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Old 06-28-2015, 04:35 PM   #15
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If you can follow Scott's plan and install the shutoff valves, future filter changes should be a snap. I haven't done that yet. Here's what I have done:


I change the water separator filter first, then crank the engine and run it for a few minutes. Sometimes it gets to running a little rough for a few seconds, but it has always run. Then I shut it off and change the secondary filter (on the engine itself). Then I use the primer pump until I can't pump any more. This has always worked for me; I don't fill the filters before installing. I'm sure that if you do, and you follow the advice to fill thru the small holes, it will work fine. I'm just too shaky to hold a filled filter steady and get it started back on the mount on the engine.
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:44 PM   #16
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Lastly, I would NEVER install an oil filter, as large as these engines take, dry. My Cummins filter holds just shy of a gallon. Do you really want to run your engine while you're waiting for a gallon of oil to fill the filter????

Yep,
Been pre-filling all my oil filters on all my engines for ever too. I don't fill them using the small holes, It would take about a week to do it. Besides, the oil, out of brand new container, is pretty darn sparkling clear and clean. And, none of my engines has blown up yet, from prefilling any filter.
Scott
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:00 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the input and suggestions. After reading all the responses I bit the bullet and took her in this morning to Freightliner. The SO CALLED "express lube" took from 0650 (am) until 1130 (am). It cost me $199.06. AS I was paying they informed me that there is an exhaust leak at the Turbo. They said they could get to that on Weds to determine what it will take to fix it, but in the mean time it won't hurt to drive it 1900 miles round trip to Calif and back to SLC, UT. I went out back to pick her up to head home, but being me I checked the fuel filters to make sure they were new ones. Both of my old ones were dated. The fuel filter/water separator was new. I then put the bdrm slide out and looked at the other fuel filter that has the hand pump with it. Yep, it was the old filter. I looked over the paper work and it had both filter numbers on it, but at the bottom I was only charged for fuel/water one. Went back in and told them that they didn't change out one. Pulled the MH around front and actually showed the guy where it was. 2 and 1/2 hours later they had her done. The plus side to all this is that the experienced lube guy told me that they do prime the filters. They all felt so bad on the newbie not changing out the fuel filter, they didn't charge me for it.


Now I'm looking for a shop to check out the exhaust leak at the Turbo, don't want Freightliner to do it.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:46 PM   #18
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Joe....do you have access in the bedroom above the engine? If so, the turbo is usually right under it. It might be a broken or lose hose. Usually the leak is obvious....black soot emanating from the leak. The clamps are not just hose clamps, but specifically made for use with the turbo. If it looks bad or lose and you can reach it, I would buy one and then try to tighten it. If it breaks, you'll have a new one available.

If it;s not a clamp, it would be nice to know what it is or where it's coming from before taking it in and getting soaked for a diagnosis charge.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:16 PM   #19
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joe,
A while ago, I had to remove part of my exhaust system, just south of the turbo 'cause I had to re-wrap it with some of that fiberglass exhaust wrap stuff. Well, in an effort to remove one of the clamps that held that part of the exhaust to the EXHAUST BRAKE, which, is just down stream of the turbo, the bolt on that EXPENSIVE clamp BROKE

So, long story short, I welded a new section of bolt onto that clamp and, re-used the clamp. But, anyways, during my posts and subsequent answers to it, a poster put a picture of the system involved. And, in fact it's a Cummins, where as mine is a CAT. Anyway, this is the region yours might be leaking.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:48 PM   #20
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Thanks Don and Scott. I checked from the exhaust back to the Turbo. I found that each clamp had black soot where the pipes were connected. Looks like I've got a few places where it may be leaking. A friend suggested that I fire her up, flip on the exhaust brake and spray soapy water around to pinpoint the leak/leaks. Tomorrow I'll post a picture of where the soot seems the heaviest. It looks like a clamp but I couldn't see any bolts.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:27 PM   #21
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Found it, just before the Exhaust brake. It was so loose I could turn it around enough to locate the nut to see if it can be tightened. If not I'll get the next size down. Love this forum, I'll buy drinks if we run into each other on down the road. Cheaper the Freightliner for sure and it didn't take me most of the day to find it. Oh, it's the clamp before the clamp by the exhaust brake. This is a CAT300 3126B
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtjoe View Post
Found it, just before the Exhaust brake. It was so loose I could turn it around enough to locate the nut to see if it can be tightened. If not I'll get the next size down. Love this forum, I'll buy drinks if we run into each other on down the road. Cheaper the Freightliner for sure and it didn't take me most of the day to find it. Oh, it's the clamp before the clamp by the exhaust brake. This is a CAT300 3126B
sgtjoe,
You're certainly welcome. We're all here to help if and when we can. As for the suggestion to operate the "Exhaust brake" while it's idling, I'm not sure it will work. If it does, that's a new one on me. I'm presupposing that you need a certain amount of speed to make that system work. Otherwise you could shut down that exhaust at idle and that would not be a good thing. Maybe it does, heck, I don't know.

Now, as for tightening your band clamp. Get ready to buy a new one. They're NOT CHEAP! Mine was going to cost me around $22.00 or so, if I recall. And, one more thing, they're not common. You'll have to call around to maybe truck repair shops etc. Most auto parts stores give you the crooked puppy head look when you ask for a "V-band Clamp".

Now, you may try and spay your favorite penetrating oil in and or around that nut on the clamps bolt way ahead of time, as in days, to see if it helps in allowing you to tighten it up. It should not be at the end of the threads. You should, if it's not frozen, be allowed to continue to tighten it up some, just enough to cinch the two exhaust sections together tighter. If it's frozen, there's about a 98% chance you're going to break the bolt. That's exactly what happened to me, when I tried to loosen it, to remove that section of pipe, so I could re-wrap it, on the work bench.

That "T-bolt" broke. CRAP! So, me being me, I simply purchased the correct length bolt, cut off the un-needed head and shank length and, welded it to the tip of the broken T-bolt in the clamp. Worked like a charm when I re-installed the clamp.

But, even if you do break it, and need a new one, or, you think you're at the end of the threads, (which like stated, you shouldn't be) don't get the next sized smaller, it won't fit. Get the same exact one and, if you have to, (which you shouldn't need to) you can add a couple of washers to take up thread length so the nut doesn't run out of threads before the clamp is tight and has done its job. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:39 PM   #23
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I fill my fuel filter with ATF a old diesel guy told me that have never had a problem.
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:29 PM   #24
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Definitely pre-fill the filters

Just replaced both the primary fuel / water separator fuel filter and secondary fuel filter on my Cat C-10. The factory service manual recommended not putting any fuel in the filters due to concerns about dirty fuel getting into the filters but when I talked with the Cat service people (the number is available on the Cat website) they were adamant about filling the filters with clean, fresh fuel before installing the new filters. I took their advice, replace the filters and pumped the secondary filter priming pump with a couple of strokes to top it off. Motor started right up with no fuss, no muss.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:55 PM   #25
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I've always primed my fuel and oil filters on every diesel I've ever owned and that's a bunch. I've always primed my fuel filters with automatic transmission fluid.
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