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Old 01-19-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
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We pulled our factory, rear mud flap off -- wasn't satisfied that it added enough value for the weight that we were dragging around. We replaced it with a MUCH LIGHTER hula skirt type mud flap. So far, I can't tell you that it has made any difference in engine cooling or in managing splash-back on the front of the Wrangler. \ken
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:07 AM   #16
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"So, I am interested in hearing what others who have (or have removed) these things think about them."

Yes, I am too.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:10 AM   #17
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Been dragging my CC mudflap around for 12 years.

No problems observed so far.

I have had an overheating issue and have a few chips on the bottom of my Jeep bumpers but nothing that I would consider a problem caused by the flap.

If someone could say that I would gain 1 MPG improvement, it would come off in a heartbeat at $4.00 per gallon!
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumps View Post
We pulled our factory, rear mud flap off -- wasn't satisfied that it added enough value for the weight that we were dragging around. We replaced it with a MUCH LIGHTER hula skirt type mud flap. So far, I can't tell you that it has made any difference in engine cooling or in managing splash-back on the front of the Wrangler. \ken

Ken, I considered one like that, but I don't think it will stop a big rock! JMHO
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:35 AM   #19
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Ken, I considered one like that, but I don't think it will stop a big rock! JMHO
If you have ever observed a hula skirt flap going down the road, you can se that it won't stop much of anything as it is blowing in the breeze.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:37 AM   #20
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Very few "large and heavy full length flaps" drag on the ground at highway speeds.....and not much is "kicked up" at slow speeds.
IMO, they are primarily a "bling thing".
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Old 01-19-2014, 12:43 PM   #21
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If you have ever observed a hula skirt flap going down the road, you can se that it won't stop much of anything as it is blowing in the breeze.
I have not really seen extra rock chips on the toad but there is a reason UPS puts these around the trailer wheels they cut down on water spray and road grime tremendously

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Old 01-20-2014, 09:31 AM   #22
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John: That positioning is interesting to me. Still 4" off ground at ride height, right? Do you notice reduction in the splash pattern on the rear sides of the MH (as well as on the Toad)? Did you experiment with positioning closer to the aft side of the wheels? I'm curious about the reason for the gap between the wheels and the skirt. Many Thanks! \ken
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:58 AM   #23
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The guy that install my rear mud flap with the coach logo on it, said that it was mostly bling and did very little to protect the toad. He recommended replacing the OEM rear tire mud flaps with lager mud flaps, 3" off the ground. I did as he recommended and 2 years now, with no major chips or dings on the toad.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #24
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One other thing. Check the mounts on your bling mud flap. I had mine disconnect on one side where the little adjustable chain link wore completely through the eye hook from "swinging". I happened to look in my camera and see it swinging around on the road in front of my Jeep, which was just about to run over it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:35 AM   #25
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My OEM flap rides apx 6" off the ground at ride height and I would not have it closer. It has never been damaged backing, etc. It does hit the ground often when leveled in campgrounds.

I removed it last summer for our Alaska caravan, as did others who had made the trip before. One guy had a new C and had a flap added at purchase. He said he had it shortened after installation but it still was on the ground. His Honda Civic toad was a disaster before long. The windshield looked like it had been sand blasted with very large grains of sand. He not only had rocks literally piled on the wipers after a drive, but even had rocks resting on the upper trunk lip below the rear window. We had 22 rigs, 17 of them motorhomes of some sort. I keep records of everything, and noticed no mpg difference that I could credit to the flap not being there, either on the caravan or in the apx 3k miles we drove to and from in the US. So I put it back on after the trip as I do think it helps just a little with toad cleanliness when driving on wet roads, though the toad still gets dirty enough to need windows cleaned before driving so it likely does not help enough that I would pay anything to replace it if it got damaged.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:42 AM   #26
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On the older, horsepower challenged DP's, the full width type made cooling more difficult.

On the newer, high horsepower, I doubt that problem still exists to any degree of difficulty. However, if there is a problem with overheating during climbs, removing that full length, air flow restrictive, flap may make a difference.

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Old 01-20-2014, 10:47 AM   #27
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I took off my rock solid flap off the back, cut it up, and used it to put flaps behind the rear wheels. No more dragging. Haven't seen any extra chips on the toad or a difference in mileage.
Looks a lot better now.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:16 PM   #28
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John: That positioning is interesting to me. Still 4" off ground at ride height, right?

Ken

Actually no I used a stock 18" high skirt which just rubbed the ground so I let the road surface rub it down to size so it comes close to dragging the ground all the time.

Do you notice reduction in the splash pattern on the rear sides of the MH (as well as on the Toad)?

Definitely a very noticeable difference of less road grime and spray behind the rear wheels after installation.

Did you experiment with positioning closer to the aft side of the wheels? I'm curious about the reason for the gap between the wheels and the skirt.

The gap was self determining by cutting the stock width skirt in half, what does not show is the fact that on the driver side where the tail pipe comes out from under the body is just a few inches in front of the skirt, the gap also serves as a entry point for me and a creeper to roll under during maintenance (totally by accident). It still has the OEM rubber flaps mounted as well.


The rear skirt was mounted at the point that the lower body line went from straight to arching upwards that kept every thing far enough forward to clear the trailer hitch and look "right" according to my mind. The skirt runs full length across the back with no gap which was important to me for looks as well as the fact I have in mind to mount a spare tire and well back there sometime in the future and did not want to have the skirt in the way if ever changing a tire in the rain.

It's all mounted to 1" aluminum angle, needless to say there is no problem with it dragging in a dip or driveway. It washes back to a deep black very easily with a spray power washer.

Many Thanks! \ken
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