Progressive Industries EMSLCHW50 Surge Protector

[SMRDNR]

after much reading I have decided to add the PI EMSLCHW50 Surge Protector - the hard wired model. has anyone installed this and was it difficult? ( I wired the addition at our house so I feel comfortable with electrical work) even though the RV is winterized I'm going to add it this year. I can always remove should we decide to move to another MH.

I'm going for the one without the remote display as it will be a challenge to get the wire to the inside and the only location would be in the bedroom on the slide- if this is an option that I should get let me know and why.

thanks-- Steve
Amazon.com: Progressive Industries EMSLCHW50 Surge Protector: Automotive

[luvlabs]

Good choice. It is easy to wire - just cut your incoming power cord and wire the PI unit between your incoming power and your transfer switch. The wiring you are working with is heavy, stiff, and hard to work with but other than that, just follow the directions that came with your unit.

[Route 66]

I installed the similar model with the remote display as I wanted to be able to see what was going on without going out to the RV's power bay.

I ran the display wire up next to a bath vent pipe and put the display in the toilet room.

You wouldn't want the display in the bed room as it is bright.

Installation was not a problem except working with the #6 stranded wire which was like wrestling an anaconda. It seemed to fight back.

PI recommends installing the unit before the transfer switch to protect it. They state that the generator doesn't need protection as they rarely cause a problem.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by SMRDNR

after much reading I have decided to add the PI EMSLCHW50 Surge Protector - the hard wired model. has anyone installed this and was it difficult? ( I wired the addition at our house so I feel comfortable with electrical work) even though the RV is winterized I'm going to add it this year. I can always remove should we decide to move to another MH.

I'm going for the one without the remote display as it will be a challenge to get the wire to the inside and the only location would be in the bedroom on the slide- if this is an option that I should get let me know and why.

thanks-- Steve
Amazon.com: Progressive Industries EMSLCHW50 Surge Protector: Automotive

I went with the top of the line

EMS-HW50C

This provides much more than just surge protection. Check out the details. It has the remote monitor but it can be installed in the compartment with the unit.

Here it is on on Amazon.com, just a few dollars more.

Amazon.com: Progressive Industries HW50C 50 Amp Hardwired Electrical Management System with Remote Display: Automotive

There are complete instruction on the installment.

[MDPD]

I have had this model for about 7 years and moved it twice to different units. It is very simple to install, just follow the instructions. I do not have the remote model as it was not available when I purchased mine. I think it would be nice to have the remote but unnecessary especially if you mount the unit where it was easily visible inside the bay. One of the first things I do when arriving is plug in the power. After the unit goes through it's check, you will hear a loud click when the relay connects the power to the motorhome. A quick look into the power bay and you will see the volts, hertz, and amps being drawn.

On several occasions over the past several years Progressive has saved me by detecting voltage issues and open grounds in campground power. Wouldn't be without it.

[Old Scout]

Agree with installing protector on the shore power side only vs after the transfer box--gensets are prettty stable and if something should go wrong with the protector side, you still have the genset power. Rather than cut the rv cable, I suggest going to Home Depot [where ever] and get a short piece of 50x4 amp cable. Regular 50 amp cable is easier to work with/ clamp in the lugs than the multi-strand RV cable. If you cut the existing RV cable and have a cable reel, you may need to adjust the rv cable coming from/thru the reel--not fun....
PS this is also a good time to check/tighten all the lug connections in your 50 amp feeds from both shore power and genset to your breaker boxes [eg the transfer and any junction boxes].

[Dr4Film]

Excellent choice and one of the BEST units that you will EVER find in the industry.

It also comes with outstanding customer service and a lifetime warranty on the unit NOT the owner. If someone were to buy your RV, the warranty is still good.

When you go to install the EMS, make sure you position the unit so you can read the display without being a contortionist.

I chose the remote display and bought the additional A/B switch with another display so that I would have one in my service bay and one in the OH cabinet in the bedroom.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[Dennis4809]

The remote monitor is pretty useful. I mounted the HWC-50 just prior to the transfer switch. It's not visible normally so the remote allows me to see voltage and current draw on both legs. I mounted mine on the side do the bed, visible from the front of the coach. Can't read it from that distance but can see if the power is on/off. Closer I can read everything including any faults.

[wigginsjsr]

I don't agree that generators don't have voltage problems. In fact, one of the things that fails most often on generators is the voltage regulator. There are several postings on this and other forums where generator failure has put very high voltage into the coach with substantial damage to electronics.

The transfer switch is a fairly inexpensive item to replace compared to damaged electronics in the coach. I always install my Progressive after the transfer switch in order to provide protection for both power sources. If the Progressive unit should ever fail, it has a bypass that only requires flipping a switch; so, there is no reason the generator cannot be used.

The biggest problem with installing after the transfer switch is that the transfer switch is not easily accessed in many MH. If you are going to the expense and work to make this installation, why not get all the protection available?

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by Dennis4809

The remote monitor is pretty useful. I mounted the HWC-50 just prior to the transfer switch. It's not visible normally so the remote allows me to see voltage and current draw on both legs. I mounted mine on the side do the bed, visible from the front of the coach. Can't read it from that distance but can see if the power is on/off. Closer I can read everything including any faults.

I have the remote mounted in the kitchen right next to my battery monitor and I find it kind of irritating as it goes through it sequence of checks L!, 120v, Xamps, L2, etc. I kinda wish it would dim a bit or only come on when there is an error, but hey, it's good the protection is there.

[Sky_Boss]

Had it in my Winnebago with remote read out all I can say is

Might replace my current DSDP Surge Guard with it in the future because I miss the remote read out.

Consider installing it with plug ends. and put a plug at the RV end of your shore power cord. If for some reason the unit goes belly up you can consider a couple options.

1. Carry a portable version as a back up and connect it to the plug.
2. Direct connect from shore power to coach via the plug.

If you do have to replace it, then the next time around you only need to add plugs and go.

BTW...that kind of installation puts it before the ATS.

[SMRDNR]

Originally Posted by adonh

I went with the top of the line

EMS-HW50C

This provides much more than just surge protection. Check out the details. It has the remote monitor but it can be installed in the compartment with the unit.

Here it is on on Amazon.com, just a few dollars more.

Amazon.com: Progressive Industries HW50C 50 Amp Hardwired Electrical Management System with Remote Display: Automotive

There are complete instruction on the installment.

the one I'm looking to get is the same as yours except it doesn't include the remote monitor

thanks

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by wigginsjsr

I don't agree that generators don't have voltage problems. In fact, one of the things that fails most often on generators is the voltage regulator. There are several postings on this and other forums where generator failure has put very high voltage into the coach with substantial damage to electronics.

The transfer switch is a fairly inexpensive item to replace compared to damaged electronics in the coach. I always install my Progressive after the transfer switch in order to provide protection for both power sources. If the Progressive unit should ever fail, it has a bypass that only requires flipping a switch; so, there is no reason the generator cannot be used.

The biggest problem with installing after the transfer switch is that the transfer switch is not easily accessed in many MH. If you are going to the expense and work to make this installation, why not get all the protection available?

Yes, you are correct with your statement that there are generators that can go haywire and cause a lot of damage to RV electrical systems and internal electronics.

However, if one owns any of the Onan QD diesel generators, they have built-in safety systems to protect the coach from the generator going haywire and damaging their electrical systems.

I chose to wire the EMS before the transfer switch as my coach does have an Onan generator.

For those that don't own those types of generators than you are wise to wire the EMS after the transfer switch.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[rvgreg]

I have the HW50C mounted before the transfer switch. I have the remote mounted above my existing chassis control panel. I find the display very useful as I can see the current draw on both AC legs and basically tell when the refrigerator heater or hot water heater comes on. It gives me a baseline for every AC appliance so I can tell if something is going wrong - for example if an A/C compressor starts drawing more than normal current, I will have a warning. You can also see if a power failure occurred when you were out or asleep. The only problem I had was I needed a longer remote display cable than that supplied. I called the company and they told me what to buy. It looks like a telephone cable but don't just use any phone cable - I seem to remember standard phone cables swap two wires but the PI required cable does not. Mine has worked well for 2 years now.