Residential fridge

[lanerd]

We too don't boondock, but with six 6-volt batteries, a 3000 W inverter and a 10Kw diesel generator...I don't think it would be a problem.

We love our 3-door 22cf Maytag with in-door ice and water dispenser. It will hold almost as much as our home 25cf Maytag Side-by-Side.

Our previous coach had the 4-door Nevercold and we always had problems with it and several recalls had to be done. PITA, and with very little inside space, it made staying in it for five months straight a real problem.

Ron

[JMonroe]

If dry camping is the majority of your RV lifestyle, perhaps further research would be warranted, but my guess would be that a properly set up residential fridge rig would compare favorably with one equipped with an absorption type.

As you've already been advised, any modern residential fridge will be quite energy efficient. Most will add a couple more batteries to support the fridge but depending on how many you start with that may not be necessary, unless you plan on frequent boondocking or dry camping.

Our current RV is number 8 and the only one with a residential fridge. We won't go back. It's more functional and safer.

[PbdBlue]

Thanks for the replies. Just trying to figure how many amp-hours per day so I can design around that. Class a gasser so not a lot of room for extra batteries but I can modify the battery box for two lf16's. Thinking smaller dedicated inverter since the standby current is much better. Most 2000 watt inverters consume 2-3 amps with no load. My current Magnum MSW 1200 watt does also. A Xantrex ProWatt 600 watt PSW inverter only draws 0.6 amps. It will handle 1200 watts surge so the question is will it start the compressor reliably?