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Old 11-04-2013, 09:46 PM   #1
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Rear axle leaking...

I have seen some oil/ grease on the inside of the tire rim, had it looked at and was told it was the Axle seal...
There are about 6 bolts holding it on, do I dare try changing this out myself? Should I do both sides ?
This is on a 1992 Bounder with a ford set up...looks simple, but then looks can be confusing at times.
The only issue is getting the rear end up in the air to get the tire off.
Thanks for any insight.

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Old 11-04-2013, 09:54 PM   #2
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If you have leveling jacks you can use them to raise one side of the axle at a time and be sure to block the other tires/wheels.

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Old 11-04-2013, 09:59 PM   #3
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Where would I find new seals? I've tried to lift the rear, I can't get it high enough, the front yes, but not the rear.
I was thinking of renting a air jack
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:09 AM   #4
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Probably the biggest problem will be the size of the nut holding the hub on and tightening it to set bearing play. It's a relatively easy job but you've got to have the tools and knowledge to get it right or you'll ruin the bearing quickly.
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:23 AM   #5
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This is easy. You'll want to block up the side your working on so the oil runs in the other direction (otherwise when you remove the axle you'll have a mess). Remove the bolts holding the center of the axle to the hub. Then, pull the entire axle completely out. It'll be messy. Clean up the end of the hub and install the new gasket, then slide the axle back in until you feel it engage in the differential, then replace all the bolts.
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:47 AM   #6
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The gasket and seal are two different parts. The seal is inside the hub/rotor, that has to come off.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:50 PM   #7
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Got it...I think I will give it a shot...if so I'll post pictures..
Thanks for all of the advise.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:36 PM   #8
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I would strongly recommend getting a repair manual for this job. The hub assembly is held on by 2 bearings and a special nut. There is a specific torque sequence for this nut. If not performed correctly, it will require a phone call to axle surgeon to a tune of $2500.00. You will also need to check the fluid level in the rear axle. If it is low, you will not get lube to the outer bearings. Again, a phone call to axle surgeon. I usually over fill the axle and turn in tight circles to slosh the fluid to the outer bearings and recheck for level. If you have the means, you can try tilting each axle end high to try and get the fluid over to that side.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:16 AM   #9
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One other point is that the dual wheels with brake drum weigh a lot. One trick we had in the military doing what you want to do while in the field, was to raise the axle just enough to slide a piece of greased plywood under the tires, then lower the axle JUST to the point where the weight was off the bearing (neutral weight on bearings and axle) enough to allow the wheel/drum asm to slide off the axle on the greased board.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:44 AM   #10
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Our rig has disc brakes on the rear. You 92 may have drums. Either way if you don't have a wheel dolly it is easier to just take both tires off, then you can remove the rotor or drum by hand as it is a lot lighter this way. Oil in the drum can ruin the brake shoes in short order. I would do both sides while you are at it and also the brakes if they need it at all while you are in there. Getting the preload on the bearings is the most critical part of the job, as others have stated, but not that hard if you do it step by step and read from a manual or pull it up on the net. You can buy the axle nut socket as they are pretty cheap. Good luck.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:43 PM   #11
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Make sure you support it with a jack stand not just a jack. Be careful when sliding the axle back in so you don't damage the new seal.

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Old 11-08-2013, 05:35 AM   #12
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The axle shaft goes inside the axle tube, the seal will be outside the tube, they can't touch.

You do need to be careful when putting the rotor/drum back over the axle tube especially over the threads. Don't slide it on, it has to be held so it clears the tube in all directions. And make sure the seal and machined surface it runs on are both lubed well before installing.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:46 PM   #13
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Ok I am going to give you some good advice. If you are thinking about renting an air jack but did not talk about renting Jack Stands I worry about this procedure from the start. This is not something for the novice mechanic. You are talking about very heavy components attached to a very heavy bus. The risk here is not insignificant. Removing the axle and then replacing the bearing is not a simple job if you do not know how to do it. Just reading a manual in my opinion is not going to be the basic knowledge of how to fix it. For something like this I am thinking take it to a truck mechanic. All you have to do is not get a nut tied down correct or the axle locked in place correctly or the bearing not in perfectly straight and now you have at the least a very expensive repair and possibly an extremely hazardous situation. Think if something goes wrong and you are going down the road at 60 miles and hour when the axle comes out. Not a good scenario at all.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:33 AM   #14
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Ok, now I'm not going to do it..ha ha ha
after seeing all of the feed back I think I'll just take it in and get some quotes on the job,
Thank you all for your feedback. I was worried about doing this in the first place,
so I do think it is better for someone else to do it. That way it is perfect...I'll stick to the simple and lite weight jobs.
Again thanks to everyone who have pointed out many different sides to this repair. I leave this one to the pros....

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