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Old 03-20-2019, 10:59 PM   #1
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Replacing a microwave/convection oven

We have to replace a broken microwave/convection oven in our 1998 National Tropical. The current convection oven is 825 watts. Do i need to worry about damaging the electrical system if i replace the broken oven with a 1000 watt oven? Our RV is a 30 amp. The oven is on a 20 amp circuit. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:14 PM   #2
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20A is 20x120=2400W

So breaker and wiring is OK.

825 and 1000 are pretty close. With 30A you're still looking at the "2 big ones" rule. (2 out of AC/MICRO/Water Heater if electric/Any kind of electric heat.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:03 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum.

You should be OK.. Are you installing a convection/Microwave? If so, be sure to install any ducting to ventilate the oven.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:05 AM   #4
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Welcome to the forum.

You should be OK.. Are you installing a convection/Microwave? If so, be sure to install any ducting to ventilate the oven.
I have a convection/microwave factory installed. There is no ducting. It works fine.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srvt View Post
We have to replace a broken microwave/convection oven in our 1998 National Tropical. The current convection oven is 825 watts. Do i need to worry about damaging the electrical system if i replace the broken oven with a 1000 watt oven? Our RV is a 30 amp. The oven is on a 20 amp circuit. Thanks for the help.
No problem at all.
With both ac's running on shore power, along with other things, your EMS probably sheds part of the load temporarily, anyway.
With ours, I set it up, so that it would only shed the ac's and nothing else, which is usually sufficient for any scenario.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:44 AM   #6
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Many report their microwaves "broken" and then simply replace the internal fuse that sometimes blows... varies by model, of course. Bless Google.

Just sayin'
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:57 PM   #7
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I recently had to fix ours. It would cut out and wiggling the plug, hard to access as it was up and behind the unit, would bring it back. But performance was bad, slow cooking etc. I determined it was the power cord or wall receptacle. Turned out what I thought was corrosion was melted. Either a loose ground or hot wire fused the plug and receptacle. Replaced both and all fixed. Start with the simple and work up on fixing.
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Old 03-21-2019, 01:36 PM   #8
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I had to replace the microwave in our 1996 Southwind last year. It was an 800 watt unit also, I replaced it with a Dometic DCMG11B.F 1000 watt convection microwave oven that I found at Camping World. It was the only one I could find that was close to the size that would fit my cabinets. I still had to make some modifications to the cabinet, mounting hardware and venting to make it fit. I also have a 30 amp service and have hand no problems.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:21 PM   #9
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I did it, works fine. 20 amp circuit will handle it fine. Household kitchen microwave circuits are 20 amps.

While your original microwave was 850 watts you have to remember the electric element draws quite a bit too and if you are browning and microwaving at the same time it's pulling more than the 850 watts - probably more than 1000 watts total.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:08 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Domo View Post
Many report their microwaves "broken" and then simply replace the internal fuse that sometimes blows... varies by model, of course. Bless Google.

Just sayin'
Ours made a terrible noise, before blowing the internal fuse.
The good news was, that I was able to change it, by removing the tops grille.
The bad news was, that it blew again and turned out to be a faulty capacitor, that caused it.
It's now installed in our home, since a new new one was installed in the coach, while on the road, with the original traveling back home in the toad.
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Old 03-27-2019, 04:21 PM   #11
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A Convection / Microwave oven with a cooking power of 1000 watts has an input wattage of 1700 watts which equates to 15 amps so your 20 amp circuit should be OK.
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Old 03-28-2019, 01:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tropical36 View Post
Ours made a terrible noise, before blowing the internal fuse.
The good news was, that I was able to change it, by removing the tops grille.
The bad news was, that it blew again and turned out to be a faulty capacitor, that caused it.
It's now installed in our home, since a new new one was installed in the coach, while on the road, with the original traveling back home in the toad.
Good job!
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