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Old 03-10-2006, 10:23 AM   #1
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You guys have been great in answering our questions during the selections process. Now that we own a new MH it's time for the newbie procedural and technical questions:

Our driveway is sloped to level coach the front wheels must be lifted off the ground. I fully understand that that is a no no.

Question 1: What type of ramps do you use and why?

I was thinking of using 2x8x10' cut to the following lengths; 39", 31", 23", 15" to stack for ramps which would leave a 12" block for the leveler pads. I'm planning on 4 sets.

Question 2: The coach electrical service is 50 Amps.

Currently I'm plugged into a 120V 15A shore power service. The only thing that I'm running is a notebook computer, entertainment stuff and the heater.

The technician at the RV dealer suggested having at least a dedicated 120V 30A RV service installed.

What is the difference between normal house wiring and RV wiring?

I'm pretty handy and can do house wiring. Where can I find a 120V 30A RV wiring diagram?

Question 3: The front wheel covers are very noisy. The dealer said they were over tightened and readjusted. Didn't work. I attached four adhesive rubberized dots to the inside edge on the caps and reinstalled. That worked initially. After driving down the road for about twenty miles they started making noise again.

Your thoughts please.

Question 4: There is a flat plastic latch that is used to hold the entry door open when parked. That thing rattles around in the wind while driving.

Any tricks that you guys use to keep it from flopping around?

Elaine suggested a small strip of Velcro.

Well that's it for now.

Thanks

Jim
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:23 AM   #2
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You guys have been great in answering our questions during the selections process. Now that we own a new MH it's time for the newbie procedural and technical questions:

Our driveway is sloped to level coach the front wheels must be lifted off the ground. I fully understand that that is a no no.

Question 1: What type of ramps do you use and why?

I was thinking of using 2x8x10' cut to the following lengths; 39", 31", 23", 15" to stack for ramps which would leave a 12" block for the leveler pads. I'm planning on 4 sets.

Question 2: The coach electrical service is 50 Amps.

Currently I'm plugged into a 120V 15A shore power service. The only thing that I'm running is a notebook computer, entertainment stuff and the heater.

The technician at the RV dealer suggested having at least a dedicated 120V 30A RV service installed.

What is the difference between normal house wiring and RV wiring?

I'm pretty handy and can do house wiring. Where can I find a 120V 30A RV wiring diagram?

Question 3: The front wheel covers are very noisy. The dealer said they were over tightened and readjusted. Didn't work. I attached four adhesive rubberized dots to the inside edge on the caps and reinstalled. That worked initially. After driving down the road for about twenty miles they started making noise again.

Your thoughts please.

Question 4: There is a flat plastic latch that is used to hold the entry door open when parked. That thing rattles around in the wind while driving.

Any tricks that you guys use to keep it from flopping around?

Elaine suggested a small strip of Velcro.

Well that's it for now.

Thanks

Jim
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Old 03-10-2006, 11:13 AM   #3
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[QUOTE] Our driveway is sloped to level coach the front wheels must be lifted off the ground. I fully understand that that is a no no. /QUOTE]

No problem having the front wheels off the ground but don't raise both rears off the ground. Your parking brake operates through the rear wheels.
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Old 03-10-2006, 01:53 PM   #4
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Ditto ...we sometimes have the fronts off the ground when "level" but other than co-pilot nervousness have not experienced any problems.

A 30 amp connection at home would be nice (required to operatate our a/c), but not required as our primary requirement at our stick house was refrigerator and battery charge, and both worked fine on 15/20 amp connection.

Don't have the entry door "latch" when open so cannot address that one...
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:23 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The technician at the RV dealer suggested having at least a dedicated 120V 30A RV service installed.

What is the difference between normal house wiring and RV wiring? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
As long as you limit yourself to 30 amps, there is no difference from house to RV. Just put a 30 amp breaker in your house panel, and run the appropriate guage of romex to a 30A receptacle. This is simple 2 wire PLUS a ground wire. DO NOT attempt to build a 50 amp circuit without getting professional advice, as those are 4 wire connections, 2 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. 30 amp is really all you need unless living in it full time. When in doubt, use one guage size heavier than the charts call for, especially if it is a long run from the panel to the recept. ED
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Old 03-11-2006, 05:57 AM   #6
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Raising the front wheels off the ground has been known to cause windshield problems, either stress cracks or popping the windshield out of its mounts. It may or may not be a problem with any given make & model, depending on a host of construction details. Best to avoid it wheneverf possible. The ramps you describe sound like they will work fine.

There is no difference in "RV wiring" and a 30A outlet is just a 120 VAC circuit with a 30A breaker, at least 10 gauge wiring and the appropriate type of outlet for a 30A RV plug. Make sure you get an RV outlet and not a 3 pin dryer plug - they are different even though they look very similar. Home Depot & Lowes have them, as do many RV supply stores. A 50A RV outlet is merely a 220V, 50A circuit with suitable 50A RV outlet. Easy enough to install, but rarely needed for an RV in the driveway.

Velcro is probably the best answer to your rattling latch
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Old 03-11-2006, 08:50 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Question 1: What type of ramps do you use and why?

I was thinking of using 2x8x10' cut to the following lengths; 39", 31", 23", 15" to stack for ramps which would leave a 12" block for the leveler pads. I'm planning on 4 sets. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
If you are planning to drive the motorhome up onto the ramps, and/or park it with weight on the ramps, be sure the support the full width of the tire in the front, and the full width of BOTH tires on rear duals. If you support only part of the tire width, or only one tire in a dual set, you will cause damage to your tires.
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Old 03-11-2006, 11:58 AM   #8
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The ramps, made as you describe, work great. A bit heavy but not very expensive. I only use them on the front (or else you will need four for the rear tires. The top board should be at least large enough to support the foot of the tire (both wide enough and long enough) and you should plan to only park on the top board (not the incline ramp since that can do damage to the tires per Michelin)

Lowes sells the RV 30 amp box which is identical to most campground outlets. It can be mounted outdoors and looks to be weatherproof. As previously mentioned, the 30 amp is 110v and wired identical to the 15 or 20 amp service in the house (just a different plug). I agree that 10 gauge should be appropriate per the tables. Put a 110v 30 amp breaker in your fuse box and start wiring.
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Old 03-11-2006, 02:08 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I was thinking of using 2x8x10' cut to the following lengths </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I personaly used the same approach, but bought instead 2x10. I was looking for 2x12 but they did not have any.

I feel the x10" width might be more appropriate to support the whole tire width. x12 would be even better.

Congrats on your purchase
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:46 AM   #10
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I initially used 2x wooden ramps, but later poured some concrete ramps. These work great except where on meets the edge of the drive. It is cracking pieces off the end of the ramp because the new concrete is too thin for the weight of the MH. It so far has not caused a problem in using the ramps. Whichever type you use, it is not recommended that you drive off of the high end.
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