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Old 06-17-2016, 11:25 PM   #15
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9,000 miles and I assume this is a new coach... so the slack adjusters have to be self adjusters.... its very unlikely that new self adjusting slacks are out of adjustment...

Please confirm that when you say the one side is locked... if you try and pull ahead the wheels attempt to slide on the pavement?

Please confirm that you've tried to back the coach up and when you do this, there is no change in the brakes being locked up?

Please confirm that the brakes lock up... after a brake application, or do they lock up while driving down the road and the vehicle just stops moving?

Please confirm that both air gauges are above the 100 psi mark when this occurs?

BTW - this is very interesting... something I'm going to have to think through...
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:52 AM   #16
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brakes locking

thanks again for the info.
I do not use feet on both peddles to drive.
I can tell that the brakes are locked or maybe dragging is a better word, when in stop and go traffic and the coach will not roll when I take my foot of the brake peddle I must press the accelerator to the floor to get it moving, and when I let off it will come to a stop without stepping on the brake peddle.
I have pulled over when this condition happens and there is a definite burning smell at the rear axle, and the hub are hotter the others.
I have not tried to back up when this happens to release them yet.
I have got them to release several times by pushing hard on the brake peddle and activating and releasing the parking brake several times.
at other times I just have to wait awhile and they seem to release them self.
I am sure there is not air pressure problem because I have never received an alarm, and the gauges are always around 120 lb when this happens, and after pressing the peddle several times to release air the pressure builds back up fast.
One other note, it seems to happen when I need to push harder on the brakes to stop, then when I need only slight pressure to stop when rolling under 5 mph.
any advice will help
Thanks
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:44 AM   #17
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I wonder if there is a Freightliner chassis shop near you. I think their main factory is in Gaffney South Carolina.. and there are several resources online for FCCC Owners.

Owners | Freightliner Chassis RV
XC Chassis | Freightliner Chassis RV

Have you inspected the tires carefully, including the inside of the tire sidewalls? I've read of cases of tires rubbing parts and then bursting.

And certainly there is a spring loaded emergency brake in there that springs CLOSED with air pressure being the only this that keeps them open. I'm wondering if you are having a freak episode where they aren't being kept open despite full air.

I think someone needs to put the chassis on a lift and pull the rear wheels right away. A truck tire service center would probably have someone on site knowledgeable in inspecting the tires, hubs, brakes all that, but me personally would prefer to have this under the freighliner warranty.

A phone call to freightliner with the chassis VIN might help kick start the process.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:05 AM   #18
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Do you have and use an engine or exhaust brake, while in traffic ?
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:34 PM   #19
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I've seen this happen and caused by the treadle valve/brake peddle not returning to the full up position.


Try pulling the peddle up by hand to see if it's in fact binding a little. Sometimes you can lube it from the top by spraying WD-40 on it and working it by hand until it moves smoothly again.


Another cause could be one of your two or three if you have a tag axle relay valves.
On occasion, a relay valve will stick internally and not release the brakes on the axle it controls.


You can test the relay valve theory by securing your coach by chocking the wheels on level ground, release your parking brake and step on the brake peddle hard enough to cause the dragging issue.


Then you or a helper should watch the slack adjusters to see witch wheels are lagging behind upon releasing the brake peddle.


If they all lag, (not coming back to the release position) the treadle is a strong suspect.


You should also hear the air applied to the effected brakes.


Replacement of relay valves are preferred over cleaning for safety. Treadle valves do go bad also, and require replacement.


These are typical issues on all air break equipped vehicles.



Hope that makes sense


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Old 06-18-2016, 11:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plasma800 View Post
I wonder if there is a Freightliner chassis shop near you. I think their main factory is in Gaffney South Carolina.. and there are several resources online for FCCC Owners.

Owners | Freightliner Chassis RV
XC Chassis | Freightliner Chassis RV

Have you inspected the tires carefully, including the inside of the tire sidewalls? I've read of cases of tires rubbing parts and then bursting.

And certainly there is a spring loaded emergency brake in there that springs CLOSED with air pressure being the only this that keeps them open. I'm wondering if you are having a freak episode where they aren't being kept open despite full air.

I think someone needs to put the chassis on a lift and pull the rear wheels right away. A truck tire service center would probably have someone on site knowledgeable in inspecting the tires, hubs, brakes all that, but me personally would prefer to have this under the freighliner warranty.

A phone call to freightliner with the chassis VIN might help kick start the process.
I think this is a distinct possibility- a faulty air chamber on that wheel's air brake system.
The air chamber is purchased as a unit, it has a very strong spring inside that applies the emergency brake. Trying to disassemble it yourself is playing with fire-so to speak. The good news, they are under $75 for a new chamber.
I wonder why the selling dealer did not repair your brakes since it was under warranty?
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:46 PM   #21
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so if the foot pedal was at fault, there would be a supply of air to all wheels... if 3 wheels are effected.. the foot pedal is not at fault..

The spring brake has 2 chambers.. one is a spring loaded e-brake that applies spring pressure to apply the brakes.... that chamber is tied to the other chamber on the other side... so if one side leaked off... it would set both springs and lock the complete rear axle..

There is a valve at the rear axle that has the job of seeing what the foot pedal does... and applies the same (common port) air to both rear wheels... it uses a common port so that even if the slack adjusters are not adjusted correctly, the air pressure is even on both sides.... so if this valve was hanging up... both back wheels would be effected...

I'm thinking there is either a rock, or something is loose in that one rear wheel... since I assume this coach is still under warranty take it to Freightliner and have them pull the wheels off... take off the drum and find out what's gone wrong inside that assembly...

The odor you smell is damage to the brake block that is riveted to the shoe... you have heated the shoe to a point where the resin has cooked out of the block and its now damaged... it will be cracked and damaged.. and some of it might be loose and might be causing some of this damage... also... if the rivets are loose... those loose rivets would allow the brake block to possibly jam the friction...

In any of the above cases... its now damaged, and is unsafe to drive at highway speeds and might not stop as needed in an emergency... carefully get it to a shop and get it apart...

I'd suggest that you no longer go back and deal with the first 2 shops that you visited.. you might, want to think about going back in your car... talking to the owner and suggesting that they missed (by not listening to you) something that might have caused a accident... with the full story and thinking through the process I'm almost 85% sure we're down to a problem at that one wheel...

Hope this helps solves your problem..
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:31 PM   #22
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Jelag,


Good point about the leak between the diaphragm, I forgot about that one, And it just happens to be the same reason for the brake issue on the last truck I had to repair for dragging brakes.


I don't think the OP is equipped to handle a DIY repair here since working with the spring brake chamber can be very dangerous for the untrained.


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Old 06-20-2016, 05:20 PM   #23
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A air leak in the rod seal from the spring chamber to the service chamber should travel up the line to the open relay valve.

It would have to be a large leak
to overcome the service side spring and the OP should notice that big a leak.

I would be looking for a mechanical issue if it only effects 1 wheel.
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
A air leak in the rod seal from the spring chamber to the service chamber should travel up the line to the open relay valve.

It would have to be a large leak
to overcome the service side spring and the OP should notice that big a leak.

I would be looking for a mechanical issue if it only effects 1 wheel.

Yes,

As we are all trying to help, we really don't know at this point if it's effecting just one wheel.

The OP did say it would/could be dragging until it completely released.

It would be very difficult to hear that leak from the driver seat if it's in the rear.

just throwing out ideas...


Eyes on with our collective experience, we'd have it resolved in five minutes
I don't know how the tapped brothers do it


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Old 06-20-2016, 10:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jelag View Post
so if the foot pedal was at fault, there would be a supply of air to all wheels... if 3 wheels are effected.. the foot pedal is not at fault..

The spring brake has 2 chambers.. one is a spring loaded e-brake that applies spring pressure to apply the brakes.... that chamber is tied to the other chamber on the other side... so if one side leaked off... it would set both springs and lock the complete rear axle..

There is a valve at the rear axle that has the job of seeing what the foot pedal does... and applies the same (common port) air to both rear wheels... it uses a common port so that even if the slack adjusters are not adjusted correctly, the air pressure is even on both sides.... so if this valve was hanging up... both back wheels would be effected...

I'm thinking there is either a rock, or something is loose in that one rear wheel... since I assume this coach is still under warranty take it to Freightliner and have them pull the wheels off... take off the drum and find out what's gone wrong inside that assembly...

The odor you smell is damage to the brake block that is riveted to the shoe... you have heated the shoe to a point where the resin has cooked out of the block and its now damaged... it will be cracked and damaged.. and some of it might be loose and might be causing some of this damage... also... if the rivets are loose... those loose rivets would allow the brake block to possibly jam the friction...

In any of the above cases... its now damaged, and is unsafe to drive at highway speeds and might not stop as needed in an emergency... carefully get it to a shop and get it apart...

I'd suggest that you no longer go back and deal with the first 2 shops that you visited.. you might, want to think about going back in your car... talking to the owner and suggesting that they missed (by not listening to you) something that might have caused a accident... with the full story and thinking through the process I'm almost 85% sure we're down to a problem at that one wheel...

Hope this helps solves your problem..
Can't speak to Freightliner, but Spartan chassis will lock one rear wheel when a brake chamber fails. A buddy's Newmar Essex had one fail and lock only that wheel. Roadside assistance replaced the bad chamber, buddy was back on the road in 30 minutes.
The only time both emergency brake chamber sections are tied together is when the parking brake knob is pulled/pushed to the park positon.
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