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Old 08-02-2014, 09:02 AM   #113
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Just for old time's sake, I sat down and read through this entire post again. With the benefit of hindsight (20/20 as we all know), I was struck by several things.
1. I am an idiot. Now, I have known this for years. Most of the projects I have attempted have started with no more planning than "I think I can do this." There have always been moments of wondering what in the heck I have gotten myself into, but they mostly turn out ok. This one was no different, but I didn't get to finish it myself. To those of you who are contemplating replacing the floor of your coach, you really need to figure out what to do with your slides before you get too involved. And prepare to be flexible, because what you uncover may be different from what you thought you were going to find.
2. Working on these things is fun. I am in the process of replacing the kitchen faucet (note to self, winterize better this year) and the monster tube TV in the front. I love it!
3. This forum is an invaluable tool to inspired idiots like myself. I've said it before, but many thanks to the advice, encouragement, and humor that y'all have offered during this process.
4. I really like the way my coach turned out.

Until next time....
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:22 PM   #114
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Can anyone tell me if it is better to do the allure at 45 degree angles or straight down middle, and why?


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Old 08-02-2014, 06:46 PM   #115
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And prepare to be flexible, because what you uncover may be different from what you thought you were going to find.
This is a quote from Jeff.
I absolutely agree: you must have a Plan B for this box that rolls down the road.
Installing flooring length wise, 45 degree or on the ceiling- its' up to your personal preference.
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:33 PM   #116
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I was going to install an Allure Floor also. I read on the Allure site that it is not recommened for RV's and trailers due to climate changes hot to cold etc. respond to GJ5298@comcast.net Thanks Gus
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:36 PM   #117
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I chose not to install Allure for that reason, and because Ernie said not to. There are several people on here who have done it and it worked out fine. There are several people on here who have done it and had issues.
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:25 AM   #118
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I did engineered wood, not allure after research and advice from a pro named Ernie. Search for my thread to see job. I did the entire coach including bedroom and would do it all again. Floor is holding up very well, but I did intentionally choose a distressed floor to hide future distress.

Too many allure horror stories for me. Honestly, to do this right is VERY labor intensive, don't go cheap on materials!!!!

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Old 08-04-2014, 07:13 AM   #119
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I'm learning so much here. Thanks!


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Old 08-14-2014, 11:54 PM   #120
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Anyone used Armstrong's ALTERNA tile?

I'm taking the advice of many that have posted on this subject and have planned this project for weeks; now I'm getting ready to tackle the job!. Our coach is a 2008 Itasca Meridian 37H with two slides. I plan to replace all the 16x16 vinyl tile, all the carpet in the driver cockpit, and all the carpet under the driver's side slide. All the carpet in the bedroom stays, as does the carpet under the co-pilot seat. Carpet on top of the driver's side slide stays as well. When the project is complete and the driver's side slide is extended, all the walking surfaces become tile. This is the main reason why I'm tackling this project, as trying to keep the existing off-white carpet clean is an impossible job!

I'm not entirely sure about how the slide rides over the flooring when it's being retracted, but it seems to me that if I place a piece of carpet on top of the new tile, the tile will be protected when I retract the slide. True or not? I've tried to find "roller marks" on the existing carpet, but all I can ever see is the depression along the entire length of the slide that's made by the curved "plate" when the slide has been fully retracted. Once I've removed the carpet, but before I've laid any new tiles, I plan to run the slide in and out and look for marks on the plywood subfloor. Any other suggestions?

Does anyone see any "fatal flaws" in what I'm planning to do here?
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:09 AM   #121
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looks like a good plan
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:03 AM   #122
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Steps

We are trying to decide what to use on the top step where it meets the floor, we tried a piece of trim but it is not going to last...any ideas?
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:13 AM   #123
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Not seeing any marks of the subfloor isn't a guarantee that there won't be marks when the tile is added, thus increasing the floor height a bit. But if the new flooring is not as thick (tall) as the carpet you remove, you should be OK.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:20 AM   #124
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step

AUPOP, are you talking about the step riser that joins the main floor? My rig has a metal trim that covers the edge of the main floor where it joins the step.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:36 AM   #125
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foam glue

We too are removing our carpet and getting new....working today up by the driver area/dog house...the foam is glued to the metal flooring. Anyone (Ernie!) have a product that helps release it? I'm only getting it up in 1" pieces & there is a ton! I've tried a flat spatula thingy with a blade on it, but even it isnt' helping. Any advice from those who are finished with the rip out stage?! thanks!!

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Old 08-15-2014, 10:41 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcosgrove View Post
AUPOP, are you talking about the step riser that joins the main floor? My rig has a metal trim that covers the edge of the main floor where it joins the step.

Hi John, yes...when we pulled the carpet, it was stapled arounf the edges. We encased the stairs with the wood, but the edge between the coach floor and the step is the challange. We tried a piece of corner molding, but it is not standing up to the traffic...we are hesitant to apply more staples
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