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Old 07-27-2015, 10:58 AM   #15
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First find and plan for replacement as plan b.

Check with local shops for tank welding or internal coating as plan a.

Drop the tank and pour any gas into gas cans as there will be some left.

5 gallon ones from wall mart work well.

Use a large funnel with coffee filter to see what is in there.

Next put some water in there and shake it and drain that through a filter to see if it is rusty.

Get a bore camera to look inside too.

If little or no rust then have it sealed back up.

Can be welded or coated.
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:52 PM   #16
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Thanks again for all of your great advice. I am still researching my options. I've called several radiator shops, RV and heavy truck repair shops and so far nobody will work on cleaning and repairing the existing tank. I'll keep searching but I might have to go with a plastic replacement tank? If you know of a shop in the Denver metro area, please let me know. Thanks!,
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:18 PM   #17
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I know what i would do. I would empty the gas out of the tank. take some light sand paper and clean up /rough up the area that is leaking. coat leaking area with JB weld. I have used JB weld on high pressure oil line going to filter in an automobile. Repair lasted for 4 years till I gave the car to stepson and he totaled it but the oil line never leaked. Cheap and easy fix. Hardest thing will be to empty tank

Option 2 same as above but get epoxy made specifically for fixing tanks. I fixed a leak on a plastic fuel tank on my tractor. Diesel tank I put the epoxy made for repairing plastic fuel tanks on it 5 years ago still does not leak.


Both fixes are in the ten dollar category. If it does not fix it not out a lot of money. Since you do not use this vehicle often why not try a cheap fix first.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:13 AM   #18
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I bought an old truck (born before I was), and the gas tank had become paper thin on the bottom, allowing gas to sort of "weep" through some micro holes.

No real resources, either money or technical, so I just kinda winged it...

Took off the gas tank, and had a shop Rhino Line the lower half of the outside. Ran it for a few years like that until I sold it. No issues.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by ga traveler View Post
If you can find a metal fabrication shop, your best bet is a stainless steel tank. (if you plan on keeping the motorhome) No more rust worries. I would also think about adding another twenty five gallons to the capacity, if you take long trips, as we do.
A stainless tank is going to cost a pile of money. The price of a 4' x 8 sheet of 18 gauge 316 is currently almost $300.00. By the time you have it formed and welded into a tank you're going to have a minimum of $800.00 to $1,000.00 invested.

As for making it larger than 75 gallons that also opens up a can of worms. The vapor recovery system is only certified for 75 gallons (80 gallons on the newer systems). If you have to have a state or local inspection the larger tank could cause problems.

Since you have to remove the tank regardless of which way you go I would lower it and have it inspected. If the shop thinks it can be repaired have it cleaned.

I was in the auto and truck repair business for many years. I removed and repaired literally hundreds of tanks on everything from construction machinery, to over the road trucks, to everyday passenger cars. The only ones that couldn't be repaired were those that sustained serious damage from an accident.

As mentioned earlier the most economical and successful way to seal a tank is to use a pour in gas tank liner. There are several on the market. Once the tank has been cleaned installing it can be a DIY job. Depending on how many coats you want to apply it could take a couple days. The repair should outlast the vehicle. I've never seen one leak. I can't believe you'll have more than $$200.00 dollars into a repair, as opposed to a $500.00 to a $1,000.00 replacement.
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:59 AM   #20
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After researching all options, I found a guy that does welding, fabrication, and various repairs. Other shops didn't really want to mess with it or they wanted a fortune. This shop removed the tank and cleaned it out. They couldn't find any failed welds but then they pressure tested the tank and found a couple of small cracks around the brackets that are welded to the tank. Apparently after years of pressure on those brackets, it developed some small cracks. He repaired those cracks and re welded the seams while the tank was out. He also coated the exterior with a black type of rhino paint and then reinstalled it. He double checked the fuel lines, etc. it only cost me a couple hundred dollars for all of his time and efforts. It's been leak free ever since and I am happy to put this problem behind me! I'm sure another maintenance item awaits me.
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Old 07-17-2016, 06:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inthe70s View Post
After researching all options, I found a guy that does welding, fabrication, and various repairs. Other shops didn't really want to mess with it or they wanted a fortune. This shop removed the tank and cleaned it out. They couldn't find any failed welds but then they pressure tested the tank and found a couple of small cracks around the brackets that are welded to the tank. Apparently after years of pressure on those brackets, it developed some small cracks. He repaired those cracks and re welded the seams while the tank was out. He also coated the exterior with a black type of rhino paint and then reinstalled it. He double checked the fuel lines, etc. it only cost me a couple hundred dollars for all of his time and efforts. It's been leak free ever since and I am happy to put this problem behind me! I'm sure another maintenance item awaits me.

Thanks for posting the resolution! So many times, these threads just die out with no update from the original poster and leave everyone hanging as to the outcome. Now get out there and USE THE COACH!
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