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Old 05-26-2016, 02:03 AM   #57
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Good information. Problem with my coach is that the 1/4" tubing wouldn't quite fit into the dipstick housing far enough to reach the oil. It got held-up about 6" from that point. I could feel the change in the tube with the dipstick, but I wasn't about to force the 1/4" tubing any further.

I know what you're saying, I use 3/32" tube and cut the end at a taper. Got to play with it a bit but it works.
Pulling the sample off the bottom of the pan can give some bad results that are misleading.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-27-2016, 10:43 AM   #58
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Got the oil analysis back. Negative on antifreeze!!! See test results below. Probably got a little dirt in the oil through my frustrating process of trying to get a measly sample.

I filled the surge tank and made sure the reservoir tank had plenty of antifreeze in it. This morning I drove it to a nearby campground for the weekend. Made sure the motor got up to temp. I left the campground, but will return and hopefully very little got sucked back into the system.

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Old 05-27-2016, 11:10 AM   #59
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Got the oily analysis back. Negative on antifreeze!!! See test results below. Probably got a little dirt in the oil through my frustrating process of trying to get a measly sample.



I filled the surge tank and made sure the reservoir tank had plenty of antifreeze in it. This morning I drove it to a nearby campground for the weekend. Made sure the motor got up to temp. I left the campground, but will return and hopefully very little got sucked back into the system.



Attachment 128376

Don't just assume the elevated silicon is from a contaminated sample, particularly since the aluminum is elevated also. Might be prudent to pall another sample in a thousand miles or so.

When has the air filter been replaced? On most of these coaches, the clean side of the intake system must be opened when the filter is replaced. That's an excellent time to introduce a leak in the clean air flow. It only take a life time cumulative total of 4-6 oz of dust ingested by an engine to require a rebuild.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:36 PM   #60
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Again today the motor sucked in all the coolant from the reservoir bottle while the motor was off and cooling down. So once again I'll fill the reservoir back up and see if it does it again but I won't be moving the coach til Monday. I think it's time I just take the coach in for a complete service/maintenance check and maybe they can figure it out.
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:23 PM   #61
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How much did the level in the reservoir rise between cold at home and hot at the campground?
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Old 05-28-2016, 12:18 AM   #62
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How much did the level in the reservoir rise between cold at home and hot at the campground?
The level does not rise at all. I am still going with the thought that I'm pushing out air bubbles.
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:56 AM   #63
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The level does not rise at all. I am still going with the thought that I'm pushing out air bubbles.
If your surge tank is full when cold, and your expansion tanks is filled to its low level mark when cold, you should see a rise in the level in the expansion tank when the engine is up to operating temperature and after some driving time. then as it cools off, it should suck the level down in the expansion tank. It will take several heat ups and cool downs to work all the air out, the it should start to hold a level in the expansion tank, at the low level mark, when cold, if there are no leaks. At operating temperature, mine will fill to the high level mark or a bit above, and when cooled off, the level will be around the low mark in the expansion tank.
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:48 PM   #64
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Radiator Max/Min Fill Lines

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The level does not rise at all. I am still going with the thought that I'm pushing out air bubbles.

Either the radiator is still blowing air into the reservoir, or the overflow is leaking out. If leaking, you should see it spattered all over the engine compartment unless it is spraying downward onto the road from a hose or connection. Or from the run to the dash heater and back.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:47 PM   #65
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Finally, a bit of a breakthrough. Prior to leaving the campground today, I refilled the surge tank and reservoir bottle up to the level between min and max. When I arrived home, antifreeze actually flowed into the reservoir bottle up to the max line, and as the engine cooled, antifreeze sucked back into the system but it didn't totally drain the reservoir bottle. So that part is working better!

When I pulled into the campground on Friday and into my driveway today (Monday), I could smell antifreeze. I never had an antifreeze smell before. As the engine cooled and sucked in antifreeze from the reservoir bottle, today a drip started underneath the radiator. I didn't have time to inspect things any closer, but I am hoping to schedule an appointment for a maintenance check this week so I may just let them figure out the rest. Thanks to the help I got here, at least I got this problem to a point of it starting to make sense.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:32 AM   #66
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Another update. Truck repair place took a look at the cooling system. Radiator itself is leaking. Replacement ordered. Nothing $2200 can't fix.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:01 PM   #67
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Another update. Since I hijacked this thread, I figure I better report back and give this closure. As I stated in the last post, I needed a new radiator. I got one installed. After it was installed I had to burp the system a couple more times, and now the cooling system works spot-on. The coolant level in the overflow bottle also works spot-on.

I have a side radiator and the total cost was $2800 including new hoses, clamps and an a new air filter and a check of some other things. Seeing the costs that others have posted on replacing their radiator, I think I did OKAY. Have to say that on a 16-year-old coach, having a new radiator along with new hoses and clamps and all that is quite comforting.
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