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Old 11-26-2012, 07:05 AM   #15
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Rgreen, Thanks for the info....and all your comments. Looking at the diagram Fran sent it does not have a separate pin for the brake light signal, but it does have a pin for electric brakes ie 6 pin. I should clarify the trailer has a 7 pin connector, so i purchased a 6 pin to 7 pin adapter from E Trailer. With the 6 pin connector when the brakes are applied both turn signal pins should be hot.....and I am getting nothing on either pin (Lt Turn or Rt Turn)

Fran, Thanks for the info. I could see if the coach brake lights did not work, but they do....so I know a signal is getting to them and illuminating them, but not getting to the plug on the rear of the coach. I am going to get under there today and trace the wires back up. What are your thoughts on pulling that trailer without the electric brakes hooked up? Palehorse's link was pretty cool....if you all think that the trailer brakes are needed. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:14 AM   #16
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All, I finally found the right wiring diagram and it shows the coach plug is wired from the right rear light assembly......
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:24 AM   #17
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I pulled my trailer for 1 year with out brakes and then thought about what would happenif I had a accident, no brakes on trailer? big problems for me I suppose, even though in pa. they state in the fine print in the laws "not needed if trailer is less than 3,000 lbs and less than 40% of the tow vehicle. I installed that brake controller and wow what a differance in braking and stopping distance! Empty trailer=2450, harley and a bunch of other stuff=1500-2200 lbs. Just about the weight of a car. If you have trailer brakes on the trailer I would use them, you will be glad you did.
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:27 PM   #18
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Re brakes, and only since you ask::

I'm of the very strong opinion that brakes are absolutely critical on a trailer that size, and wouldn't think of towing it without them working. Most tow vehicles, RV's included, have brakes designed to stop the vehicle itself, and not an extra 3 or 4 thousand pounds. There's also the very real threat of the trailer jackknifing during a sudden stop/slow event if it doesn't have its own brakes keeping it in line behind the rig.

Finally:
Some jurisdictions require brakes on a trailer that size, and nearly ALL require that if the trailer has OE brakes on it, they must be hooked up and working.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:10 PM   #19
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Question...Is my national 2004 Sea Breeze LX prewired for elec. brakes ?
There is a blue wire in the harness at the rear plug. Where do I pick up the other end in the Cab ???? Please help....
Is there a wiring diagram I can get and print ?
Tks for any Help....
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #20
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Skully
Does your coach have separate brake and turn lights? If so, you may need a converter to your trailer that has combined lights. Most newer coaches with separate turn and brake lights have a circuit factory installed, but yours may not.

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Old 11-26-2012, 09:53 PM   #21
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I had this problem with a GMC SIERRA DUALLY. When I plugged another truck into the trailer it worked fine. When I plugged the dually in I had no brake lights but turn signals worked great. The GMC SIERRA had two sets of lights on the truck's box that one was brake lights and the other was turn signals. The trailer wiring was routed right to the dash board and had a box under the dash (from Factory) that combined the brake and turn signals for the trailer. I suspect the LED's need this set up where your old lights may have had separate lights for each (just thinking) I replaced the box in the dually with one from the salvage yard and like magic I had brake lights. The box was bad. You may need to add this box or if there is one already in the unit it may have gone bad.


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Old 11-26-2012, 10:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Skully View Post
I have heard with a 40000 lb coach and towing about 5k lbs (2 bikes and a car) i don't really need it.
You've heard wrong!
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:11 PM   #23
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You've heard wrong!

Yes,,, very wrong,,,
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #24
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Thanks you all for your input. I agree I need to have trailer brakes....and I rebuilt the entire assemblies (bearings, shoes, magnets, etc) on the trailer about 2 years ago and they work extremely well. Pale, I am going to order that assembly you sent me the link to today...excellent advice from all.

Dennis/Joe, My coach does have separate brake and turn signals. Any idea if e trailer has this converter that I could mount on the trailer? Also, with the 6 pin connector I would have expected Winnebago to supply this converter since they installed the plug....yet I do not see any thing called out on the diagrams. It does say that the rear plug is "Supplied in the coach"...which means I wonder if it was installed at a later date.

Greg, There is a link to this Winnebago site which has all the diagrams. Not sure if your coach company is the same. Manuals & Diagrams

Thanks again all for your comments...appreciate all the help.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:16 AM   #25
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Another question on this converter box. Doesn't this need both the Rt and Lt turn signals to be BOTH hot in order for it to work? And then it sends the signal to the box that I will mount on the trailer?
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:16 AM   #26
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What manufacturer made the frame and wiring harness?
Like the dually, my GMC has a separate fuse panel for the towing plug. Keeps from loosing power to main vehicle if there is a short in trailer. Have 3 trailers, the small utility trailer keeps blowing running light fuse. Replace fuse after towing it and lights work on other 2 trailers. I'll get around to fixing it one day.
I would look for another fuse box and a blown fuse.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:14 AM   #27
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I have the Spartan Chassis...I have all the manuals for this coach and the chassis fuse box is outside under the drivers side seat. Originally I had a blown 15A fuse...changed it and it hasn't blown since....may have been when I was testing the plug with my meter. It's snowing out so I am gonna wait until this clears and I can re test the plug when the brakes are pressed....and I should have 12v on both the Lt and RT turn pins for the stop. If I have that I will check and see if I need the conversion box for the trailer. I thought about changing the plug to a 7 blade style....but then I would have to run a dedicated brake light to that pin from the coach lights....rt side where the harness goes...seems like a lot of work instead of just getting the box....anyways thanks for the help.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:32 AM   #28
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Another question on this converter box. Doesn't this need both the Rt and Lt turn signals to be BOTH hot in order for it to work? And then it sends the signal to the box that I will mount on the trailer?
the converter box goes on the MH that has seperate TSL and BL system
it has to wired into your TS wires bfore the out plug on your MH
you can also take one way diodes(2 in one out style) and make the system work for you.put one in each TS wire before the trailer out plug and piggy back your brake wire to each diode
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