Originally Posted by DDMA
I just saw that. Just wanted to learn your technique. So in general, wherever clear was pulled you got all the way down to fiberglass then sealer, blend base and cleared? And how did you terminate towards where the trims were? I know on mine caulkings are also painted. Or so I think. I noticed you removed the caulking, painted and recaulked? One more question when you are breaking where different colors meet I suppose you scuffed exactly to that intersection? Any good tips doing that? Tape it and get right next to it? I am going to be doing this in the near future. I have painted before but never had to seriously blend anything this big or painted anything outside. Any tips for that? I apologize for all the questions but I finally found the RIGHT person to ask.
I don't mind at all. On the majority of the coaches the first color painted is the one that is the least amount. In my case the black was painted first, design masked, then the gray, mask and then the sandstone. Then the entire thing was clear coated. So when sanding you will hit the last color painted first, in my case the sandstone.
I sanded and went though the sandstone which I am painting the majority of. In a few spots I went through the gray and had to paint/blend depending on the area. The black for the most part I didn't even go through so I just used my small detail gun to touch up the couple of those areas.
At all of the edges such as the trim for the bedroom slide and the upper and lower moldings, I peeled the caulking back, sanded right into the void to ensure proper adhesion as well as coverage. Afterwards I will re-caulk with Geocel 2300 which is OEM for Monaco and I am sure many others. It is paintable but I chose to do it the way the factory did.
For the areas where I am painting and clearing up to an existing paint edge but not wanting to disturb it, I tape exactly on the line, then fold a piece of sandpaper and sand right up to the tape. Once I get the entire area sanded I blow it off, grab a gray Scotchbrite pad and scuff over the edge to just give it a last scuff prior to removing the masking tape. I use 3M blue fine line tape for a clean, crisp edge for the painting process though.
Let me reiterate two things. First I am not intentionally getting down to the fiberglass. It is not necessary. What is necessary however, is to get all of the peeling clearcoat off down to the paint. The paint is very thin in comparison to the clearcoat so just breathing over the paint with the DA sander once you get through the clear will go right through the base color and to the black color underneath and then to the OE sealer.
For sanding around the edges I fold some 400 grit paper and use a block out away from the trim or paint edge (whatever I am sanding up to) and then once I get a couple of inches away I switch over to the DA sander using 400 grit paper. Then it goes quite fast.
I hope that helps and when I am painting the next large section I will try to shoot a few more detailed pictures if I remember and think there is something that will help.