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Old 09-07-2016, 05:06 PM   #1
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Replacing both AC Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36Z

Hello all, read a bunch of the AC threads, and learned a lot. I am considering replacing both my front and back roof ac's (ducted) on my rv. This rv is only 30amp svc, and both a/c's are controlled by a central thermostat that sheds the load between the two a/c's to keep the draw below available amps. My rear ac quit last year (just hums). Both cooled ok I guess, not too good, plus they are original units from 1997 when the rv was new. I did purchase a couple of after-market quick-start capacitors that I plan to install 1 on each ac, then see if the back unit comes on again, but if they continue to be problematic, its seems cheaper to just replace them both. My question is, I think the rear is a 10Kbtu, and the front is a 12K btu unit. I see lots of 13.5 and 15 K btu units for sale everywhere, and several of these claim they have a low-amp draw. Since the thermostat sheds power (fan stays on but power between compressors is swapped back and forth)between the front and rear ac, anything special I need to know before choosing replacement ac units. I know they all fit the hole, its the power swaping feature that worries me. All advice is greatly appreciated... Thanks

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Old 09-14-2016, 11:03 PM   #2
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I have 2 13,500 btu units on my '97 PAV. they work fine, but i want to replace them with the newer, more efficient 15,000 btu units with heat pumps ( to eliminate the noisy propane heater and duct work under everything). From research I've done, it seems the older MH's would benefit from new, better technology. Good luck on your update!

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Old 09-23-2016, 03:37 PM   #3
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Spartan Chassis
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Originally Posted by Mikenrustie View Post
I have 2 13,500 btu units on my '97 PAV. they work fine, but i want to replace them with the newer, more efficient 15,000 btu units with heat pumps ( to eliminate the noisy propane heater and duct work under everything). From research I've done, it seems the older MH's would benefit from new, better technology. Good luck on your update!
Yes this is the way to go. The 13.5k units don't put out enough cooling in temps above 100* and the new 15K units are very efficient an have a low amp draw. I just replace my rear unit in Boise this summer with a hi efficiency 15k unit. It blows ice cubes compared to the 13.5K unit in the salon.

Craig & Carolyn Roberts Apple Valley, CA
2006 Newmar 3910 KSDP 400 ISL Cummins Spartan Mountian Master Chassis
Toad: 2010 Chevy Colorado 4X4
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:07 AM   #4
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I would check the full load amp draw on the units first. If you look on the unit specs you will find the total current pulled under full load. You may find they pull less current then your old units.

My original units on my ole Bounder pull 13.5 amps each.
1999 Bounder 34J, V-10, F53 chassis, Banks Power System, Safe T Plus Steering Control.
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:28 PM   #5
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Sounds like a plan. Optimally, I'd like a new 15k up front, and a new 13.5K in the rear, both with the lowest amp draw possible. I also was looking at a few of the 30 to 50amp conversion posts, and they seem really to pinpoint the dual a/c amp problem. When done, basically, the rear a/c is now on a separate line and there is no need to "shed" power when both a/c's are running. I might go that route later on as it is more involved. For now, am waiting for the rv to come out of the shop where I had to have the Auto-Brake hydraulic system repaired. Thanks for the input... you all have been very helpful. One other question, new a/c are listed as ducted or ductless. My rv uses ducts for the whole system, do I have to get a new unit designed for a duct system, or will any work then just not use the included inside faceplate w/controls that come with ductless units?....
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