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Old 09-05-2011, 05:30 PM   #1
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Replacing Dash AC Blower Motor, 1990 Southwind

1990 Southwind 28' on Chevy P37 w/ Evans Blend Air System. After checking everything, determined AC/Heater blower motor is defective. 12v on black wire, gnd on white. About a year ago it stopped and I tapped it with a small hammer to get it started again. Removed the glove box to get a visual on the motor from inside the coach. While this would be a straightforward job in most cars and coaches, this year Southwind has no clearance between the end of the motor and the kick panel on the passengers side. Even if I take off the mounting bolts, there's not enough room to pull the motor back to get it out of the housing. In looking from the outside with hood open, it looks like the whole AC/Heater box could be unbolted and maybe slipped forward enough to get the motor out. So, has someone actually made a fan motor replacement in this year Southwind? I suspect it is similar in a 1988-1992 Southwind and Pace Arrow. I just need to know where to start. From inside of the coach, or from outside? Any additional tips if you have done this appreciated.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:01 PM   #2
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I have replaced several motors. All of the panels in front of the passenger seat, come out. Most have a screw hidden in the carpet or covering. after removing the fasteners, the panel will pull out and the motor is easy to replace. Many of the motors have a ground strap. Make sure you have a good ground! (the housing is plastic and will not ground.)
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:44 PM   #3
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Thanks GA TRAVELER. I discovered after I posted that there is a panel in front of the motor that can be removed. It is covered by carpet so I am trying to decide if I need to peel off the carpet, or try to get to the screw heads through the carpet. The carpet is stapled in so it would be fairly easy to peel it back. Any further tips appreciated and thanks for getting me on the right track. I'll post some additional info when I get the job completed.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgbevan View Post
Thanks GA TRAVELER. I discovered after I posted that there is a panel in front of the motor that can be removed. It is covered by carpet so I am trying to decide if I need to peel off the carpet, or try to get to the screw heads through the carpet. The carpet is stapled in so it would be fairly easy to peel it back. Any further tips appreciated and thanks for getting me on the right track. I'll post some additional info when I get the job completed.
If you carefully use a ice pick or other pointed tool, you can probe for the screws and keep the carpet in place. good luck.
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Old 09-07-2011, 04:59 AM   #5
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Update: Where To Get The Motor

After trading several emails with Evans, it looks like this is not an AC unit they manufactured. They said it is probably a company called "Frigi Cool" or "SCS/Frigi Cool". I have a few 800 numbers but not sure they are still in business. Some identifying characteristics of the motor;
1. The mounting flange has an irregular shape; not round.
2. There is a cooling tube that brings cool air back into the motor casing.
3. The power hookup is through two spade lug connectors that are mounted on the outside of the flange
4. I looked cruised some sites of blower motor suppliers and a picture on an AC/Delco PDF file has a motor #15-8855 that looks very close.
5. It is a single shaft motor, not double shaft.

If I can't find a replacement, I may see if someone local can rebuild it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:25 PM   #6
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Got The Blower Motor Replaced

This information might be useful for other Southwind and Pace Arrow coaches of this vintage. With a little help from ga traveler @ irv2.com getting started, I was able to replace the fan motor. I also found out since my original post that the in-dash AC/Heater unit is not made by Evans. It is the factory unit installed by GM/Chevy when they built the P37 chassis for Fleetwood.

Here are some of the details for replacing the in-dash AC/Heater blower motor.

1a. I pulled the glove box just to get a little more operating room. The easy way is to compress each hinge bracket one at a time while pulling the box and hinge pin forward. A brake adjustment tool was just right this job.

1b. Before you tear everything apart, you can verify that the fan motor is the problem and not some other electrical item in the circuit. Looking in through the glove box, you can see the white(gnd) and black(+12 vdc) wires. Using your voltmeter, verify that there is +12v or where the black wire connects to the spade lug that is mounted on the motor. (Key on, fan switch to hi, Vent) You can reach the spade connector because it is above the ground connector. If there is 12v, then verify the ground is OK by measuring for any voltage on the metal motor case. (Scrape off some of the paint to get a good connection.) If the motor case has 12v or any substantial voltage, then the ground connection is not good and you need to track down the problem in the ground circuit(white wire.

2. You access the fan motor from inside the coach by removing part of the kick panel that is in front of the passenger's seat. Take off the big vent grill and pull out the smaller round one. I decided to peel back the carpet that covered the panel. The carpet piece runs from the motor box to the far right side and from the floor to the dash. The carpet was stapled to the 1/2 plywood so use you own judgement in removing each individual staple by hand, vs tearing the carpet away from the staple.

3. Once you get the carpet completely off, you can see the plywood access panel. There is probably a hole drilled to accomodate a bump on the back of the motor. Remove any screws holding the panel in place. The panel has an aluminum trim piece at the top that remains attached. On my coach, the panel was tight against the floor and the floor carpet butted against it. When you pull the panel forward so you can pull it down from the dash lip, it runs into the floor carpet and the right side trim panel. After thinking about it a while, I decided to cut the panel into two pieces right at the upper line of the big vent hole. You're kind of on your own to figure how to make the cut on the right side up against the side panel. I slipped a wide putty knife between the plywood access panel and the side panel to protect the side panel while sawing with a key hole saw.

4. Now you have enough vertical room to pull the panel down from under the dash. This takes a little jiggling and maybe pulling on the dash a bit. When you get the panel out the rest is easy. Just take the screws out of the fan motor and pull it out. The part number on my fan motor was PM 105 which a standard GM/Chevy item and was available at O'Reilly's for $15.

5. Now just put everything back together the way it came apart. I put an extra couple of screws in the access panel and I also put a short 1 x 2 furring strip on the far right side to give the panel something to mount to. It's probably just fine without the extras because it is only for a surface to mount the carpet. Use your own judgement in reinstalling the carpet. If you have a stapler that shoots the narrow staples, great, If not, you could also glue it back in place.

Thought I would get these details recorded while things were still fresh. If you have any questions I can help with, email me at bgbevan@earthlink.net
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