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Old 06-26-2019, 06:39 PM   #1
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Re-Painting Tiffin Allegro

My husband and I are tackling the unenviable task of refinishing and repainting our Class A, 33-foot, 2004 Tiffin Allegro. Hoping some of you may be willing to share input.

I've scoured these forums, and others on the web for as much info as I can find. Here's what I think needs doing:

RE-PAINT PLAN
  1. Remove (disgusting, peeling, sun-scorched) decals. We are currently doing this with a combo of heat gun, rubber eraser wheel, pressure washer, and Goof Off. Arduous, thus far.
  2. Wash the living daylights out of the exterior. Planning on doing this with Dishsoap and light scrubby sponge for the roof, and using TSP with light scrubby sponge for sides/front/back surfaces. Will rinse with pressure washer.
  3. Sand with 120 grit sandpaper. We'll be using a handheld orbital sander
  4. Wash with denatured alcohol.
  5. Tape the heck out of the exterior around all tape-worthy things.
  6. Prime two coats. We plan on using a sprayer and Interlux Pre-Kote primer.
  7. Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper using handheld orbital sander.
  8. Rinse water, let dry, wipe down with damp microfiber. (Do we use alcohol again?)
  9. Paint 2-3 coats. We plan on using a sprayer and Interlux Brightside Polyurethane paint.
  10. Wax using Meguiar's M5001 Marine/RV One Step Cleaner Wax
  11. Stand, exhausted, looking at our RV as it glistens - clean and bright in the setting sun - admiring our work, waiting for our pain-killers to kick in, and discuss how we wish we had paid someone else to do all of this.

QUESTIONS:
  • What am I missing?
  • What would you suggest we do differently?
  • ***WILL INTERLUX PRE-KOTE AND INTERLUX BRIGHTSIDE POLY PAINT WORK FOR BOTH THE FIBERGLASS EXTERIOR AND THE METAL BAYS? I read on their website they recommend, after sanding and washing metal, to apply "Interprotect 2000E (thinned...)" before Pre-Kote and Paint. Any thoughts here?
  • Do I need to re-apply new Caution and Warning stickers? Is this a legally mandated thing?

THANK YOU FOR ANY INPUT YOU MAY HAVE!!!! xoxoxo

RV Exterior: https://photos.app.goo.gl/19vN26FW4qyDsQC46
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzydbean View Post
We are currently doing this with a combo of heat gun, rubber eraser wheel, pressure washer, and Goof Off. Arduous, thus far.

a 3M eraser should do the job. Pressure wash before to get any loose dirt out of crevices beforehand.
[*]Wash the living daylights out of the exterior. Planning on doing this with Dishsoap and light scrubby sponge for the roof, and using TSP with light scrubby sponge for sides/front/back surfaces. Will rinse with pressure washer.
[*]Sand with 120 grit sandpaper. We'll be using a handheld orbital sander

That's too aggressive. use 240 or 320 only. You are only scuffing up the gel coat. Not removing it. Use an air DA sander. Rent a decent compressor if you don't have one.


[*]Wash with denatured alcohol.
Wipe down with Prep-sol instead.

Remove any silicone sealing gaps really well. Then sand to remove any residue

[*]Tape the heck out of the exterior around all tape-worthy things.
[*]Prime two coats. We plan on using a sprayer and Interlux Pre-Kote primer.
Use Car paint for best finish.

[*]Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper using handheld orbital sander.
Block Wet sand with 600. 320 too aggressive.


[*]Rinse water, let dry, wipe down with damp microfiber. (Do we use alcohol again?) Wash with water, Pre-sol then tack rag.
[*]Paint 2-3 coats. We plan on using a sprayer and Interlux Brightside Polyurethane paint.
Again, use auto paint. Then clear coat just after base coat is near dry. All has to be painted within 24 hours once started.

Wait two months

[*]Wax using Meguiar's M5001 Marine/RV One Step Cleaner Wax
[*]Stand, exhausted, looking at our RV as it glistens - clean and bright in the setting sun - admiring our work, waiting for our pain-killers to kick in, and discuss how we wish we had paid someone else to do all of this.[/LIST]
QUESTIONS:
  • What am I missing?
  • What would you suggest we do differently?

    See my comments in line.
  • ***WILL INTERLUX PRE-KOTE AND INTERLUX BRIGHTSIDE POLY PAINT WORK FOR BOTH THE FIBERGLASS EXTERIOR AND THE METAL BAYS? I read on their website they recommend, after sanding and washing metal, to apply "Interprotect 2000E (thinned...)" before Pre-Kote and Paint. Any thoughts here?

    Use auto paint. That's what the OEMs use.
  • Do I need to re-apply new Caution and Warning stickers? Is this a legally mandated thing?

    It's your RV. I wouldn't put any decals on.

THANK YOU FOR ANY INPUT YOU MAY HAVE!!!! xoxoxo

RV Exterior: https://photos.app.goo.gl/19vN26FW4qyDsQC46
See my comments within your quote above.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:42 PM   #3
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It looks like your covered on the basic process.., Mine cost about $1000 and took about 4 weeks working a little each night and on weekends.. I bought a large 21 gallon compressor and a couple air tools. The jitterbug is mandatory, cuts sanding time by a factor of 10.


I used a single stage automotive polyurethane paint.

Heres an article I put up on my web site that may be helpful.

New paint for the ole Southwind – 1999 Southwind 35S

..
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Old 06-27-2019, 05:58 AM   #4
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You missed putting it in a place that is dust and bug limited to do the painting. Fresh paint attracts both like flies to a pile of #$%^.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:13 AM   #5
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I agree with Dav L....
Your sandpaper choices are to aggressive and yes, you're going to have to do this in a place where it's ventilated and bug controlled and don't forget to wear proper protective breathing gear.

I believe I read somewhere here on this site that new full body paint coaches are not supposed to get waxed for the first year or something like that. This new paint needs to breath and cure before first waxing. Someone else will know the details of this.

Good Luck.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
you're going to have to do this in a place where it's ventilated and bug controlled and don't forget to wear proper protective breathing gear.
If you don't have these facilities available, don't let this hold you back. I painted mine outside, yes, there were a couple issues that I needed to deal with, but planning ahead will minimize the negatives.. I made note of the issues I had and what I would do next time..

i.e. Don't paint in the fall when leaves are falling (obviously) , Don't paint in direct sunlight, don't paint in the evening if the dew point will be reached overnight. Don't worry about it if a bug lands on the paint, leave it alone, it will pop off after the paint dries.


Be cautious if you live in an urban area with neighbors, You be surprised how far over spray travels..


OH YAH - Outside painting solves one problem, ventilation.. HOWEVER - WARNING - Don't paint ANYTHING without face mask and/or breathing apparatus. This stuff will kill you.


..
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:49 AM   #7
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Believe it--or not. I painted my 1957 Chev convertible, a 1960 Austin Healy, and a 1956 Ford pickup with a Filter Queen canister vacuum sweeper back in 1966.
Got many compliments for the paint jobs. Even won Best of Show for the '57 at a car show.
Take your time. Do everything you can to eliminate dust, bugs, and moisture.
Minimize air flow while painting and have breathing apparatus.
I actually sprayed for flying insects around the surrounding houses in addition to my own.
I kept my garage floor wet in order to keep dust away, and kept foot traffic to a minimum.
One last thing I did--and it worked for me with the paints we used at the time--was to lightly (LIGHTLY) mist with thinner after the paint set for a bit.
Oh, Filter Queen wouldn't back up their warranty, for some inexplicable reason.
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:08 AM   #8
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I'm repaint my front cap now. I've been researching this to - as I am not professional painter. Check out the "Gunman" videos on YouTube. And "Autobody101.com forum".

1) I started with 150 grit to remove my peeling clear coat. That removed some of the base coat too. Next block sanded with 220 grit to feather out the edges and smooth the surface. Clean with PrepSol.

2) I'm spraying 2K Urethane Primer-Surfacer over that surface above. I got a gallon with the hardener from Eastwood. I was told this step is not necessary but is smart to do (you can paint the base coat directly on the fiberglass/gel coat surface if you want). https://www.eastwood.com/paints/auto.../urethane.html

3) Then sand that Primer coat with 320 grit. Clean again with PrepSol. I also have some of the Eastwood "Pre-paint prep solevent". It was said that 400 grit is okay too but go no finer than that or you lose adhesion.

4) Spray the Base Coat. I'm using BASF 3-M Diamont line (since that was what factory used and I have the color mixing specs in that line). This is a solvent based Urethane paint. The Base coat is mixed with reducer (I'm using Slow reducer since I'm painting outside and its hot). The Paint Tech specs say you can add "hardener" optionally. I was told by supply store where I got paint that it is a good idea to add hardener to base coat.

5) After the appropriate amount of drying time, sand the base coat with 1200 grit to remove any imperfections in base coat (dust, bug, etc.)

6) Then spray Clear Coat (again Urethane paint). The Clear uses a hardener and a reducer). After applying several coats, and allowing each coat to "flash" before the next is applied, you can sand with 1200 to remove orange peel, if necessary, followed by 1500, 2000 grit. Some say to sand with 3000 grit last to make the cutting/polishing step easier.

7) Last is the cutting/buffing step. To achieve full gloss and remove any sanding scratches from the 1500/2000.

I'm at step 2 now.

I have the Eastwood HVLP Concourse Pro spray gun. I was told to set the inlet air pressure to around 15 to 20 psi (since I'm spraying outdoors. No paint booth) to reduce over-spray. In a booth the pressure would be closer to 30.

I'm attaching the Sanding Grit chart I got from the AutoBody101 forum, which may help you too. However no two people (or two charts) give exactly the same advice - and most of the pros provide their advise base don their expenses which are from painting in a paint booth. Painting outdoors may require some modification on spray techniques.

Good luck.
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:18 AM   #9
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Attached is a photo of our 1989 Foretravel after it was repainted by "somebody". I don't know who, but I was asked by a couple who build yachts on the East coast where It was done, because they had never seen such beautiful work.
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:25 AM   #10
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It sounds like youíve done a lot of research and are going down the right path.

I do agree with others that your 120 grit sandpaper choice is too aggressive.

Make sure your compressor has a water filter, or get a cheap inline filter to put on your air hose just before the spray gun. Youíll be surprised the amount of water it will collect. I sprayed my truck last year and kept noticing water droplets on the surface. Did some research - ordered this filter and that solved the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30252A-...s%2C160&sr=8-5

Spend a few extra dollars and get 3M vinyl tape to mask off any new stripes you are going to do. It will leave a very nice crisp edge when you remove it, and wonít leave any sticky residue behind. Painters tape will work, but I found the vinyl tape results look much better - Iím currently in the process of repainting my decals and am using lots and lots of vinyl tape.

Even if you are going to paint outside make sure whoever is painting wears a respirator! Loweís sells a reusable 3M painting valved safety mask for around $40 that I use, and itís comfortable and works great.
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunny1 View Post
Make sure your compressor has a water filter, or get a cheap inline filter to put on your air hose just before the spray gun. Youíll be surprised the amount of water it will collect. I sprayed my truck last year and kept noticing water droplets on the surface. Did some research - ordered this filter and that solved the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30252A-...s%2C160&sr=8-5
Good advice. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but your link would have saved me a few dollars.
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:26 AM   #12
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I see youíre in California. Good luck spraying something that large outside without complaints, that stuff stinks. Most areas have severe HazMat restrictions.
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Old 06-27-2019, 12:21 PM   #13
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Thank you so much everyone for your feedback and input. I'll most definitely use a finer grit paper for sanding, and likely invest in a jitterbug sanding tool and large air compressor.

As for paint - will car paint work on the fiberglass exterior? Any particular brands I should seek out?
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Old 06-27-2019, 12:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzydbean View Post

As for paint - will car paint work on the fiberglass exterior? Any particular brands I should seek out?
Sure - think Corvette.
I would try to keep all the products from the same company (so Base, Clear, Hardener, and Reducer are same manufacture). Then you know the mixing ratios and painting instructions are correct.

When I was buying my paint, the counter guy and I were talking about brands - (he's a professional painter) and he said 90% of the paint brands available today are good (not like 20 years ago).
I got the "BASF 3-M Diamont" line (expensive) but they (the BASF distributor) also sells the "Metalux" line which he said was good and inexpensive. PPG, Standox, DuPont are frequently mention as top tier. I assume they have different levels of quality/price within their brands.

Eastwood has a line of paint which I hear is good quality to. That's were I got my primer. https://www.eastwood.com/paints/auto...es/colors.html

If your not trying to match existing colors - then it should be easy to go with any of the brands mentioned. If your color matching then it best, IMO, to go with the original paint manufacturer.
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