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Old 01-10-2019, 03:50 PM   #15
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Delaware beaches
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiawah View Post
I'd start by understanding in detail your tow. Between the car hauler and vehicle, you may need a 10K rated hitch (ie, greater than 5K).

Remember also, that just because an RV has a hitch rated 5K, doesn't mean it can actually legally tow that much. That's only a statement about the strength of the hitch metal and it's connection to the frame.

You have to be concerned about the RV's CGVWR (the combined gross vehicle weight rating - the maximum amount of weight the RV and tow can be), and it's actual loaded weight (w/fuel, water, loaded as you travel). Your max tow is the 'minimum' of either the hitch rating, or (CGVWR minus RV actual weight). A number of coaches can't pull 5K, some diesels and moreso gassers.

Because you are going to pull a trailer instead of a toad or car dolly, you ALSO need to be concerned about your rear axle weight. If you assume your trailer and car will be 6K pounds, then the hitch weight has to be 10-15% of that or 600-900 lbs. When you hang that weight on the rear, it also shifts the center of gravity back and some weight will come off the front axle toward the rear, so you may end up with up to 1K pounds extra on the rear axle. Here again, your coach has ratings for each of your front and rear axle, where you shouldn't legally be overweight (Rear axle rating minus the actual weight (as per CAT scale). Axle ratings are the minimum of each of the components of the axles and frame (axle, brakes, shocks, airbags/springs, tires, bolts, etc). A number of coaches are already close to rear axle maxed out, and hauling a trailer like you are intending would put it over.

So a diesel with tag axle and 10K hitch rating 'should' give you the capacity you are seeking, but you really need to verify your tow and weights. Not sure you'll find one within your target price, so you are going to have to investigate whatever you choose very carefully.

I agree - excellent advise.
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