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01-26-2011, 01:58 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary - K7GLD
This is actually an old thread topic, discussed quite a bit in past threads - here is a pointer to one fan setup a number of us are using successfully:
DOMETIC NORCOLD REFRIGERATOR FAN FOR RV 12 VOLT - eBay (item 250677760674 end time Jan-31-11 14:37:30 PST)
This fan can easily be installed, and the electrical can either be connected on some RV's as discussed above - or on refrigerators like our older '88 Norcold, I run the hot wire out to the rear of the refrigerator thru the refrigerator condensation drain, and connect it there at a point that provides fan power as long as the refrigerator is in operation.
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I looked at the ad for the fan and noted that there has to be an alternate installation procedure because our coach has a 2008 Norcold fridge. I wrote the seller, as instructed, but can't seem to get an answer that he says he will provide. Has anyone found how to install this fan in a newer Norcold? I don't want to buy it and then have to return it. I don't know why he doesn't answer. I get confirmations for my request.
Thanks, Joe
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 39W. Cummins ISB 6.7 Turbo 340HP. Allison 6 Speed. Freightliner XCS. Michelin XRV 255/80R 22.5 LRG. SuperSteer MCU. Safe-T-Plus.
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01-26-2011, 10:09 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 295
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Mounting this fan inside the fridge:
No one makes a Fridge manufacturer model specific fan of this type.
Seller has a great item; but it needs some method of DIY-er provided mounting. There are no clips, brackets or such for mounting the device. You have to add-on your own. It's a generic fan and not specific to any fridge mfgr. At $14.99 it's a great item & made for damp enviroment such as this fridge application. Has two fans as per picture.
The alum body has notches as per the pic that will allow you to surface capture it via screws along perimeter. You can zip-tie it, adhesive-mount it, heck, even paper clip it as a trapeze hanging, if you like. I pop-rivited two short lengths of sliced 5/16" dia clear hose to the back face, vertically on both sides. Then, slid it onto the cooling fins at the rear of compartment. Out-of-the way and blows outward. Air Direction doesn't really matter; it's function is to "circulate" the air.
Heres' my installation:
I wired it to hot leg & ground of the light and added an on-off switch to the body of the fan. I removed the two ribs at the centermost hole and inserted an slider on-off switch from the back side. This allows me to switch it as my needs arise. I have if "off" most wintertime trips & always "on" in summer, spring, fall seasons.
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01-26-2011, 11:17 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Christchurch, NZ
Posts: 313
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Must look into this - as soon as I can get my fridge to work on gas. It works fine on shore power, but the computer board seems to be knackered. We will change it to a 240V board for NZ and make some other 240V changes at the same time.
__________________
Graham Gracie in a 1999 Mirada, V10 Petrol. New Zealand, Suzuki Escudo 2001 2.5L V6. Mini poodle, Pierre and mini schnauzer, Maddie.
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01-26-2011, 01:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azloafer
I looked at the ad for the fan and noted that there has to be an alternate installation procedure because our coach has a 2008 Norcold fridge. I wrote the seller, as instructed, but can't seem to get an answer that he says he will provide. Has anyone found how to install this fan in a newer Norcold? I don't want to buy it and then have to return it. I don't know why he doesn't answer. I get confirmations for my request.
Thanks, Joe
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The "alternate method" I used on our older '88 Norcold in the MH, was to thread a power wire thru the refrigerator condensation tube running from the catch pan below the interior cooling fins out the rear of the box, and then attached the wire to one of the available 12 volt sources there that is only hot when the refrigerator is actually in use.
I plan to install another fan in our Dometic fridge in the 5er - but it has no similar drain exiting the box, so will have to improvise something different - but these fans DO work well to circulate and even out interior temps, and at the same time, minimize frost buildup on the cooling fins.
__________________
John Day....|'88 Winnebago Super Chief 27ft. Class A Eastern .....|'88 KIT model 240 24 ft. 5er Oregon ......|'02 Dodge/Cummins 2500 Quad Cab
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01-26-2011, 02:47 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary - K7GLD
The "alternate method" I used on our older '88 Norcold in the MH, was to thread a power wire thru the refrigerator condensation tube running from the catch pan below the interior cooling fins out the rear of the box, and then attached the wire to one of the available 12 volt sources there that is only hot when the refrigerator is actually in use.
I plan to install another fan in our Dometic fridge in the 5er - but it has no similar drain exiting the box, so will have to improvise something different - but these fans DO work well to circulate and even out interior temps, and at the same time, minimize frost buildup on the cooling fins.
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Just yesterday I was at the RV dealer getting my Norcold Recall taken care of. It is funny that you mention that tube that runs into a small evaporation tray. The end of the tube has a small plug with a hole in it. The service advisor was showing me the recall kit and mentioned that the tube plug should be cleaned and put back on. I asked if it needed that plug in the end and he said, "don't use it without that plug." I am not an expert on fridge drains, but there must be a reason for that special plug versus taking it off and leaving it off. I think I'll take his word for it.
Thanks and happy travels, Joe
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 39W. Cummins ISB 6.7 Turbo 340HP. Allison 6 Speed. Freightliner XCS. Michelin XRV 255/80R 22.5 LRG. SuperSteer MCU. Safe-T-Plus.
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01-26-2011, 03:29 PM
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#20
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Maybe its for cutting down what heat may be drown up inside to your interior box, that we are trying to keep cool.
There is a thread about how someone only when he was driving had his box temperatures drop because he had sealant on back of fridge with a hole through sealant.
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01-26-2011, 04:31 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Lakemurray,SC
Posts: 1,308
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I would think the fan would move a lot of your cold air out the condensation tube.
__________________
2004 Pace Arrow 37-C WH W-22 (sold)
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara toad or
2005 Harley/Lehman trike/Featherlite trailer
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01-26-2011, 04:40 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete & Linda
I would think the fan would move a lot of your cold air out the condensation tube.
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No. Not at all.
Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 Forum
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01-26-2011, 05:06 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Glendale, AZ (Phoenix)
Posts: 11
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Reversing wires on a computer fan.
Just a little note on reversing the wires on a computer fan to change air direction.
You cannot do it as the motor is actually AC. There is a little board in the fan that produces a AC current from the DC supply.
The reason is to eliminate the brushes of a DC motor which would product interference in a computer.
The sparks from a commutator with brushes makes a small radio transmitter.
We have probably all heard such noise on a AM radio?
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak
I bought one of those fans off e-bay . I attached 2 small L brackets to it and then bought 2 small spring clamps to hold it to the coil. I wired it into the fridge light hot wire ( the light switch makes to ground) so it runs as soon as you turn the fridge on. The only thing I don't like about this set up is the air blows into the coil so it exits out the bottom at the drain pan. This is on a dometic refer. Been using it 2 years now. I could probably reverse the wires on the motors so the air would blow the other way but it's been working fine, so I just left it alone.
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01-26-2011, 06:59 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azloafer
Just yesterday I was at the RV dealer getting my Norcold Recall taken care of. It is funny that you mention that tube that runs into a small evaporation tray. The end of the tube has a small plug with a hole in it. The service advisor was showing me the recall kit and mentioned that the tube plug should be cleaned and put back on. I asked if it needed that plug in the end and he said, "don't use it without that plug." I am not an expert on fridge drains, but there must be a reason for that special plug versus taking it off and leaving it off. I think I'll take his word for it.
Thanks and happy travels, Joe
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The only "plug" in ours was the one some mud daubers had put there...
Ours is a pretty small, 1/4 inch or so, diameter rubber hose down out and behind the refrigerator into a small catch basin - seen below to the right side of picture:
There, I guess it's supposed to evaporate - but there is also another small drain hose from that basin to the outside of the MH to drain if needed. No OEM plugs to be seen anywhere.
__________________
John Day....|'88 Winnebago Super Chief 27ft. Class A Eastern .....|'88 KIT model 240 24 ft. 5er Oregon ......|'02 Dodge/Cummins 2500 Quad Cab
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01-26-2011, 07:16 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,170
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Mine looks a little different, but the idea is the same. Although, I don't have an over-flow tube. The plug has a very small hole in it. I'll have to keep an eye on it so that it stays clean. Thanks, Joe
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 39W. Cummins ISB 6.7 Turbo 340HP. Allison 6 Speed. Freightliner XCS. Michelin XRV 255/80R 22.5 LRG. SuperSteer MCU. Safe-T-Plus.
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01-27-2011, 06:44 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 295
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Someone above just hit upon it
The end cap is called a "Duckbill" and it's sole purpose is to allow dripping water out, but, keep insects (sim. to mud daubers) from clogging the open hose end. If you have a "bare" pipe end.... any cap-like feature with a few small holes pierced into the end would do. Drill holes 3/32" dia. and make it a 6 month to-check item on your inspection list. (More frequent, if you have more dirty-road travel.)
BTW:Regarding the use of a compartment fan....As Gary said: an added bonus is the "minimize frost buildup on the cooling fins." A big plus, for me.
re: obtaining power from the compartment lamp... On my Dometic this "Single wire" hot wire run is a mere 3" vertical from fins & 3" horizontal across the ceiling. The ground wire, I connected to the fins' mounting bolt.(Not a bad-looking setup)
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01-27-2011, 07:22 AM
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#27
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
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These interior circulating fans are the best addition you can make to you RV frig. I have had them installed a couple of years now. We Full-Time so they are running 24/7 They are wired into the 12 volt DC "Always Hot" lug of the light/thermistor connector when the frig is turned on. The ground is established with the Alligator clip that holds the fan to the fins. They have nothing to do with the light going on or off. These fans are NOT 120 volt AC converted to 12 volt DC. The poster that stated that fact earlier is totally wrong.
The rear drain tube that travels down the backside of the frig is to drain the melted ice that may build up on the cooling fins inside the frig. There is generally a drain cup at the bottom rear of the frig to capture the water however, some units the drain cup is not used and the hose has been extended which travels down to underneath the coach. Mine does and the tube has been open since I have owned it. However, I am en-route to Florida and before I left, I went through the bottom of my coach to install Mud-Dauber screens in all of my drain tubes. That included the front and rear A/C drains, the Frig drain, the fresh water drain and the hot and cold water drains. I also installed Mud-Dauber screens on the exterior frig vent to prevent them from getting into the rear of the Norcold cavity.
Photos of the interior frig fans below.
Dr4Film ----- Richard.
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01-27-2011, 08:31 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 13,599
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Hi Everyone,
Go to Refrigerator 12 VDC Fan - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery and see what I did. It was an old P/C component fan (hard drive fan). They work great. For me, it was one of the few easy installs I've done.
__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
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