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Old 08-24-2014, 04:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deandec View Post
I installed a Dinosaur CB on our 1995 Dometic side by side. That has fixed it for about 10 years now. Easy fix for DIY.
I will do the trouble shot and clean first, right after sending the valve body to the transmission in the dragster off on Monday
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:21 AM   #16
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So I had some interruptions but did start working on the refrigerator this afternoon. Had the manual with me Service manual for RM7030 and RM7732

(Note, this PDF is tied to a web site and is a pain in the neck to try and read on the computer, I printed it out so it does not keep asking me if it is ok to go to that web site)

Page 4 trouble shouting item 5 No Gas operation / operates on AC It wants you to go to section 6 LP gas which is missing from the manual, so .... I went on my own and this is as far as I got.

This is the outside cover.



Note the edges, it appears the whole cover has been removed at some point.

See that paint around the perimeter has been cracked.



The access bolts were turned 1/4 turn and the center cover was removed



The bolts that hold the wind guard plate in place were not accessible.

I removed the three screws across the top, popped of the covers of the screws on the side and removed those screws, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the outside access cover.

The outside frame had been glued in place so I used a box cutter to cut the silicone that had it glued in place and carefully pulled the outside frame off. It was not easy.

What you see hanging from the opening is the silicone that was in between the back of the outside frame and the side of the Motor Home.



There was also a very thick layer of silicone between the base plate of the refrigeration unit and the outside wall of the motor home. I pulled this out as well. I will clean the steel frame , paint and reseal when I put the unit back together.



Note, the chassis, motor home batteries were shut off, the motor home shore cord was not plugged in and the generator was not running, the gas valve was shut off.



So now the access cover has been removed, the outside frame has been removed, all the silicone has been scraped an removed, now we can get to the screws holding the wind guard in place.



Wind guard has been removed, we can now see the flue, the gas solenoid, the electric heater (in my case there are two electric heaters)





The paper tag says not to try and remove any nuts without using a back up wrench, see below.

The cover on the burner is just snapped into place and is easy to remove.



The electrode is held in place by one screw and is also easy to remove, pretty dirty.





Time to remove the entire burner unit and to do so the gas line needs to be separated, note the back up wrench used to keep from twisting the gas line.



Here is the burner unit removed, not really all that dirty.



Now I can get a close look at the thermalcouple. The end was burnt right off.





Here is a shot looking right at the end of the thermal couple, look close, it is in the center of the picture and the only thing in focus.



I'm not sure this is the problem , the symptom I should have with this is the unit should fire up, and then when the board does not see the thermocouple signal it should shut down. What I get is the unit gives me the check light, and if I retry several times it will then work.

It does need to be replaced so I called Dometic, they need the unit number, serial number, and model number.... 921 1480-08, 61900342, RM7732, they supplied the part number 2931826024, price was $50.00 with a minim shipping cost of $25.00.

I did find one e-bay, a part labeled as 2931826016MC for $26.00 but I believe in name brand parts so the Dometic part is on the way (it was in stock and will be here in two days, by normal UPS)

It was suggested that by dougrainer (one of those Service Center Techs), that I check the control module.



He said to Look at the epoxy that the resistor and such are mounted in. IF the Epoxy is Yellow/Beige, REPLACE the control module. Dometic had bad modules 20 years ago and the symptom was intermittent check light and no fire on LP. If the epoxy is greenish, then your module is current.

I did not find any epoxy, this is what the board looked like.



This is as far as I got, tomorrow I will clean up the parts I have removed and see if I can get the unit to fire.

More to come
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:04 AM   #17
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Nice job Glenn. A little logic will allow a LOT of troubleshooting...
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:42 PM   #18
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"Page 4 trouble shouting item 5 No Gas operation / operates on AC It wants you to go to section 6 LP gas which is missing from the manual, so .... I went on my own and this is as far as I got."
Glenn,
Viewing the PDF on my tablet troubleshooting item #5 No Gas Operation/Operates on AC is on page #1. Section 6 LP Gas Requirements starts on page 18. On page 19 LP Gas Components, that section describes the gas componets. At the top of page 18 it has an illustration of the how the igniter should be assembled and what the correct gap needs to be. The spark gap must be 3/16" for the igniter to work correctly. Hope that helps.

Chuck
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:01 AM   #19
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I haven't forgotten to update this thread, I'm still waiting on the thermocouple to come to put this back together
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:07 PM   #20
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Thanks Glenn,
Was wondering how the troubleshooting was going.

Chuck
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #21
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So...I have a race this weekend so I wanted to get a jump on putting the refrigerator back together.

Here is the burner and igniter as they were removed.



I took everything apart and soaked the pieces in alcohol, good thing I have a blown mechanically injected alcohol burning front engine dragster.



I examined the orifice carefully for obstructions. Do not try and pock something through the hole in the nozzle, look carefully at this photo there is a clear (maybe mica) washer in the end of the nozzle)



There is a very small hole in that washer.

If you look at the nozzle from the other end against a light the hole looks quite large, it is temping to try and find something that size and clean the inside of the nozzle, DON'T DO IT



So after soaking everything, I used a scotch bright pad to go over all the pieces and reassembled the burner. By that way this dumb thing is put together with metric nuts and bolts.



I cleaned the end of the igniter with some emery paper and adjusted the igniter gap to 3/16 of an inch.



I ran a vacuum cleaner over the whole inside of the case, tapped gently on the chimney until no more rust pieces fell out.



The Thermocouple still has not arrived yet, but as it is not that much work I put the burner back into the refrigerator. I also cleaned the ground to the spark coil. I fired the unit up and it started the first time.



I had been concerned that there was no drip tube to catch the condensation from the coil inside the refrigerator, turns out America Dream had a better idea than hanging it out through the cover, there is an internal drain, note the yellow tubing.



So...I will stop here and wait for the new thermocouple to arrive, install it, clean the frame, apply new silicone, and put the cover back on.

Next will the hot water heater, as it is also temperamental, some times it will not fire either and we have to use the electric heater in the hot water heater, which means running the generator and it takes a long time to heat up.

I'm cleaning up the outside frame and the more I clean the more it appears the frame was not originally sealed with silicone, but a material more like plumbers
putty. Any thoughts?

Any advice on cleaning and adjustment of the burner in the hot water heater, How do you adjust the mixture of gas and air on the burner?
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:18 PM   #22
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Good job Glenn.
The stuff that looks like plumber's putty is most likely butyl rubber tape, available at any rv supply store.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #23
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I have two problems now with the refrigerator.

1) The thermocouple arrived from Dometic.



The invoice has the correct serial number, model number and product code on the invoice.

The thermocouple however is way to long.



The one in the burner is only as long as the black anodized tube on the new one. The tube ends there on the original one and the wires make a 90 degree turn and run in back off the gas solenoid. The new one will not fit as the copper tube would need to run right through the gas solenoid.

I have called Dometic, they are sending a second one at no charge, and they think it is bagged incorrectly. I looked one up on fee-bay and it looks like the one that Dometic sent me.



2) I have the dreaded extra parts left over. I do not understand it. I took pictures the whole time, I was very careful, but I have this bracket and screw left over.

On the bracket the screw fits like it should be in the hole, there is only one hole, and it is not threaded.

The underside is sort of clean like it was up against something. The bracket shows no sign that the screw was ever installed in the bracket (no clean areas or scratch marks).

The screw is a machine screw, not a sheet metal screw.

I have reviewed all the pictures I took while taking the unit apart, I have taken the unit apart twice now and can find no place where this would have gone.

It does look like there should have been a bracket on the end of the burner to hold the thermocouple in place but there wasn't one when I took the unit apart. This bracket will not fit in that location.







HELP!!!!!
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:01 PM   #24
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Does your manual give you an exploded diagram for this component?
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:32 PM   #25
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Does your manual give you an exploded diagram for this component?

No sir.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:15 PM   #26
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Many times a hole in a piece of metal like that, is discolored enough to tell if there ever was a screw through it, and which side of it the head was on? Can't see it in these pics, but maybe you can in person? That may give you a hint on how to proceed?
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:03 PM   #27
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Ok....so....with the last update I left everyone hanging on the edge of their seats with this problem with the extra bracket and screw.

I would like to say that I have the perfect solution to the answer but I do not, I do have a partial solution.

enblethen provided a parts break out of the refrigerator. Atwood Water Heater manual

Below is pictured the important page.



1)It shows the "short" thermocouple I need, and the reason why (the long one will hit the gas solenoid).

The problem is the part number associated with the short thermocouple is the part number on the long one I have received. I just hope the new one that is coming is the correct one and the first one was bagged incorrectly. My thinking is it will be the same and the part has been superseded. The only good part of this is the old thermocouple is working just fine.

2) In the parts break out there is the angle bracket and screw that I had left over (it is circled in red, in the diagram above).

The perplexing thing is the bracket I have left over does not fit in that spot, and the machine screw does not go into the hole on the burner.



So I made some modifications to the bracket, I drilled a new hole and created a slot for the wires on the thermocouple to come through.





So here you see the burner apart for the fifth time, you can see the screw hole is offset from the thermocouple, and the collar on the thermocouple. The new hole in the bracket lines up with the original hole in the burner, and a new stainless steal screw has been found that fits the hole, and the new slot in the bracket fits over the thermocouple, but not the anodized collar on the thermocouple, so the thermocouple is now retained in the burner.



Old bracket in the new configuration screwed in place.





This new configuration was tested this weekend and worked.
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:31 PM   #28
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Good news Glenn. Your process helped everyone learn more about their refrigerator. Thanks for the update.

Chuck
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