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Old 02-15-2013, 01:11 PM   #15
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Thanks to all for your solutions and help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beowulf2 View Post
Just finished replacing all eight springs on four HWH AP29964, 12000 lbs x 13" straight down leveling jacks on a 2005 KSDP with the new style part # R92642.

As a side note: The jacks were ordered from HWH on Monday and they arrived on Thursday. “Great Service“

The first step was to determine the easiest ans safest way to remove the old springs and install the new springs.
The two anchor holes for the springs on the HWH jacks were measured. The holes were about 17” apart. The replacement springs measured about 14 ½” between the spring ends. This meant that the new springs had to be stretched about 2 ½“ for installation.

The best and safest option was to make a spring stretcher.

If the spring was stretched there would be less fighting, prying and it would also be safer for installation of the springs.

Spring Stretcher Parts
2 - 3/8 all thread
4 - 3/8 nuts
2 - 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 1/16 angle iron with 3/8 round holes 3” apart
Cut the all thread rods 14 ½” long
Cut the angle iron 4” long

Note: Do not cut the all thread rods no longer the spring coils excluding the spring hooks. If the rods are too long they will interfere with the connecting the springs to the holes on the jacks.

Attachment 22694

Step 1
Stretching the spring
Spread the spring about two coils below the tapered part of the spring and install the two angles one at each end.
Positing the clips on the opposite side of the spring anchor opening particularly the top anchor point.
Now stretch the spring - this takes the longest time but after it is done and the first spring is installed it will be well worth the time spent.

Attachment 22695

Attachment 22696


Step 2
Motor Home and HWH Levelers
Keep the motor home air bags full and at the normal driving height
The jacks were left in the stored position. There is not need to operate the jacks until all the springs are replaced.

Step 3
Removing the first old spring on one leveler.
Position a small hydraulic bottle jack under the leveler foot pad on the side of the spring to be removed. Extend the bottle jack which will tilt the foot pad and loosen the old spring. The old spring can then be remove will minimal effort which will save a lot of knuckles a frustration.

Attachment 22697

Install the stretched spring to the top of the jack be sure the angle iron at the top is to the opposite side of the spring anchor opening.
The stretched spring is now longer than the tilted foot pad. Slowly lower the bottle jack and slide the new spring into the foot pad anchor hole.

DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRING STRETCHER AT THIS POINT

Attachment 22698

Slide the bottle jack to the old spring side which is tilted up. Raise the bottle jack putting a slight pressure on the foot pad under to old existing spring and the new spring.

Attachment 22699

Now the spring stretcher can easily and safely be remove. It can be removed either by backing the 3/8 nuts off or just by knocking the stretcher out.

Attachment 22700

The new spring will try to contract but the bottle jack will keep the foot pad at an angle and prevent things from flying all over the place.
Slowly lower the bottle jack and the foot pad will return to a semi level position.

Attachment 22701


Attachment 22702

Attachment 22703

Step 4
Removing the Second old spring
Repeat step 3
Be sure to move the bottle jack as necessary.

Thanks to all for your solutions, especially Beowulf2 for the detailed instructions and pictures - you must have been a teacher or military man.
The project does not look so daunting now.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:12 PM   #16
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Thanks to all for your submissions and instructions - they have been most helpful and should make the job much easier now.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:32 PM   #17
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A parts guy told me to grasp both sides of the pad and pull down and to the side. This frees the pad from the cylinder. Replace springs easily with no tension on them. I had to do this when replacing a cylinder and it worked great. Got the pad and springs out of my way while un-bolting the cylinder. Putting it all back on after was just as easy. Jacks are HWH 9000lb.

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by davecarter View Post
Thanks to all for your solutions, especially Beowulf2 for the detailed instructions and pictures - you must have been a teacher or military man.
The project does not look so daunting now.
I was a pipefitter (heating and air conditioning) by trade which required a job to be analized for the safest and easiest way to complete a job.

Also, retire Army National Guard 29 years.

Glad my instructions helped.

Dwight LTC ARNG retired
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72driver View Post
A parts guy told me to grasp both sides of the pad and pull down and to the side. This frees the pad from the cylinder. Replace springs easily with no tension on them. I had to do this when replacing a cylinder and it worked great. Got the pad and springs out of my way while un-bolting the cylinder. Putting it all back on after was just as easy. Jacks are HWH 9000lb.

Don
I did that same thing with our HWH 12,000# units when a pad came off after being frozen to the ground. Hardly even got my hands dirty.
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:07 AM   #20
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I replaced a set of springs on our coach yesterday using spring stretchers we made yesterday. They made the job much easier. Thanks to Beowulf2 for the idea.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:35 AM   #21
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Replaced all the springs using the Beowulf2 method.It was easy and safe. Now the jacks all retract in less than two minutes. However, they still inch down enough to sound the alarm when we hit rough roads. Don't know what to do about that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:39 AM   #22
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Replaced all the springs using the Beowulf2 method.It was easy and safe. Now the jacks all retract in less than two minutes. However, they still inch down enough to sound the alarm when we hit rough roads. Don't know what to do about that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
You might be better off than you think. We can start our coach with the jacks all the way down and no alarm. Adding that to the list of to do.

An RV tech did tell me that low hydraulic fluid might cause a jack down alarm. No personal experience though.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:12 AM   #23
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You might be better off than you think. We can start our coach with the jacks all the way down and no alarm. Adding that to the list of to do.

An RV tech did tell me that low hydraulic fluid might cause a jack down alarm. No personal experience though.
Thanks for the comment. You alarm may not sound because the fuse was removed or burnt. I removed mine a year ago and intended to put it back if the new springs corrected the problem. The fuse is still removed.

Our previous NRV hydraulic jack system had a float switch in the oil reservoir and would sound an alarm if all the oil had not returned to the reservoir when some jacks didn't fully retract or if the oil level was low. I liked this better than the HWH system that uses a switch on each jack.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:46 PM   #24
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On our HWH jacks we let the auto store "cycle" complete fully and let it turn off itself. We found that if we turn off prematurally immediately after the red lights go off that sometimes the jacks can come off the "up" switches. After checking the jacks move up appx. another 1/2" AFTER they make the up switches. FWIW we are on our original springs on a 1999 coach.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:29 PM   #25
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On our HWH jacks we let the auto store "cycle" complete fully and let it turn off itself. We found that if we turn off prematurally immediately after the red lights go off that sometimes the jacks can come off the "up" switches. After checking the jacks move up appx. another 1/2" AFTER they make the up switches. FWIW we are on our original springs on a 1999 coach.
Good point. I've become a bit paranoïd after burning two solenoids and fear leaving the retract switch "on" after the red lights have turned "off".... even if it's supposed to be on a timer. I guess there's only one way to find out. Thanks for your input.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:06 AM   #26
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On ours I just levered the pad off to the side, replaced the springs and levered it back on. I was surprised how easy it was to do.
Thats how mine were just done
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