Problems Dometic Elite dual fuel (electric/LP) refrigerator Freezer RM7732

[GlennLever]

We have a Dometic Elite dual fuel (electric / LP) side by side refrigerator Freezer in our 1997 American Dream, Model RM7732.

It works great on electric but has been reluctant to start on LP. Once started it runs fine. (LP detector is on in the coach)

It usually takes several attempts to start it on LP. By this I mean you turn it on and after a short period of time the check light comes on.

When you start it you can hear a solenoid click, but never hear the LP fire up. When you check out side you can smell LP.

Once it does fire it runs fine for the whole weekend.

I have given up on RV service centers as they do not seem to repair things correctly.

The chimney is clean, I believe it is a problem with the igniter.

Is there someone that can walk me through a check out procedure to identify the failed component?

I am handy, have tools and multimeter.

[GlennLever]

Just found this, Service manual for RM7030 and RM7732

[BluBounder]

We have the same refrigerator in our 2005 Bounder and had exactly the same problem. I had the local RV service shop do a tune-up for about $99 and it works perfectly now. I think the igniter gets out of whack and a good cleaning and adjustment gets things going. Most RV shops have a flat rate for propane appliance service.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by BluBounder

We have the same refrigerator in our 2005 Bounder and had exactly the same problem. I had the local RV service shop do a tune-up for about $99 and it works perfectly now. I think the igniter gets out of whack and a good cleaning and adjustment gets things going. Most RV shops have a flat rate for propane appliance service.

I have come to the conclusion that I will avoid going to an RV center unless I absolutely have no choice. My feeling is the techs have no more knowledge that I do with the help of these forums.

[mus289]

GlennLever, I am with you 100% regarding the fact that the RV "Service Techs" that I have seen since venturing into the RV world are often severely lacking in the practical knowledge department!
The ones who can truly diagnose problems are few and far between. Many just suggest swapping out parts hoping to hit the right thing.
I had problems with my RV Frig last summer and stumbled across a RV Frig repair guy who has a number of Youtube videos out to walk you through how RV Frigs work and the most common problems. If you have some time on your hands and like me are a Do-it-yourselfer, take the time to check them out. I was able to diagnose a bad computer board on a Norcold after watching his testing procedures and once I replaced it the frig ran like new. Company is called Fords RV Refrigeration. You can search them in Youtube with "FRVTS" or use this link to get to the first video they did explaining basics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIJYx5j2nPQ

It's quite an education! Power to the DIY'ers!

[chboone]

Haven't viewed any of the videos so not sure if this is covered. When the burner is trying to light you should hear the clicking of the igniter arc. If you don't the gap may be to wide. You can try to adjust the tip of the igniter slighter closer. Just be careful not to crack the ceramic insulator. Also remove the wire of the ignitor from the control module to make sure there is no corrosion on the contact area.
BTW, thank you for the service manual we have the same model in our Dolphin.
Chuck

[ahicks]

I can offer just one thing. If the coach hasn't been used in a while, light the stove first. Many times taking a minute to do that will bleed the LPG lines enough where your auto ignition devices are much easier to light the first time around.

[chili's trip]

Similar problem caused by a poor connection to the thermocouple located in the burner flame. Senses if burner lights and if not, shuts gas off. The wire will separate easier than you may think. Good luck.
Jack H

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by chboone

Haven't viewed any of the videos so not sure if this is covered. When the burner is trying to light you should hear the clicking of the igniter arc. If you don't the gap may be to wide. You can try to adjust the tip of the igniter slighter closer. Just be careful not to crack the ceramic insulator. Also remove the wire of the ignitor from the control module to make sure there is no corrosion on the contact area.
BTW, thank you for the service manual we have the same model in our Dolphin.
Chuck

I watched a bunch of the videos. Up to about number 6, none of them covered the LP burner or service.

Got impatient and started looking around to find one that discussed cleaning the burn and found very few.

I did find this one that identified the components and now feel I can work my way through it.

RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting - YouTube

I do not hear the clicking, so do not think I have the spark. I will try cleaning the whole burner on Monday. I will take pictures and post.

Originally Posted by ahicks

I can offer just one thing. If the coach hasn't been used in a while, light the stove first. Many times taking a minute to do that will bleed the LPG lines enough where your auto ignition devices are much easier to light the first time around.

I had the LP mode running in the hot water heater the whole time.

Originally Posted by chili's trip

Similar problem caused by a poor connection to the thermocouple located in the burner flame. Senses if burner lights and if not, shuts gas off. The wire will separate easier than you may think. Good luck.
Jack H

I do not think I have flame, I do not hear the clicking of the igniter.

[chboone]

Glenn,
The manual you posted has excellent testing procedures for the igniter and control board.

Chuck

[tricotec]

I had the exact same problem in my old coach with the same refrigerator. We had a mobile RV tech come out who had fixed hundreds of these things. He replaced the control board and put a new ignitor (looks like a small sparkplug) in and the unit worked perfectly after that. He did try a new ignitor before putting in a new board too. The price for the repair did include a service charge for the trip. However I believe I probably saved money in the long run and got a superior repair. The repair was made a bit more expensive due to the original board being obsolete. He had to retrofit a newer board, but this would have been required anywhere.

I think the mobile guys are much superior in general to the RV dealerships/service centers. Usually the guy is in business for himself so he cares about his business as opposed to the young "technicians" RV dealerships hire. Also with the internet these guys cannot get away with cheating people for long before the reviews catch up with them.

[chboone]

If there is a problem with the board and it's obsolete you should be able to find one here.
Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.
Edit, Read on Dinosaur boards web site they don't not sell direct to the public, have go through one of their distributors

Chuck

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by chboone

Glenn,
The manual you posted has excellent testing procedures for the igniter and control board.

Chuck

I have printed the manual out and will have it by my side on Monday.

[deandec]

I installed a Dinosaur CB on our 1995 Dometic side by side. That has fixed it for about 10 years now. Easy fix for DIY.