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Old 06-20-2014, 03:25 PM   #15
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My model is DUO-THERM 13.5 BTU MODEL 630035.321 prod 991721743

Ok, just got back from the storage yard and got to get some pictures. One cap is pretty much unreadable. Note what looks like a possible hot spot in for the form of a circle on the one cap.

The fan motor spins very well. No sign of leaking or burnt connections.

Now, I catch up and read the member posts since last evening. Have not had a chance until now.


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Old 06-21-2014, 09:32 AM   #16
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Do you have access to a multi-meter and know how to read the AC voltage going to the fan motor when it is supposed to be running?
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #17
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I called Camping World to ask if they had the start/run caps and they do not. I did get each cap part number and found them on Ebay. Bought start/runs for both AC units since I'm going to be on the roof. May as well do both. Cost was just over $100. I can live with that and take the chance it's not the caps.

Here are the part numbers if anyone is interested:

Dometic Part Numbers:

Hard Start Cap: 3311883000
Run Cap: 3313107003

FYI, the smaller cap is the hard start...the one with the little barrel shaped relay.
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:07 AM   #18
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Do you have access to a multi-meter and know how to read the AC voltage going to the fan motor when it is supposed to be running?
Yes, have a nice FLUKE meter. My brother in law was not available to help me test. In any case, not sure about all the wires on the run cap. I see the start cap has only two. How would I test the motor? There's a few wires coming out of the motor.
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:25 AM   #19
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Yes, have a nice FLUKE meter. My brother in law was not available to help me test. In any case, not sure about all the wires on the run cap. I see the start cap has only two. How would I test the motor? There's a few wires coming out of the motor.

Start at the fan motor and trace the wires back to their termination point. Check the AC voltage there when the fan is supposed to be on. If you are getting around 120 VAC, then the problem is most likely the fan motor itself or the capacitors. If you're not getting the 120 VAC voltage, then you could have a bad control board that is not turning on the voltage to the fan.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:25 PM   #20
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Got a chance to replace both start/run capacitors and relay. That fixed the problem and I now have a working front AC unit. Sure am glad this did not turn into another $1k plus fix.

Today was a good day!!

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Old 06-30-2014, 09:31 AM   #21
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Great! Glad you got the problem solved!
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:49 AM   #22
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Great! Glad you got the problem solved!
I ran both units all weekend long working on other things. Nice cool coach in 88 degree weather.

Thanks to all for the help.

Now, I can start setting the tile back down over the floor repair at the toilet and get going on a complete roof seam tape reseal with Eternabond...the main middle seam, the end caps, the ceiling vents...everything.

Bought 6" x 50' roll and am just going to prep the old surface with cleaner and a primer and tape right over the old tape that is about 4" wide.

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Old 06-30-2014, 04:48 PM   #23
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I ran both units all weekend long working on other things. Nice cool coach in 88 degree weather.

Thanks to all for the help.

Now, I can start setting the tile back down over the floor repair at the toilet and get going on a complete roof seam tape reseal with Eternabond...the main middle seam, the end caps, the ceiling vents...everything.

Bought 6" x 50' roll and am just going to prep the old surface with cleaner and a primer and tape right over the old tape that is about 4" wide.


You'll probably need some self-leveling sealant for the small openings such as vent pipes, etc. I would recommend the Dicor 502LSW for that!
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:49 PM   #24
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Glad everything is fixed with your AC unit. BUT - keep in mind what one of the other guys said: at 15 years old, you're near the end of AC life. My unit is a 98 winn. And had one AC unit that the fan didn't run. Had capacitors checked and they were good. Pulled fan motor and it had an open wire in it. Paid over $200 for new fan motor. 2 months later, compressor failed. At $600+ I put a new unit on roof ( Coleman ). BUT - had to buy new inside ceiling unit cuz the new AC unit had a different bolt pattern. Go Figure ! Was nearly another $100. So this year - rear AC unit compressor failed. After $800+ - have cool air now for the lovely DW.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:51 PM   #25
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You'll probably need some self-leveling sealant for the small openings such as vent pipes, etc. I would recommend the Dicor 502LSW for that!
I'm sure there will places the tape won't work with. I believe I have a tube of that from a repair I did last year to the toy hauler. Hope it's still good.

As for spending money on an old unit, I get that. But, the caps only cost me under $60 for the two. I'll take that chance any day of the week to see if I can squeeze another year or more out of the old units. I'm going to do the other AC unit this holiday weekend....

Happy 4th to all.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:34 PM   #26
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What a great sense of accomplishment it is to fix something!! Really shows the value of the forum that you were given the solution and directions for the repair.

Even more important than the age of a unit is the amount of use. If a coach has never been lived in and is not used for full-timing, it may have relatively low run hours on the A/C units and they could be fine. Good luck!!
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