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Old 11-10-2012, 09:56 AM   #43
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Approx. how fast are you climbing those hills?

Are you keeping up with the cars or are most of them passing you on these hills?



Any idea what your mpg's are on hilly days? This might be interesting.


How much does the jeep/cargo/tow bar weigh?

Is the radiator aluminum?










QUOTE=Blackhawk;1365521]275 Horsepower Cummins Turbo Diesel, Allison automatic transmission with an electronic shifter. Banks Programmer giving it an extra 75-100 horsepower.

1996 Fleetwood Discovery, 37'

Radiator clean inside and out, new water pump, clean air filter, the rig runs at 180 most all the time. Only on long grades pulling a heavy Jeep/towd does the temps rise to 210/20 before I pull over and let it cool. The engine cools down to 180 within a few minutes. I try to keep the rís up. The sprayer works well and the dealership tells me itís all in normal operating condition, everything checks well in my cooling system and 220 is not a problem. I was just wondering about adding water capacity to my sprayer tank.

...I like the discussion and information floating around.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:56 PM   #44
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RS,

If you go back and read the OP's post he has a pyrometer and says it doesn't go over 1200 degrees. That EGT is totally safe as 1250 degrees is considered the safe limit for long term pulling a ISB. EGT is NOT his problem. My Cat C-7 can be pulled at 1400+ degrees safely but it has steel pistons rather than aluminum ones.

Thank you, and to add, I rarely hit the 1200 range. I'm not convinced I have a cooling problem with my system. The rig runs most of the time at 180. Only when pulling 4500lbs on long slow grades do I hit the 220 mark. Some say 220 is no problem, I agree but I also turn on the sprayers at 210 and if it doesn't drop below 220, I pull over. The engine cools her back down to 180 in 10-15 minutes.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:51 AM   #45
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Again, normally you are not using all the available horsepower. Less horsepower equals less heat to get rid of, so your cooling system can do it. But,, when you are pulling up long grades, you are using more horsepower. Much closer to your peak. That creates MUCH more heat to for the cooling system to get rid of, which it cant since it was desighed for LESS horsepower than you are now making due to the Banks system adding 75-100 MORE horsepower. While you might say that it doesnt overheat while, say , accelerating onto the highway even under full throttles, you need to remember that that is a transiet heat load not continuos like pulling up a long grade. It IS a cooling system problem.. As in, you need a larger one.



sorry for the spelling errors, my tab with firefox decided not to let me correct today
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:07 PM   #46
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A shut off valve will not stop the micro creepy crawlies from going "up river" and getting past your valve. They will spread along the walls of the tubing/piping and get past the valve.
An RPZ (reduced pressure zone) backflow preventer should be safe, you see them all of the time where an underground sprinkler connects to a potable water supply. It is like a double check valve on steroids.

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Banks Programmer giving it an extra 75-100 horsepower
Radiator too small for your new found horsepower?
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:22 PM   #47
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It IS a cooling system problem.. As in, you need a larger one.
I'll look into it!! thanks
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #48
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Radiator too small for your new found horsepower?
...radiator came with the engine/Banks system...
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:15 PM   #49
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...radiator came with the engine/Banks system...
Isn't the Banks usually an add on, not factory? But then I don't know too much about DP's.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:58 PM   #50
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Even is it came from the dealer with a Banks, it was an add-on.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:53 PM   #51
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The sprayer seems to be a viable system for you and as you state you just need more water capacity. How about another tank? Even if the new tank were remote from your
main sprayer tank , a small pump may be able to refill your sprayer tank.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:35 PM   #52
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I used a radiator water spray system on my last three gasser rigs. Two of the rigs had banks systems on them which definatly helped in the horsepower and torque when pulling long steep grades. The water sprayer was only used when pulling these long grades as the temperature would always climb and create extra unwanted heat in the engine compartment. This unwanted heat would eventually cook spark plug wires and become another problem. It was kind of a security blanket I guess but I never once had to pull over to the side of the road because of the engine being overheated.

I plumbed all three water spray systems into the inlet side of the house water pump using a seperate smaller 12 volt water pump to run the water spray to the radiator. I then ran a switch up near the dash to control the small water pump when needed on hills.

I am sure that the water spray systems saved my A$$ more than once when climbing 7% grades in 100 plus temperatures.

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Old 11-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #53
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The sprayer seems to be a viable system for you and as you state you just need more water capacity. How about another tank? Even if the new tank were remote from your
main sprayer tank , a small pump may be able to refill your sprayer tank.
Thanks for bring it back home to the water capacity. My thinking is that I have a large fresh water tank that I usually run 1/4 fill...why not use that one. My original post was about going through the old tanks without promoting cracking. I'm thinking of running a crossover tube and shutoff valve so when the primary tank runs low, I can turn the valve and let the fresh water tank fill the sprayer tank.

thx
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