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Old 01-26-2014, 05:55 PM   #29
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John: Had a chance to go down and crawl under my rig. I can see where the "skirt" can attach. In fact, it looks like it would be a great fit. I appreciate the idea ... bonus points to you! Thanks! \ken
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:30 PM   #30
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I forgot to mention I used stainless steel nuts, bolt, screws, and washers as needed.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:00 AM   #31
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I removed ours and find the toad is much cleaner.
I notice less spray on a rainy day.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:39 PM   #32
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We have been installing the mud flaps across the back of the coach, and inside the fender wells for 7 years now. Here is a summary of what we have found.
As all have said, you do not want to be too close to the ground on the rear mud flap. If you are only 1-2" off the ground you can hit the ground on uneven, unpaved roads, and throw rocks at your toad. Even on smooth surfaces, the flap can cause a vortex tunnel and that wind can throw rocks at your toad.
You want it to be at least 4" off the ground. I would not go higher than 6" to avoid the rocks going under the guard and rising high enough to get your toad. Depending on the lift of your air bags, you may still need to go back and pull the mud flap out from under before letting the air out of the bags.
We have had several customers tell us stories about how the big flap saved their toad from big damage when they found an alligator in the road. One customer had it stop a 2x4 piece of lumber. Imagine what that could have done to the toad. So they are not just to protect your toad from rocks.
Another warning, when installing your back mud flap, use lok tite or other thread locker to keep it from unscrewing. Also if using the D Ring, make sure the nut is on top, screwing downward to keep gravity from taking it's toll.
The first step in protection are the mud flaps just behind your dually tires. They stop 80% of the rocks. They need to be within 6" of the ground when moving down the road. Just make sure that they will not hit the ground when you let the air out of your bags.
When buying a mud flap for the back of your coach you do need the weight of the stainless steel weight and backing plate to keep the mud flap from flying; but it does not need to advertise for the manufacturer. Have something special or meaningful laser cut from the stainless, or leave it blank. You can also have it sanded for a satin finish to avoid blinding the cars behind you, however most of the time your toad is blocking it from doing that anyway.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:46 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuraFlap View Post
We have been installing the mud flaps across the back of the coach, and inside the fender wells for 7 years now. Here is a summary of what we have found.
As all have said, you do not want to be too close to the ground on the rear mud flap. If you are only 1-2" off the ground you can hit the ground on uneven, unpaved roads, and throw rocks at your toad. Even on smooth surfaces, the flap can cause a vortex tunnel and that wind can throw rocks at your toad.
You want it to be at least 4" off the ground. I would not go higher than 6" to avoid the rocks going under the guard and rising high enough to get your toad. Depending on the lift of your air bags, you may still need to go back and pull the mud flap out from under before letting the air out of the bags.
We have had several customers tell us stories about how the big flap saved their toad from big damage when they found an alligator in the road. One customer had it stop a 2x4 piece of lumber. Imagine what that could have done to the toad. So they are not just to protect your toad from rocks.
Another warning, when installing your back mud flap, use lok tite or other thread locker to keep it from unscrewing. Also if using the D Ring, make sure the nut is on top, screwing downward to keep gravity from taking it's toll.
The first step in protection are the mud flaps just behind your dually tires. They stop 80% of the rocks. They need to be within 6" of the ground when moving down the road. Just make sure that they will not hit the ground when you let the air out of your bags.
When buying a mud flap for the back of your coach you do need the weight of the stainless steel weight and backing plate to keep the mud flap from flying; but it does not need to advertise for the manufacturer. Have something special or meaningful laser cut from the stainless, or leave it blank. You can also have it sanded for a satin finish to avoid blinding the cars behind you, however most of the time your toad is blocking it from doing that anyway.
Excellent advice!
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:07 PM   #34
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yesThank you DuraFlap great info, Now I have to rearange them on mine, just replaced all last year.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:26 PM   #35
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Except for D rings, the rule of thumb is to put all bolts down, nuts to the bottom to prevent hopefully, bolt loss if the nut comes off. Also, you can get locking nuts at several online sites. Use them. I'm not really sure why people don't use them or recommend them. You can also drill bolts and put a cotter key in them and they will never fall off and by using castellated nuts will stay tight til you loosen them. Not getting on you guys, just trying to add to the advice. Use grade 8 bolts, they will have 5 hash marks on the head and get a torque wrench or have a friend stretch them to the proper torque. After 4 million miles I have seen everything under the sun lying on the road from not being fastened properly including running over a boxsprings in fog and rain in a Prius.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:21 PM   #36
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We started a trip to Inuvik, NWT from Austin TX summer of 2013 with the heavy, metal and rubber Monaco flap that came with the rig. By the time we got to Whitehorse, the towed needed some serious paint and body work, as well as a windshield. We ended removing the flap when we lost the exhaust downturn on the Mackenzie River Ferry and finished the return trip to TX without it. We noticed no difference in the amount of road detritus that ended up on the towed. We will keep the flap for its bling value, but it apparently has no protection value.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:35 PM   #37
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Passin Thru, That added advice is great. Thank you for all the information.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:04 PM   #38
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Took it off and have not missed it at all.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:14 PM   #39
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Just before entering the East gate of Yellowstone(2010), they had ground the road surface for repaving. When we stopped at the CG in the Tetons, the Protect-A-Tow had about five pounds of asphalt 'shavings' on top of it. Our rock guard is 4 inches off the ground...stlll had pock marks all over the Jeep's windshield. Even had small stones on top of the roof and down inside the vent behind the hood...geez! Lazy rock guard, I guess.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:55 PM   #40
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i polish mine once a year when i do all the shiny stuff on the coach
I have removed the panel and added black reflective tape that would show through the lettering. not sure how it looks from behind, but after three years its still there
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:52 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Just before entering the East gate of Yellowstone(2010), they had ground the road surface for repaving. When we stopped at the CG in the Tetons, the Protect-A-Tow had about five pounds of asphalt 'shavings' on top of it. Our rock guard is 4 inches off the ground...stlll had pock marks all over the Jeep's windshield. Even had small stones on top of the roof and down inside the vent behind the hood...geez! Lazy rock guard, I guess.
I would suggest making sure your mud flaps behind the dually wheels is long enough and wide enough. That is where you would stop most of the rocks and gravel. We like to keep them within 6" of the ground, but usually have them about 4" off the ground, but no closer. You just do not want them hitting the ground when you let the air out.
If you can use them in front, that is also recommended to help protect everything underneath your coach.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:22 PM   #42
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Mud flaps behind front and rear axles as well as one in the center of the trucks controls rock/road damage and we do have the towed vehicles very close to the unit doing the towing.


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