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Old 11-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #15
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Are you keeping the RPM's up? In one of the schools I went to, They said diesels put out so much torque at low RPM's that people were pulling grades at low RPM's and the water pump was not putting enough water through the radiator to keep it cool.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #16
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A shut off valve will not stop the micro creepy crawlies from going "up river" and getting past your valve. They will spread along the walls of the tubing/piping and get past the valve.
interesting thought...bleaching sprayer tank will still leave it susceptible from the lines running to the radiator???
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:21 PM   #17
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Speaking from experience, many years ago I worked on a Seismic crew in N Africa. The wheeled equipment we had used a Detroit 453 series engine. Turns out the folks that packaged the equipment undersized the radiators for the desert and our only option (until the new rads arrived) was to spray them with water.
Well, guess what. It kept things cooled but made a huge mess and we ended up with rust problems and rotten radiator cores in a few weeks time.
Spraying water is a BAD THING

Better to solve the problem than use a band aid.
What about your driving habits?
When you are making a long climb, I suggest you use manual gear selection to drop into a lower gear and keep the engine RPM in the upper range as opposed to keeping your foot in the accelerator and the engine working like a dog.
By using a lower gear, you reduce the HP load (which means the engine produces less heat) on the engine and allow the fan to operate at full speed to increase air flow across the radiator.

If all this don't work, trade her in on a yeller dog and shoot the dog.

Just kidding on the last comment, Happy Trails.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #18
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blackhawk ---- 2 questions. 1) what degree theromstat are you running ? 2) when it, in your opinion, over heats what are you doing ? pulling a hill? if so and you have a boost gauge, how much boost are you pulling then? are you running a exhaust temp. gauge ?
Wow, I don't know temp thermostat I'm running.
When my temp goes above 210-220 I'm pulling a heavy towd on grade.
I pull over at 220 and it cools right down in 10-15 minutes. Exhaust temps and boost fluctuate depending on conditions. I think I've seen my exhaust temps at 1200?
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:27 PM   #19
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Are you keeping the RPM's up? In one of the schools I went to, They said diesels put out so much torque at low RPM's that people were pulling grades at low RPM's and the water pump was not putting enough water through the radiator to keep it cool.
I always try to keep my engine r's up on grade, downshifting if necessary...
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:30 PM   #20
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interesting thought...bleaching sprayer tank will still leave it susceptible from the lines running to the radiator???
Short answer is -yes. Plus using bleach/water/heat will rot your radiator and anything else the spray would hit....
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:07 PM   #21
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Short answer is -yes. Plus using bleach/water/heat will rot your radiator and anything else the spray would hit....
noooo, I was thinking just bleach the tank regularly!!
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:28 PM   #22
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blackhawk--- how offten do you deal with the heat problem ?? i had a 2 axle gas dump truck bored 40 over. ( 40 over couldn't keep the heat in the cylinders, 30 over never caused problems). when i took it to the valley (10 to 20 degrees hotter than my side of the hill) it would over heat. put 4 electric fans in front pushing, when needed, and had to take the shroud off, couldn't pass that much air. took care of the problem. (already had the biggest radiator). don't know if you have the room. spraying water is the old timers trick. worked for them.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #23
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blackhawk--- how offten do you deal with the heat problem ??
only on long grades pulling a heavy jeep
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:01 PM   #24
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only on long grades pulling a heavy jeep
Simple, axe the jeep
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #25
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why bother?

Why, pray tell, do you want to drill a hole in the RV, or the sprayer, tank?
Simply put a tee in a water line or better yet, fill a pitcher with water from your galley sink faucet and pour it into the tank for the sprayer.
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:27 PM   #26
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Have you downshifted, and tried to keep the engine around 1900-2000 rpms no matter what speed you make? If everything is clean and working properly, you should be able to climb over almost any hill by downshifting and maintaining the above mentioned rpms.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:58 PM   #27
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Blackhawk,

Grab a flashlight and check the perimeter of your radiator, paying special attention to the driver's side. You may have to do this via the engine access in your bedroom. My guess is that you will find some crud that is causing your engine to run hot.

My first RV was a 28' trailer towed by an '87 Chevy dually. I had overheating problems that was solved by a radiator sprayer called the "Desert Cooler." They are not made anymore but it worked well.....until the water mineral deposits built up on the cooling fins and made matters worse. I tried treating the fins with CLR, but it didn't help much. Great idea in theory though.

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Old 11-09-2012, 04:32 AM   #28
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As others have tried to say, as the temperature rises, the gear should be lower and the revs higher. If it means going up the grade at 30mph, so be it. That might lose you a few minutes every week or two, but the upside is you don't have to add a heap of stuff to your engine and risk rust and corrosion and engine damage doing so.

That said, I also have an MC8 with an 8V71 two stoke in it and there are others in the "club" who have repowered with a 6V92 which has more power - and of course more heat to get rid of. They do have an unsolvable problem because there isn't room to increase the radiator capacity so they have to resort to adding scoops and sprayers to keep the temperature under control.

Those of us with a modern chassis shouldn't really need to go to such lengths unless we are in a real hurry to get to the top.
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