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Old 01-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #29
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Thanks for that

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-Sommers View Post
I have done just what you (the original poster) ask about, and with the benefit of a four foot cheater bar, removal and installation is a breeze. That is if the lug nuts are torqued to 500 ft/lbs.

Use a "run up block" to raise the appropriate corner by driving up on it, with the block only under the inner duel of course. Use a quality breaker bar and 1.5 inch socket and extension with the pivot point supported with a car jack, and the cheater bar over the breaker bar, and remove nuts.

The trick not is to not let the tire/wheel to lay down flat so that you have to lift it from that position, upon removal just roll it to the tail gate of a pickup, and with a length of 2X4 under the tire it is easy to lift into the bed if using the 2X4 properly.

Upon return from the tire shop, use a garden rake to hook onto the far side of the repaired tire and pull, you will find this a very convenient way to remove the tire but be sure to let the tire fall in an upright manner so as to roll it to the RV.

Once ready to position the wheel on the nuts, use a 2X4 and a crow bar to lift the tire into position, no heavy lifting.

Torquing is easy, even to 500 ft/lbs. Remember that torquing was being done way before the invention of the torque wrench. Just divide 500 by your weight, and the answer is the length of a bar to reach 500 ft/lbs. For example, say you weight 150 lbs. 500 divided by 150 comes out to 3.3, so when ready to torque the nuts, put your hands 3.3 feet (about 3 feet 4 inches) from the pivot point, and push down on the cheater bar till you are brought up on your toes, any you are at 500 ft/lbs.

All the heavy work has been intelligently, so no heavy lifting was required!

Archimedes said that if he had a long enough lever, and a place to stand, he could lift the world (or something like that).

Soooooo, I say go for it!

Ed

P.S. Look for a "Ken Tool" at your local auto/truck parts store.
Hey Ed thanks for the torq lesson I will remember that. Awesome!
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:57 PM   #30
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I believe it is best to replace both tires on a side, difference in tire size will cause problems down the road. An older tire is smaller in diameter than a new one, even the same make and number, wear reduces the diameter, allowing the new tire to carry more load than the other. JMHO.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:50 AM   #31
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I believe it is best to replace both tires on a side, difference in tire size will cause problems down the road. An older tire is smaller in diameter than a new one, even the same make and number, wear reduces the diameter, allowing the new tire to carry more load than the other. JMHO.
Like most things, there is a way around this.

Once the newer tire has been installed, and is on the road, draw a line straight across the old, and new tires and drive, in a straight line, for a few miles or so.

When you stop look at the lines, and access the results as follows... if a line is worn only on the outside, that tire is under-inflated...if the line is worn only in the center, that tire is overinflated...if the line is completely gone, congratulations, it's near perfect. Adjust tire pressure till both tires are running flat which means tire pressures may be different. Use this measurement as a base line so even if you desire to run with a little higher pressure, the difference in tire pressures should be maintained.

Problem solved.


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Old 01-26-2013, 11:56 AM   #32
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I have 22.5" tires on my 03 Holiday Rambler. A outside rear tire was damaged by previous owner hitting a curb, I believe.

Is it physically possible for me to pull this tire off to take to a truck stop to replace? Yes - but as mentioned the tire and wheel are very heavy. After I pulled mine I rolled the tire up a eight foot 2X10 into the back of my pick up truck and took it to a tire shop.

How do I lift the coach for the tire to clear the ground? For an outside dual you can run the inside tire up onto a short piece of 2X10. That raises the outer tire enough to be able to remove it.

Can I remove a front wheel -- since my hydraulic jacks will lift it off the ground? Or is it a massive amount of weight, torque, and labor?\ If I did that I would use a jack stand or similar device to support the front before removing the tire.

Thanks.

I live about 40 miles from the nearest tire shop and hesitate to use road service since it would take them longer to get to my property than it would for me to remove the tire. Last year when I removed the outer dual I had to use an extension on the breaker bar. I had a five foot section of galvanized water pipe that slipped over the breaker bar and it was still difficult to break the lug nuts loose. I cut notches in a piece of 2X6 to support the outer end on the extension. I now have a torque converter wrench and no longer need to jump up and down on on a breaker bar extension. I'm no spring chicken (and perhaps hard headed) but do prefer to do anything I can without using commercial businesses.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:44 PM   #33
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I now have a torque converter wrench and no longer need to jump up and down on on a breaker bar extension..
Bob (? or Sandi??)
Thanks. BUT, what is a torque converter wrench. Seems like something I should know, but when I check the internet, I either get torque converter, or torque conversion tables.
Can you send a pic or a link?
thanks
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo View Post

Bob (? or Sandi??)
Thanks. BUT, what is a torque converter wrench. Seems like something I should know, but when I check the internet, I either get torque converter, or torque conversion tables.
Can you send a pic or a link?
thanks
I believe he's referring to a torque multiplier.

http://www1.snapon.com/25537/TorqueMultipliers.nws

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default....tCatalog=PROTO
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:54 PM   #35
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The shop that put my tire back on had a torque wrench with a 5 foot handle. Torqued right down till it snapped. At 5 feet its only 100 lbs of pressure.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:10 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Bob (? or Sandi??)
Thanks. BUT, what is a torque converter wrench. Seems like something I should know, but when I check the internet, I either get torque converter, or torque conversion tables.
Can you send a pic or a link?
thanks

Opps, Snappy's right - torque multiplier not torque converter. Sorry about that.
Bob
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:29 PM   #37
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I just had the tire shop fix my 22.5" inner dual at their shop. The rubber seal on the valve stem was leaking. I paid the shop $15 for him to do all the hard stuff. Have the tech a $20 tip for taking good care of my rim. If you try yourself, look at the studs. If they have an "L" stamped on it they are left handed thread.
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