Community Forums

Bad Bolt · 06-18-2014, 01:48 PM

Looks like the front unit AC has pooped out after 15 years of service. I am assuming it is the original.

By chance does anyone know what brand units Holiday Rambler would have used for a 99 DP coach and what would be a replacement?

Is this a job I could perform. I have done some minor house wiring when I gutted my living room and rewired it with new circuits.

Are these things just held on to the coach by four bolts and roof sealer, pretty much?

Any pitfalls, parts or kits that I should buy with a new unit?

Would love to save some cash and do it myself.

charliej · 06-18-2014, 01:53 PM

What's it doing? May just need a new part. Lot's of knowledgeable people on the forum.

Bad Bolt · 06-18-2014, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliej

What's it doing? May just need a new part. Lot's of knowledgeable people on the forum.

Well, it moans and slow hums like it's really trying to do something. Fan does not seem to be pushing air, yet, I get a very slight cool air sensation when I put my hand right up to the ceiling vent.

Then, sometimes it makes this last gasp sound and stops like a low letting of air pressure.

I did turn off my rear unit to give the front all the generator power available and noticed no change.

I did have new covers put on last spring.

charliej · 06-18-2014, 02:09 PM

Does the fan turn freely? Like you spin it and it keeps going some or stop pretty quickly? Does the noise seem to come from the fan or the compressor?

tricotec · 06-18-2014, 02:14 PM

It sounds like your fan motor has died but the compressor is still running. A new fan motor and capacitor installed would be far less than a new AC unit. The cool air you're feeling suggests that the compressor is still working. I suspect the unit is running for a while, then shutting down because the fan isn't allowing the unit to move heat, which overloads the compressor after a bit.

Get someone to look at the fan. I rebuilt one of mine in my garage and it is simple and parts are readily available, so you should be able to get this fixed.

charliej · 06-18-2014, 02:23 PM

I was thinking if the fan would spin freely, maybe just a new start capacitor. I just replaced my fan motor found it on amazon for $105 local parts store wanted more than twice that amount. Be very careful with the capacitor, they will hold a charge that could knock you off the roof, I have been told.

MSHappyCampers · 06-18-2014, 03:28 PM

It sounds like it would be either the fan motor or the start capacitor to me. I just replaced the Dometic heat pump in the LR and it's quite a job and VERY expensive compared to the cost of a new fan motor.

You can take the cover off and use a voltmeter to check the AC voltage to the fan motor while it is on but not moving air.

If you do decide to get a new unit I will go into detail on the problems I ran into, but maybe you can avoid that.

memphisflyer · 06-18-2014, 03:50 PM

On my 2000 Allegro Bay it was just the capacitor that was the problem. FWIW on mine (maybe all, I don't know) there is a start and a run capacitor and it could be either or both. I carefully removed the cover as well as the metal inside cover to reach the capacitors. I took them to my local AC supply and matched them up. About $20 and an hour to do. Mine was doing pretty much what you d describe but now has run perfect for two years. Good luck and do exercise caution with the capacitors.

MSHappyCampers · 06-18-2014, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memphisflyer

On my 2000 Allegro Bay it was just the capacitor that was the problem. FWIW on mine (maybe all, I don't know) there is a start and a run capacitor and it could be either or both. I carefully removed the cover as well as the metal inside cover to reach the capacitors. I took them to my local AC supply and matched them up. About $20 and an hour to do. Mine was doing pretty much what you d describe but now has run perfect for two years. Good luck and do exercise caution with the capacitors.

What he's referring to is that the capacitors store an electrical charge after the unit is turned off and can give you quite a jolt! Be sure the AC power is off to the A/C units, then short across the capacitor terminals with a screwdriver to discharge them.

Bad Bolt · 06-18-2014, 07:15 PM

Well then, I guess I have some investigating to do this weekend.

I would really rather just fix the unit and not pay Lord knows what for a new unit.

I'll post back what I find this weekend. I still am wrapping up my toilet floor damage repair. I think I can at least find some time to take a look and take some pictures and assess.

Hooligan · 06-18-2014, 09:17 PM

My run capacitor went out in 2012, basically the same symptoms. Very easy to tell which one was bad, removed the ac shroud and metal cover, capacitor was fat, split and leaking... I think part was +-$40.

wa8yxm · 06-19-2014, 12:00 PM

Short answer: First determine the make and model To do this you might try removing the inner cover (Remove intake filters you should see a total of 4 screws on most units, Remove 4 screws and the inner cover should come down, Clean filters and cover while you have it down)

Look up into the unit and you should see a label, most A/C's it's in there.

NOW; Even if the A/C maker is out of business, odds are someone makes a compatible top unit.

From the point I just left you.. unplug one or two wires that connects the top unit to the bottom unit, Remove 4 bolts.

Now repair to the roof, with help.. Lift the top unit on and carefully lower it to the ground. Carefully lift new unit to roof, Inspect gasket, if needed replace, lower new unit onto gasket, have help line up the holes, insert 4 bolts, and tighten to spec, Re-connect cables and test, reinstall inner cover fand filters.

NOTE: on mine, since the OEM no longer makes RV A/Cs I had to use and adapter for the electrical, this involved replacing one MOLEX connector and the attached pigtail, it was all in the kit.. Very easy for me, not so much for the dealer's tech. (I am more into electronics).

bruceisla · 06-19-2014, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Bolt

Well then, I guess I have some investigating to do this weekend.

I would really rather just fix the unit and not pay Lord knows what for a new unit.

I'll post back what I find this weekend. I still am wrapping up my toilet floor damage repair. I think I can at least find some time to take a look and take some pictures and assess.

My 97 Endeavor had a Dometic unit. If you have an original, think carefully about repair vs. replace. At 15 years, yours is probably near end-of-life. A new top unit will cost about $400. Have look at your wall thermostat and count the buttons. If it's a 4-button that's gonna' be a problem for replacement ... if it's a 5-button life is easier. Total time for replacement is about 3 hours at a reasonable pace. Unit weighs about 75-100 lbs so think about how you will get it to the roof.

bruceisla · 06-19-2014, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Bolt

Well then, I guess I have some investigating to do this weekend.

I would really rather just fix the unit and not pay Lord knows what for a new unit.

I'll post back what I find this weekend. I still am wrapping up my toilet floor damage repair. I think I can at least find some time to take a look and take some pictures and assess.

BTW, I can pretty much guarantee all of the sealing tape for the airbox/ducts (in both your units) has come loose and will need to be replaced. In addition, your ductwork where it meets the airbox has probably collapsed.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/a-c-d...ab-162093.html

This is not directly related to your symptoms but has an affect on A/C efficiency.