Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-09-2012, 07:00 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
H. Miller's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,523
As there is NO engine information (other than DP), my first question would be which engine & hp?
Why don't you prepare a "signature" with all that information?????
__________________

__________________
Hal & Ginny Miller '04 Beaver Santiam PRT40
'04 Saturn Vue - US Gear Brake - Blue Ox tow
4"girls" (3 Irish Setters - 1 Retriever) - RIP Annie
H. Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-09-2012, 11:19 AM   #30
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by H. Miller View Post
As there is NO engine information (other than DP), my first question would be which engine & hp?
Why don't you prepare a "signature" with all that information?????
275 Horsepower Cummins Turbo Diesel, Allison automatic transmission with an electronic shifter. Banks Programmer giving it an extra 75-100 horsepower.

1996 Fleetwood Discovery, 37'

Radiator clean inside and out, new water pump, clean air filter, the rig runs at 180 most all the time. Only on long grades pulling a heavy Jeep/towd does the temps rise to 210/20 before I pull over and let it cool. The engine cools down to 180 within a few minutes. I try to keep the rís up. The sprayer works well and the dealership tells me itís all in normal operating condition, everything checks well in my cooling system and 220 is not a problem. I was just wondering about adding water capacity to my sprayer tank.

...I like the discussion and information floating around.
__________________

__________________
Blackhawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 11:46 AM   #31
Senior Member
 
jauguston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bellingham,WA
Posts: 973
Have you tried turning the programmer off to see if it is the problem? A extra 100 hp will strain a cooling system designed for 100 hp less.

That ISB needs to turn much higher than 1900-2000 rpm when pulling hills. It is a rather high rpm engine. Try pulling up near governed rpm.

Jim
__________________
2005 Sportscoach Elite 40' C-7 350 Cat w/MP-8
Suzuki Samurai toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel
800w solar system
jauguston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 11:51 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
Steve Ownby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cosby, Tn
Posts: 6,397
That little ISB with the Bank system on it is just producing more heat than the radiator package can deal with When pushed to the max. If you are seeing 1200 degrees on your exhaust temps then you are close to melting a piston. Of the water temp and the exhaust temp, the exhaust is most important. You have reached the performance limit of your engine and supporting systems. Downshift until your temps start falling or stabilize at acceptable levels.
__________________
Steve Ownby
Full time since 2007
2003 Monaco Signature
Steve Ownby is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 12:04 PM   #33
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 18
Banks system came stock on the unit.
I have seen 1200 on the exhaust gauge...not regularly.
__________________
Blackhawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 03:28 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
DonDee's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 1,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Rockwood View Post
A shut off valve will not stop the micro creepy crawlies from going "up river" and getting past your valve. They will spread along the walls of the tubing/piping and get past the valve.
The vac break in my toilet must be letting "critters" into my fresh water!! ??
__________________
Don, Mary and Spooky
'00 Bluebird Skoolie Conversion
Geo Tracker/Dodge Neon/Aprilia Scooter towed
DonDee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 03:44 PM   #35
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,306
If the time comes to change coolant and you haven't already done so, try using the new OAT coolants. They seem to run about 5 degrees cooler and don't require testing.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 06:01 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,252
If you need more water, instead of putting a new tap in the tank, as already suggested, just put a T fitting in a water line. I cringe at the thought of tap water spraying on a hot radiator. Distilled, maybe, but tap water and the minerals in contains will eventually clog your fins with deposits that will ruin the radiator. Besides the main radiator, you've got inner cooler and trans cooler all stacked up together getting coated with minerals. Better to downshift and slow down, letting engine revs make the fan run faster and circulate coolant to reduce temperature. Whole lot cheaper than replacing the whole 'cool pack.'
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
87Rockwood's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Looking here and there.
Posts: 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonDee View Post
The vac break in my toilet must be letting "critters" into my fresh water!! ??
If you look at a house-hold toilet it fills with a hose that is above the water in the tank and just runs water into the tank without touching the water.
In our aqua IV I just bleach the flushing groove at the top of the bowl every week to keep it clean.
__________________
87Rockwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 07:17 PM   #38
Member
 
DeadRinger's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 51
Would a crack in the CAC or a dirty air cleaner or a worn out turbo cause any of his overheating problems?
__________________
2000 Monaco Diplamat
DeadRinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 07:27 PM   #39
Member
 
DeadRinger's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
If the time comes to change coolant and you haven't already done so, try using the new OAT coolants. They seem to run about 5 degrees cooler and don't require testing.
I wouldn't use OAT coolant in a engine not designed for it it might eat your seals and gel in the motor.

Organic acid technology
Certain cars are built with organic acid technology (OAT) antifreeze (e.g., DEX-COOL[18]), or with a hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulation (e.g., Zerex G-05[19]), both of which are claimed to have an extended service life of five years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi).
DEX-COOL specifically has caused controversy. Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in General Motors' (GM's) 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L and 4.3L engines. One of the anti-corrosion components presented as Sodium or Potassium_2-ethylhexanoate and Ethylhexanoic_acid is incompatible with Nylon_6,6 and Silicone_rubber, and is known as Plasticizer. Class action lawsuits were registered in several states, and in Canada, to address some of these claims. The first of these to reach a decision was in Missouri where a settlement was announced early in December 2007.[20] Late in March 2008, GM agreed to compensate complainants in the remaining 49 states.[21] GM (Motors Liquidation Company) filed for bankruptcy in 2009, which tied up the outstanding claims until a court determines who gets paid.[22]
According to the DEX-COOL manufacturer, "mixing a 'green' [non-OAT] coolant with DEX-COOL reduces the batch's change interval to 2 years or 30,000 miles, but will otherwise cause no damage to the engine."[23] DEX-COOL antifreeze uses two inhibitors: sebacate and 2-EHA (2-ethylhexanoic acid), the latter which works well with the hard water found in the US, but is a plasticizer which can cause gaskets to leak.[16]
According to internal GM documents,[citation needed] the ultimate culprit appears to be operating vehicles for long periods of time with low coolant levels. The low coolant is caused by pressure caps that fail in the open position. (The new caps and recovery bottles were introduced at the same time as DEX-COOL). This exposes hot engine components to air and vapors, causing corrosion and contamination of the coolant with iron oxide particles, which in turn can aggravate the pressure cap problem as contamination holds the caps open permanently.[24]
Honda and Toyota's new extended life coolant use OAT with sebacate but without the 2-EHA. Some added phosphates provide protection while the OAT builds up.[16] Honda specifically excludes 2-EHA from their formulas.
Typically OAT antifreeze contains an orange dye to differentiate it from the conventional glycol-based coolants (green or yellow). Some of the newer OAT coolants claim to be compatible with all types of OAT and glycol-based coolants; these are typically green or yellow in color (for a table of colors, see [15])
__________________
2000 Monaco Diplamat
DeadRinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
rssnape's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 330
I put money on the culprit being the Banks tuner. The only way you get 100 more horse power is by adding more fuel. More fuel equal more heat. Most all diesel sites tell you to watch the pyro with a chip because you can flat melt a turbo if you over fuel it. That same heat is saturating the engine as well as the turbo and cooling system.
Try putting the wife in the jeep and tell her to put it in drive and floor it! ;-)
__________________
rssnape is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 11:11 PM   #41
Registered User
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,954
Yep.. extra 100hp of heat.. Reason it works 'most of the tme' is 'cause you are not actually using the extra 100 hp. Long grades uphill towing at speed, however, will.. thus the overheat. The water spray was added as a quick fix..
__________________
Midniteoyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 09:23 AM   #42
Senior Member
 
jauguston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bellingham,WA
Posts: 973
RS,

If you go back and read the OP's post he has a pyrometer and says it doesn't go over 1200 degrees. That EGT is totally safe as 1250 degrees is considered the safe limit for long term pulling a ISB. EGT is NOT his problem. My Cat C-7 can be pulled at 1400+ degrees safely but it has steel pistons rather than aluminum ones.
__________________

__________________
2005 Sportscoach Elite 40' C-7 350 Cat w/MP-8
Suzuki Samurai toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel
800w solar system
jauguston is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
radiator



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.