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Old 07-21-2017, 06:22 PM   #1
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pulling a trailer with a class A

I am in the market for an enclosed trailer to haul my car in I am going to pull it behind my 38' class A. I am told I need an extended tongue. (60'') . A dealer said that was not necessary and that a 48" would work just fine. I realize dealers are there to make sales, but I think I need to stick to my guns on the 60" tongue.
I am also torn between a V nose or flat nose. The V would give me extra room for my tool boxes etc.
I have searched the web and there is very little if any information on this subject.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:28 PM   #2
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as long as your Coach can turn freely, it shouldn't matter WHICH you choose...

the receiver is right below the tail end of the coach, so neither should be a problem, though it would seem that a Vnose would allow a little more wiggle room if in a very hard turn.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:33 PM   #3
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I've been towing a 26ft enclosed race trailer with my older Bird the last 17 yrs. 9700 lbs loaded and hardly know its there on the Flats.
I have the extended tongue which provides additional turning radius and use the WD Hitch set up .
I don't see the advantage of a V- Nose at all, except for loss of space in the Trailer. Before the Hitch and Weight Police arrive on here-- I've had no issues at All!
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:35 PM   #4
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you go CHUCK!

by the way, if you've been to Alaska, you'll see ANYTHING and EVERYTHING and will never ask again what you 'can' do.... it's been done!
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:49 PM   #5
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Go to a lumber supply and buy a strip of wood 1" X 2" X 8' long. cut it in half and fasten the end of one piece to an end of the other piece forming a 90* angle. Then hold one open end on the hitch ball and swing the 90* around till it hits the back of the motorhome. That's how far you will be able to turn with a 48" tongue before the trailer would hit the coach if it was on level ground. On uneven ground, it would be less. Then slide the hitch end 12" away from the ball and see what a 60" tongue would do. Might surprize you. You could get by with a 4' tongue if you were very careful, but a 54" or 60" tongue makes a big difference.

I towed a 26' enclosed trailer with a 54" tongue loaded to 12,000# for a few years without any problems. The tapered front would give you more floor space ar allow you to tow a shorter trailer. My son just went to a 26' enclosed with a tapered nose with 7,000# axles to carry his offroad Jeep and Scion car plus a complete shop setup with welder and builtin fuel tank for the Jeep. He has a 60" tongue and a 2000# tongue weight. His coach has a 25,000# hitch so he is ok.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
Go to a lumber supply and buy a strip of wood 1" X 2" X 8' long. cut it in half and fasten the end of one piece to an end of the other piece forming a 90* angle. Then hold one open end on the hitch ball and swing the 90* around till it hits the back of the motorhome. That's how far you will be able to turn with a 48" tongue before the trailer would hit the coach if it was on level ground. On uneven ground, it would be less. Then slide the hitch end 12" away from the ball and see what a 60" tongue would do. Might surprize you. You could get by with a 4' tongue if you were very careful, but a 54" or 60" tongue makes a big difference.
Great exercise if your up to it but in my world I don't see many enclosed trailers at all without a 60in tongue!
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:00 PM   #7
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Go with the 60" tongue. I have pulled race car trailers for years and haven't had a ladder problem since I went to 60". My next trailer that I just ordered is coming with a 27 inch V nose. It is also extra tall for a more useable footprint. Extra foot high also means longer ramp door so it is better for losing your vehicle or bikes. 8.5 wide is also the best way to go. If you are dredging something down the road make sure you max your available space for the length of trailer you are buying. I have had to bunch of trailers over the last 30 years and every one I ordered is a learning experience. I hope this helps.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:20 PM   #8
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regular tongue here
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:42 PM   #9
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I recently purchased an enclosed trailer to tow my UTV in, we went with the V nose trailer, hardly any difference in cost and the V nose is added onto the inside length of the trailer so you will actually gain, not loose interior space. On my trailer the V nose added 21" of interior space over the same length of blunt nose trailer and out the door was less than 100 bucks difference. I think the V nose give more piece of mind in tight turns without additional tongue length and that extra 21" of length makes for extra storage.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:01 AM   #10
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Go with the extended hitch. I have nearly 500,000 miles pulling trailers with motor homes. A longer hitch is easier to back, and tows better.


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Old 07-22-2017, 11:40 AM   #11
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With an enclosed trailer you also need to look at the top of the trailer box for clearance when starting up a steep incline while turning. A short tongue could bring the top very close to the back of the motorhome.
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:48 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the information. I have decided to go with the extended tongue. I also noticed while shopping around there are 2 types of V nose trailers. One type extends about 3' and the other is only about 1 1/2 ft. I think I will go with the shorter V in front which will still allow ample room for a rolling tool box and shelf and still let me walk around my car. And I would not have to worry about tight tips and turns.
Now all I have to do is get ambitious and figure out how to wire up a brake controller.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:49 AM   #13
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You might get lucky with the brake controller if your motorhome is pre-wired for one, mine was and it sure made it easy.
On my last installation I used a "Hopkins 47297 INSIGHT Brake Control" which allowed me to mount the 3 components where I wanted them. Display where I can see it, hand control where I can reach it, and the main controller box out of sight.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:32 AM   #14
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Unfortunately my coach is not wired for a brake controller.The guy that had it before me has botched a lot of the wiring along with other cobble jobs throughout the unit.
I guess I cant complain I bought it cheap enough but I find I am having to rework everything under the dash and in the motor compartment.
There is not much info on the net for wiring a motorhome so if anyone has an idea of how I can wire this up it would be greatly appreciated.
I thought about getting a wireless unit but with all the expenses I have had so far I just don't want to spend another 3 to 4 hundred bux for the wireless unit. I did contact some RV dealers in the area but non of the wire up brake controllers. Oh yea they will sell you one but you are on your own from there.
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