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Old 10-17-2018, 05:27 PM   #1
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Propane heater install

We will be boondocking around Az after Christmas and want to install a connection for a propane heater of the Mr Buddy type.
How have you set up the connection (quick disconnect and shut off valve) to be easily accessible and out of the way.
The 3/8 gas line behind the drawers and below the stove is where I will install a tee to tie the new line in.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-17-2018, 05:38 PM   #2
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Just curious, why not just use the forced air LP furnace most all RVs have already? It doesn't use inside air for combustion and would be much safer than a "Mr. Buddy type" that can ignite anything near it and also has to depend on an oxygen depletion sensor to keep from asphyxiating your family inside the small area of an RV?
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:02 PM   #3
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I installed a line with a shutoff valve and quick disconnect in one of my storage compartments for a BBQ. I ran the line directly to the propane manifold. You could install a T then a shut off valve and use a flexible propane hose with a quick disconnect. To store the hose you could coil it up and store it under the bottom drawer. To use the hose , you could cut a small notch under the drawer for the line to go through .
Personally I would not use that type of heater inside a RV. They produce carbon monoxide as well as producing a lot of moisture.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Just curious, why not just use the forced air LP furnace most all RVs have already? It doesn't use inside air for combustion and would be much safer than a "Mr. Buddy type" that can ignite anything near it and also has to depend on an oxygen depletion sensor to keep from asphyxiating your family inside the small area of an RV?

He's boondocking. When the temperature is in the 30's, the furnace will deplete four 6 volt batteries overnight.


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Old 10-17-2018, 06:23 PM   #5
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Using that heater is debatable, but if you do, I wouldn't use a " Quick Connect " fitting inside the RV.

Find a way to get the hose outside and " quick connect " it there. If it leaks, the gas, heavier then air, will fall away and disperse.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:25 PM   #6
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He's boondocking. When the temperature is in the 30's, the furnace will deplete four 6 volt batteries overnight.


Joel


Well I wouldnít go quite that far. Two 12ís maybe. Four 6ís. Probably not over night at 30f.

We have winter camped a lot in AK for the past 15 years. Two 12ís will last all night at 30f.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #7
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He's boondocking. When the temperature is in the 30's, the furnace will deplete four 6 volt batteries overnight.


Joel
Must be some new kind of furnace. My LP forced air furnace can run all night on two 12v deep cycle batteries without depleting the batteries. In the morning I still have enough battery to start the generator. Since all combustion is exhausted out the pipe, all moisture and CO is not added to the interior air. No oxygen depleted by the burning flame, no possibility of a coupling leaking into the interior. In an RV over 30 ft long, where do you place Mr. Buddy to heat the whole space?
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:59 PM   #8
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I use 2 CAMCO Olympian catalytic wave heaters ( one 6000 BTU and the other one is 8000 BTU ) to heat our 32 for class A when boondocking. The heaters have legs so they are freestanding wherever you put them. One in the front and the other in the bedroom. They are attached to 12 foot gas hoses with quick connects with shutoff valves ( all certified for use with propane ) that go to two T fittings under the counter as you show in your picture. The hoses are stored under the counter when not in use. The heaters usually travel in the shower. The catalytic heaters put out CO2 and water. The water can condense on the windows, so you have to wipe them off with a towel before you drive off in the morning. I leave one or two windows open an inch or so for ventilation as describe in the directions with the heaters. Depending on how cold it is ( if its in the twenties ) we may have to supplement the heaters with the RV furnace set at 50 degrees.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:52 AM   #9
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The furnaces in the coach are maybe 20% efficient when this type is 99%.
When temps are in the 30ís we just keep the chill off with heat. Last winter we saw temps down to 14* and then had to use rear furnace to heat the wet bay.
We have 4 fla batts and are installing a 2000 watt inverter to make boon docking more convenient will be adding around 500 watts of solar in the spring.
I donít intend for the budget hit of running the inefficient furnace more than necessary. We have 2 co detectors, 1 propane detector and the unit will have a low O2 detector, that along with keeping a window or 2 cracked will cover the safety side of things.
The rv is super insulated. We only ran a small electric heater in the kitchen last year when it got into the 30ís at night and it was fine. I personally hate sleeping in the heat so we only use the back furnace if I am concerned about the wet bay.
The type of heater I am referring to puts out virtually no co2, but can deplete o2 therefore you have to crack a window or 2.
Does anyone that has done this have pics of your install?
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:03 AM   #10
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On a previous coach I Tee'd near the propane tank and and after the regulator, then brought a hose through a hole in the floor into the living area. Shut off valve just after the Tee and quick connect to the heater.

A good down comforter on the bed makes a bug difference.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:27 AM   #11
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There are quick disconnects designed for propane systems. They are about 5 times the cost of normal disconnects, but they seal almost completely. The only thing that is 100% is Death.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:28 AM   #12
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Duplicate post.
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Old 10-18-2018, 12:15 PM   #13
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We did this many years ago in our Ole Toyhouse (Toyota Dolphin)..

I installed a "T" in the propane line that feeds the stove. I placed a valve in the line so I could shut off gas to the heater and used a 10ft flex hose that had a quick disconnect on the end to connect to a Mr Buddy.

The Mr Buddy has an internal regulator. I removed that regulator and installed a male quick disconnect fitting on the back of the Mr Buddy.

This worked GREAT for many years. When we upgraded to a 2001 Mirada, I moved the modified plumbing over to it and we used it in the Mirada.

USE

Position the heater in a clear area and make sure nothing can fall on it, towels, cushions, cloths, etc. I would crack one of the roof vents open about an inch to allow venting of fumes. Our Toyhouse and the Mirada were not very air tight, so I don't worry about fresh air supply.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:12 PM   #14
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Must be some new kind of furnace. My LP forced air furnace can run all night on two 12v deep cycle batteries without depleting the batteries. In the morning I still have enough battery to start the generator. Since all combustion is exhausted out the pipe, all moisture and CO is not added to the interior air. No oxygen depleted by the burning flame, no possibility of a coupling leaking into the interior. In an RV over 30 ft long, where do you place Mr. Buddy to heat the whole space?
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