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Old 08-23-2014, 04:52 PM   #141
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Thanks to Ernie, Virago-Rider, and others, I solved my problem! I tapered the leading edge of the underlayment and drove it to just under the metal bar, sunk a couple of screws in the other end, and brought the slide in. Underlayment stayed in place, and the slide retracted smoothly. Then the test: I extended the slide out and the "crunching" sound at the last 4" to 6" was gone! Lesson learned: when you extend the slide and remove the carpet, if you're not immediately installing the new tile, be sure to put something back where the carpet was before retracting the slide! Otherwise, when you extend the slide, something (plastic piece?) will get hung up just before the slide is fully extended.

BTW, I moved the slide in and out several times and saw NO MARKS ON the underlayment; however, when I get the new tile installed, I think I will still use two or three Allure planks to keep the metal bar off the tile.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:52 AM   #142
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Hello Navigator336,

To access the strip that the slide rides on run your slide all the way out then bring it back in about 6 or 8 inches. The "slide box" should have about 2 inches of clearance on the top. Use a "jimmy bar" with a block of wood to raise each end of the slide. Raise each end as high as it will go and shove a wedge under the slide to hold it up in position. This should give you just enough room to remove the old carpet. To remove the carpet start pulling from one end (mine pulled easiest from the front) and fold the carpet over onto its self and pull to the side. Some of the staples will stay in the wood but most will come out. I put in Allure so when I glued the carpet to the runner the slide had the same spacing to ride on. I assume you are replacing the carpet with some sort of vinyl. This presents another challenge. To place the vinyl under the slide I pieced together the floor into a section large enough to slide up under the slide. This has to be cut to fit the part of the floor that goes to the edge of the outer wall of the coach. This also allows you to place the vinyl over the beveled piece that lifts and holds the slide in place. I glued down all of the flooring that would be under the slide when it is retracted so that it would not move. All the rest of the flooring floats. The floating floor eliminates the problem of expansion and contraction and spaces developing between the planks. We have been in temps of 18 degrees to 97 degrees and have had no problems with the flooring developing spaces. Be reminded that we used Allure and that the planks have their own glue strips. I hope this helps. This was a good sized project but we got it done in less than a week. There have been comments about Allure not being suitable for use on a coach but ours is over a year old and still looks as good as the day we put it down.
Ralph
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:58 PM   #143
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Thanks Ralph. I installed Allure in a utility/storage area at my house about 3 years ago. The temperature extremes are not too large there, but the heater, air condition and water heater are located in the area. The sales guy at Home Depot tried to convince me not to buy it as they had lots of complaints and returns. In reading reviews on it, it appeared to me the people who had problems did not properly align the edges and definitely did not apply enough pressure on the adhesive joints. When I put it down I used a laminate roller to focus a lot of pressure almost exclusively on the adhesive joint. My storage area floor was way out of level with several abrupt transitions. I found the Allure conformed to the irregularities very well. After 3 years it looks as good as when I installed it so in my opinion the product is very good.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:01 PM   #144
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Thanks Ralph. I installed Allure in a utility/storage area at my house about 3 years ago. The temperature extremes are not too large there, but the heater, air condition and water heater are located in the area. The sales guy at Home Depot tried to convince me not to buy it as they had lots of complaints and returns. In reading reviews on it, it appeared to me the people who had problems did not properly align the edges and definitely did not apply enough pressure on the adhesive joints. When I put it down I used a laminate roller to focus a lot of pressure almost exclusively on the adhesive joint. My storage area floor was way out of level with several abrupt transitions. I found the Allure conformed to the irregularities very well. After 3 years it looks as good as when I installed it so in my opinion the product is very good.

Photo please?


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Old 08-25-2014, 05:16 PM   #145
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Here are some pics. This is a storage area so please disregard the highly organized arrangement of important "stuff".
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:30 PM   #146
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Wow, looks great


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:55 AM   #147
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Is this what you mean by having carpet on the slide out floor with hard surface flooring on the main floor?
Beautiful My wife wants to do our and all I see are $$$$.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:00 AM   #148
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or- if you want engineered wood on your slide
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Old 10-12-2014, 06:43 PM   #149
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Ernie,

That is a beautiful job. The miters on the trim look perfect. What does the slide ride on when it comes in? Is the engineered wood glued in on the slide or floating and held by the trim?

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:18 PM   #150
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Bob- every engineered wood job I do is adhered with urethane adhesive. It stays put- doesn't move, shrink, sound cheap and hollow- just solid as a rock. Thank you for the compliment.
Yes- it is more expensive. But at my age- 67- I'm done with doing stuff cheap. My opinion- your mileage will be more than mine- I get 6.7
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:28 PM   #151
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i like how it truned out and I to may have to do it this way to fix what some one else did on my RV floor
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:35 PM   #152
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Terry- tell us about your avitar
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:45 PM   #153
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or- if you want engineered wood on your slide
Nice!, Come do mine for Diesel $$ ...
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:51 PM   #154
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I'm not travelling for work, anymore. Everyone is making the trip here
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