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Old 04-14-2014, 10:54 PM   #1
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Putting tile in shower

Has anyone put tile in shower stall. I have a large crack in side wall in shower and was considering tiling it. Would like to keep lower part with seat and tile upper part. I've done several home tile jobs, concerned about the flexing of MH loosening tile.
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Old 04-15-2014, 06:45 AM   #2
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Flexing is indeed a big issue, as is weight. You might want to consider concrete backer board for the tile to provide rigidity, but that would add even more to the weight.
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:03 AM   #3
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X2. Find out how much the tile and backer board would weight. Also how much space you would loose. Is the shower fiberglass? Patches kits might be available.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:01 AM   #4
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Two issues...WEIGHT and flexing. I would not do it.

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Old 04-15-2014, 09:23 AM   #5
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Two issues...WEIGHT and flexing. I would not do it.

Ken
Same here.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:25 AM   #6
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I would. Use Dens Shield for the backing. Much lighter than cement board very flexible and can cut it with a carpet knife. Also mould proof.

Use fibre tape at the seams and in the corners to prevent cracking.

Lastly apply tile with lightweight mastic and a V-notch trowel. Use small 1x1 Mosaiq tile in 12x12 sheets. Use standard wall grout (unsanded). It will add weight but not really that much weight and the beauty is +++

Good luck!
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:35 AM   #7
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Yes it can be done and I have seen some beautiful jobs where the fiberglass stall was completely replaced by tile. The most recent was on a Winnebago Vectra.

The key is to use the Schluter System backer boards. Schluter makes water proof membrane material (comes in rolls) and also light weight backer boards with the membrane attached. The boards come in various thicknesses. You simply attach the board to the wall, use their tape in the corners and any joints, and then apply the mud directly to the membrane. The stuff is waterproof, light, and works like a charm.

Home Depot sells the membrane (as does Lowes) and I belive HD also has or can order the boards. If not, find a supplier who sells to the tile guys in your area and they usually have it.

www.schluter.com

Ceramic tile will be lighter than porcelin. I had planned to do this in my previous DP but we traded it.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
Two issues...WEIGHT and flexing. I would not do it.

Ken
Agree. It's fiberglass, most qualified body shops or fiberglass boat repair marina locations can effect a simple low cost repair.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:37 AM   #9
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Yes it can be done and I have seen some beautiful jobs where the fiberglass stall was completely replaced by tile. The most recent was on a Winnebago Vectra.

The key is to use the Schluter System backer boards. Schluter makes water proof membrane material (comes in rolls) and also light weight backer boards with the membrane attached. The boards come in various thicknesses. You simply attach the board to the wall, use their tape in the corners and any joints, and then apply the mud directly to the membrane. The stuff is waterproof, light, and works like a charm.

Home Depot sells the membrane (as does Lowes) and I belive HD also has or can order the boards. If not, find a supplier who sells to the tile guys in your area and they usually have it.

Yes x2! This is also an excellent solution to the same challenge. This stuff is great!
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:21 AM   #10
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I've used the membrane recently, its supposed to absorb the flexing and not impact grout or tile, it has worked out fine on floor. Weight isn't a big issue, they have new tile that is thinner & lighter. My son in law owns a flooring company so available products isn't an issue. Just wanted to see if anyone's done it and if it held up going down the road. Obviously higher end MH's have tile in showers, I wonder what they're using. The crack isn't leaking, silicone sealed it. Learned the hard way not to transport items in shower.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:50 AM   #11
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So assuming your shower stall is fiberglass, just repair it yourself. Fiberglass repair is not hard and you can get kits to do so. Gelcoat kits are also available and if you follow the instructions the results are great. BUT that said, in order to repair this correctly you'd need to get to the backside of the stall and that will be a bit of work i'm sure. Long run though it will be just as strong, if not stronger and will be a lot cheaper to do if that matters. And you won't be adding any weight to the rig.
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:05 PM   #12
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I guess repairing is an option, thinking of resale value, maybe trading down the road. But if I'm tearing it out I'll try the tile, cost isn't an issue I get supplies at cost.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:56 PM   #13
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Agree. It's fiberglass, most qualified body shops or fiberglass boat repair marina locations can effect a simple low cost repair.
I think you can repair with either method.

If there is an inch or two of open space behind the crack, it can be repaired without having to have complete access to the back side. You will have to expand the crack area wide enough to sand the back side then work some type of backer material coated with fiberglass cloth and resin onto the back side for strength. (use string or wire to hold it in place). After that sets, you can build up the front side. Of course, this will involve a lot of grinding, sanding, filling, etc. I recently repaired a hole in my motorhome front cap using this method. I repainted the cap to match after the repair.

My only concern with this method would be finding a final finish coat that will withstand cleaning the shower. You would probably have to put a new coat of gelcoat or a 2 part automotive paint on the entire shower surface unless you find a wizard at matching colors.


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