Rear end replacement

[Dav L]

The other downside of pulling an axle to tow is keeping the oil in the rear. Many tow operators use cardboard but that does leak. There are also aftermarket plastic covers but who thinks to get them in advance other than a tow operator.

Pulling the driveshaft for longer distance tows is the only good way. Just ensure that the bearing caps are taped so they don't fall off in commute. Something the tow operator that moved mine forgot. $130 replacement U-Joint and half a day to find one.

[Pirate]

Originally Posted by Dav L

The other downside of pulling an axle to tow is keeping the oil in the rear. Many tow operators use cardboard but that does leak. There are also aftermarket plastic covers but who thinks to get them in advance other than a tow operator.

Pulling the driveshaft for longer distance tows is the only good way. Just ensure that the bearing caps are taped so they don't fall off in commute. Something the tow operator that moved mine forgot. $130 replacement U-Joint and half a day to find one.

After reading this and other posts, I made a towing bag with correct sockets to remove the ujoint bolts and axle caps. You can buy the caps here: https://www.axlecap.net/price-list.html

[Soppy]

Pulling the driveshaft ,crawl under the vehicle and remove 4 bolts/nuts , then tape the U joint and tie up the drive shaft. Some manufactures use thread locker on the bolts so heat from a small torch may be needed to remove the bolts.

Pulling the axles , at least 8 bolts/nuts per side , then U have to store the oil covered axles and cap the holes , but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle.

Either method will work for towing , unless the rear diff is damaged , then removing the axles is the only option.

[nothermark]

One of my time wasters is watching towing video's. The folks I watch carry predrilled plywood to cover the axle holes and pull both axles only if they cannot pull the drive shaft for some reason. The drilling is for the bolt pattern. All of them carry the tools to pull the shafts or axles. Not all of them put anything back when the tow is done.

If I was going to carry anything it would be a set of bolts for the U-joints. Often see messed up bolts as the reason they cannot pull the joint or that they mess them up more getting them out. If I was getting up in miles I might stock a set of bearings as a lot of places can change them but don't stock them. If had to have a shop put the drive shaft back they might as well change the U-Joint & bearings at the same time.

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by Soppy

Pulling the driveshaft ,crawl under the vehicle and remove 4 bolts/nuts , then tape the U joint and tie up the drive shaft. Some manufactures use thread locker on the bolts so heat from a small torch may be needed to remove the bolts.

Pulling the axles , at least 8 bolts/nuts per side , then U have to store the oil covered axles and cap the holes , but you don't have to crawl under the vehicle.

Either method will work for towing , unless the rear diff is damaged , then removing the axles is the only option.

Its really best to mark the splines and remove the drive shaft completely. Tying it up it only leaves a small amount of clearance before the yoke of the shaft can contact the yoke of the pinion. If these two touch while moving down the road you just did several hundred dollars in damage. I would bet the pinion yoke is nearly impossible to find and probably cost north of $150. If you happen to damage an ear on the drive shaft you are completely Hosed.

Index the splines, tape the ujoint caps and toss the whole shaft in a basement or strap it to the tow truck bed. This is way easier than trying to ratchet strap it between the frail rails somewhere.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Pirate

After reading this and other posts, I made a towing bag with correct sockets to remove the ujoint bolts and axle caps. You can buy the caps here: https://www.axlecap.net/price-list.html

Y, those are exactly the ones I was looking at to tow the MA from Vegas to Michigan...When I got to Vegas, found the driveshaft was already disconnected and wire tired up and out of the way of the pinion.

I did speak to Allison prior to ensure that it could not be towed connected. It can't. They recommended the one axle pull. But they aren't the manufacture of the rear axle.

And, for those that didn't read my "Bringing the Mountain Aire back from the Dead" thread, I ended up fixing it and driving it home to Mich so no further tow needed. Hopefully never again It was extremely difficult to find a Stretch RGN gooseneck with blocking to flat bed it home, and just as difficult to find a 2000 mile heavy wrecker tow. So, I just fixed it instead Got lucky.