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Old 09-20-2018, 06:53 PM   #1
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Radiator CAC cleaning

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Old 09-20-2018, 07:07 PM   #2
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Running a bit warm..........
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:17 PM   #3
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Yep , oh hills gets up 215, 225 while towing but runs right below 195 on flat ground.
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:21 PM   #4
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You were very smart to take the time to take it apart so you can clean them properly, while out, have them pressure tested.
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Old 09-20-2018, 09:59 PM   #5
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Rad Out?

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Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
You were very smart to take the time to take it apart so you can clean them properly, while out, have them pressure tested.
How hard or easy is it to do the Radiator yourself. I have a leaky one and used stop leak. It was getting real HOT going up some hills so I improvised a misting system to mist water directly on the radiator. it works pretty well, keeps it from overheat. plus I only drive maybe 2-3 hours a day.

Anyways I would replace the radiator, water pump and thermostat to ensure a home run with the cooling system. looking at shop quotes soon, Las Vegas area
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:44 PM   #6
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How hard or easy is it to do the Radiator yourself. I have a leaky one and used stop leak. It was getting real HOT going up some hills so I improvised a misting system to mist water directly on the radiator. it works pretty well, keeps it from overheat. plus I only drive maybe 2-3 hours a day.

Anyways I would replace the radiator, water pump and thermostat to ensure a home run with the cooling system. looking at shop quotes soon, Las Vegas area
Brian,
I've pulled the Radiator and CAC on our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, twice now for various reasons. While it's not nearly as easy as a conventional truck/car/pickup etc. it's not the end of the world either. I'm just a DIY type home taught mechanic and have been doing my own work for decades. The first time I did our coach, it took me close to 6 hours 'till both were out and on a set of saw horses.

The second time, about 3.5-4 hours but, that was kind-a goofing around while doing the job. There's all kinds of variables here. Access is the main item here. My coach provides a very, very good access to the engine area from in the bedroom, for a rear radiator type coach anyways. There are some that have not nearly as nice of access. So, that will dictate what kind of time frame you're dealing with.

Contrary to popular belief, the radiator comes out SEPARATELY from the CAC. You DO NOT have to lift them out together. They are TWO SEPARATE ITEMS. If you'd like more info, PM me and I'd be glad to assist.
Scott
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Old 09-21-2018, 12:58 AM   #7
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Rad cac cleaning

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Originally Posted by Darin1960 View Post
Yep , oh hills gets up 215, 225 while towing but runs right below 195 on flat ground.
Yup, Iíve danced to that tune before.
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Old 09-21-2018, 04:06 AM   #8
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I didnt pull the rad, this is a pic I took by sticking phone in betweem fan blades.
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Old 09-21-2018, 06:22 AM   #9
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I didnt pull the rad, this is a pic I took by sticking phone in betweem fan blades.
I would like to see a photo of the CAC & Radiator surface's that are sandwiched together...........
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:51 AM   #10
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Yep me too, My plan was and is to see how clean I can get it before removal, my initial plan was just remove it and clean as mentioned on other post. I found a place on pass side of the shroud where I can access between the rad and cac , there is aproxx 3/4 to 1 inch of space and I got a decent look into there and it was remarkably clean but couldn't see all of it so when I find my little flex scope camera that I have misplaced I will give it a better look. One thing to note , is the cac has larger tubes between the fins where as the rad had small coolant tubes so when trying to run something thru to see if it infact clogged you will only be able to run thru about every other rad core tube. I did this with a plastic tie that was small enough and long enough , and went inside to take a pic so I know it went thru. I also blew some air through with a ri nozzle and even leaf blower , just to move stuff as much as possible , I am pretty sure I got this thing clean but to be sure I will inspect fully later today. Then if it is still not satisfactory , I will remove it.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianr1074 View Post
How hard or easy is it to do the Radiator yourself. I have a leaky one and used stop leak. It was getting real HOT going up some hills so I improvised a misting system to mist water directly on the radiator. it works pretty well, keeps it from overheat. plus I only drive maybe 2-3 hours a day.

Anyways I would replace the radiator, water pump and thermostat to ensure a home run with the cooling system. looking at shop quotes soon, Las Vegas area
Is that on a front engine Gas motor? If so, then the radiator should be easy to remove / replace compared to a Diesel pusher that many of the folks here are speaking of.

BTW..stop leak added? hhhmmmm, I wouldn't do that. don't add any more. When you do get the radiator fixed / replaced, flush the entire cooling system out.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Yep me too, My plan was and is to see how clean I can get it before removal, my initial plan was just remove it and clean as mentioned on other post. I found a place on pass side of the shroud where I can access between the rad and cac , there is aproxx 3/4 to 1 inch of space and I got a decent look into there and it was remarkably clean but couldn't see all of it so when I find my little flex scope camera that I have misplaced I will give it a better look. One thing to note , is the cac has larger tubes between the fins where as the rad had small coolant tubes so when trying to run something thru to see if it infact clogged you will only be able to run thru about every other rad core tube. I did this with a plastic tie that was small enough and long enough , and went inside to take a pic so I know it went thru. I also blew some air through with a ri nozzle and even leaf blower , just to move stuff as much as possible , I am pretty sure I got this thing clean but to be sure I will inspect fully later today. Then if it is still not satisfactory , I will remove it.

Darin,
Unless I missed it someplace, you don't say what make/model/year/chassis/engine you're dealing with. A lot of assumptions can be made here which, might influence an answer that applies to you and your coach. For instance, if your coach is an era '04-say, '07 plus or minus, and, you're dealing with a CAT engine, then there's been the issue of TOO much oil being added when an oil change is taking place. Too much oil will result in aeration which, results in excessive blow-by gasses being emitted from the blow-by tube.

When that happens, you get an oil mist from that tube and, due to the engine fan operation, that mist will be deposited all over at least the lower side of the CAC and the radiator fins. When that happens, that fan will also pickup tons of street debris, dust, leaves and more. When that happens, you'll have all that sticking to your cooling fins of both units. Pretty soon, there's so much clogging taking place that, the fins are found, as you see them in your pictures and mine below. NOT GOOD.

Second, again, if you have a CAT, there's been numerous threads about the issue of the blow-by tube exting the engine in an incorrect area. So, if you do have excessive blow-by, that point at which the blow-by tube is in such a place that the fan can pick up all that comes from it. So, the answer, there's a CAT kit that can be added to this tube, to extend it to a point that anything that emanates from it, will no longer do any harm or, contribute to the clogging of the fins.

Or, you can extend it yourself in all kinds of manors and with various materials. The point being, extend it to as close to the rear of the coach as possible.

The next thing and of equal importance is, make darn sure you're placing the correct amount of oil in your engine when the change is taking place.

As for you getting both of those units as clean as new, well, good luck while doing it in place. Every coach has its issues in access to those to get them clean. Some manage to do a fair job via an access hole in the top of the fan shroud that they cut. But, on mine, even though the engine can be totally seen when I disassemble the bed, the way the shroud seals EVERYTHING, there is zero ways to get mine clean while both of those are in place. So, mine come out. Your choice.
Scott


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
Is that on a front engine Gas motor? If so, then the radiator should be easy to remove / replace compared to a Diesel pusher that many of the folks here are speaking of.

BTW..stop leak added? hhhmmmm, I wouldn't do that. don't add any more. When you do get the radiator fixed / replaced, flush the entire cooling system out.
Dav L,
You're looking at the radiator and CAC "Charge air cooler" of a diesel equipped coach with a rear radiator. There is no "CAC" on a gas engine in gas coaches. As I explained above, there's reasons these radiators and CAC units get clogged, being in the position they're in, in the back of diesel coaches.
Scott

In the first pics below, that is how I found my radiator after we'd owned it for less than a year. OBVIOUSLY there had been no maintenance on it prior to our purchasing of it. I took care of that. You'll also see a brand new radiator on my saw horses. I needed it after I'd found that the one that was severely clogged, had some corrosion and degradation that was impossible to repair so, in came a brand new Copper/Brass unit to replace the Aluminum/Plastic version. And, the corner plates you see that are part of the steel frame, were solid from the factory. I plasma cut them to open them up so I'd increase the square inches of cooling area. When you add all those corners up, and how much square inches were blocked, that adds up to quite a bit of needed cooling area. Time to open them up.

In the last couple of pics, that is how it looked the second time I pulled both units. Even had an over-cooked RAT stuck in those fins too. In my personal opinion, for coaches like ours, it's just not possible to do an efficient and total job of cleaning all those fins, every square inch, without the removal of both of them. When you see what's stuck in the corners, It's impossible to get that stuff out without removal and, in my case, disassembling the steel frame around the radiator.
Scott
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:04 AM   #13
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The coschis 2003 fleetwood rev , I've never overfilled oil but perhaps my dad ( previous owner )or whoever serviced for him did .
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Old 09-21-2018, 12:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Darin,
Unless I missed it someplace, you don't say what make/model/year/chassis/engine you're dealing with. A lot of assumptions can be made here which, might influence an answer that applies to you and your coach. For instance, if your coach is an era '04-say, '07 plus or minus, and, you're dealing with a CAT engine, then there's been the issue of TOO much oil being added when an oil change is taking place. Too much oil will result in aeration which, results in excessive blow-by gasses being emitted from the blow-by tube.

When that happens, you get an oil mist from that tube and, due to the engine fan operation, that mist will be deposited all over at least the lower side of the CAC and the radiator fins. When that happens, that fan will also pickup tons of street debris, dust, leaves and more. When that happens, you'll have all that sticking to your cooling fins of both units. Pretty soon, there's so much clogging taking place that, the fins are found, as you see them in your pictures and mine below. NOT GOOD.

Second, again, if you have a CAT, there's been numerous threads about the issue of the blow-by tube exting the engine in an incorrect area. So, if you do have excessive blow-by, that point at which the blow-by tube is in such a place that the fan can pick up all that comes from it. So, the answer, there's a CAT kit that can be added to this tube, to extend it to a point that anything that emanates from it, will no longer do any harm or, contribute to the clogging of the fins.

Or, you can extend it yourself in all kinds of manors and with various materials. The point being, extend it to as close to the rear of the coach as possible.

The next thing and of equal importance is, make darn sure you're placing the correct amount of oil in your engine when the change is taking place.

As for you getting both of those units as clean as new, well, good luck while doing it in place. Every coach has its issues in access to those to get them clean. Some manage to do a fair job via an access hole in the top of the fan shroud that they cut. But, on mine, even though the engine can be totally seen when I disassemble the bed, the way the shroud seals EVERYTHING, there is zero ways to get mine clean while both of those are in place. So, mine come out. Your choice.
Scott




Dav L,
You're looking at the radiator and CAC "Charge air cooler" of a diesel equipped coach with a rear radiator. There is no "CAC" on a gas engine in gas coaches. As I explained above, there's reasons these radiators and CAC units get clogged, being in the position they're in, in the back of diesel coaches.
Scott

In the first pics below, that is how I found my radiator after we'd owned it for less than a year. OBVIOUSLY there had been no maintenance on it prior to our purchasing of it. I took care of that. You'll also see a brand new radiator on my saw horses. I needed it after I'd found that the one that was severely clogged, had some corrosion and degradation that was impossible to repair so, in came a brand new Copper/Brass unit to replace the Aluminum/Plastic version. And, the corner plates you see that are part of the steel frame, were solid from the factory. I plasma cut them to open them up so I'd increase the square inches of cooling area. When you add all those corners up, and how much square inches were blocked, that adds up to quite a bit of needed cooling area. Time to open them up.

In the last couple of pics, that is how it looked the second time I pulled both units. Even had an over-cooked RAT stuck in those fins too. In my personal opinion, for coaches like ours, it's just not possible to do an efficient and total job of cleaning all those fins, every square inch, without the removal of both of them. When you see what's stuck in the corners, It's impossible to get that stuff out without removal and, in my case, disassembling the steel frame around the radiator.
Scott
Scott, love your photo's...........very helpful to those who are wanting/wishing to just wash from the outside/inside........love the last couple picture's!!
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