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Old 08-08-2016, 12:19 PM   #15
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What brand/model inverter are you considering?

Your install looks great.
Thanks. It seems to be a nice little fridge that fits my needs and size requirements. Purchased it from Lowes for $358.00 with my discount. Total cost for the install $358.00 . Here is a link to the inverter I plan to use.


DonRowe.com: KISAE SWXFR1210 1000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter with Automatic Transfer Switch
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:39 PM   #16
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Great work and you'll really appreciate the difference in cold cold. On the wall vents to the exterior, I simply blocked the louvers shut with heavy duty mastic tape. There is plenty of open space in the surrounding cabinetry to allow for fridge condenser air exchange circulation. And you will have blocked a large source of outdoor air mixing with your living space air.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:04 PM   #17
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Great work and you'll really appreciate the difference in cold cold. On the wall vents to the exterior, I simply blocked the louvers shut with heavy duty mastic tape. There is plenty of open space in the surrounding cabinetry to allow for fridge condenser air exchange circulation. And you will have blocked a large source of outdoor air mixing with your living space air.
Thanks. Since I have some space under the fridge and a small gap on top of the fridge I plan to close off both the top and side vent. I will use something for the side vent that is removable for back access to the fridge. I have seen where some folks taped some insulation to the back of the vent cover where the cover fit snugly in the hole after the insulation was attached. I'd like to do something similar.

My biggest concern is I don't have a good way to support the top of the fridge from movement. The design of the fridge is such that the top of the box is even with the top of the doors so putting a trim board or cleat on the front trim would not work. I also don't want to risk drilling any holes in the fridge for fear of puncturing a Freon line. Any ideas for supporting the top???

Has anyone wedged Styrofoam or similar material between the fridge walls on the sides and back to create a snug fit and help reduce movement??
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:19 PM   #18
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I installed a Samsung RF197 to replace my Norcold. I left parts of the top and bottom vents open but covered then with screening. I taped the rest closed with black duct tape. The heat exhausted from the bottom compressor rises and you want to get rid if it so I dont think you would ever want to close it completely.. I used gas-rated yellow teflon tape on the tapered plug to seal the propane line. I was advised the tape rather than dope was required in Canada to meet the gas code. I also had minimal clearances on the side. You need to think through how you trim the top of the fridge as that gap is also important to exhaust heat. Good luck, you will be sorry you didnt take the leap earlier - I certainly was.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:56 PM   #19
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I closed off my roof vent and side wall vent with spray foam (placed scree over them first to block and bugs). Residential's usually will vent from under the front into the interior. It is very minimal amount of heat they produce that you can feel with your hand while its operating. I tried leaving the roof vent open, when the wind would blow it would howl and air would rush out from under the unit. I also tried to leave the side wall open, when it got cold out the fridge shut off to protect the compressor from the oil becoming too cold, the reality is it needs to share the same temps as the inside, just like it would if it were in your house. Closed them both off been going strong for two years.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:02 PM   #20
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Thanks. Since I have some space under the fridge and a small gap on top of the fridge I plan to close off both the top and side vent. I will use something for the side vent that is removable for back access to the fridge. I have seen where some folks taped some insulation to the back of the vent cover where the cover fit snugly in the hole after the insulation was attached. I'd like to do something similar.

My biggest concern is I don't have a good way to support the top of the fridge from movement. The design of the fridge is such that the top of the box is even with the top of the doors so putting a trim board or cleat on the front trim would not work. I also don't want to risk drilling any holes in the fridge for fear of puncturing a Freon line. Any ideas for supporting the top???

Has anyone wedged Styrofoam or similar material between the fridge walls on the sides and back to create a snug fit and help reduce movement??
Check out my install. If you need any other pictures, let me know.
Bob
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:15 PM   #21
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I had a similar issue supporting the top of my fridge. I ended up getting a piece of 1-1/2" angle aluminum. I attached one side of it to the top of the fridge using 3M double-sided outdoor tape. The vertical piece I screwed into the existing trim above the fridge. This places pressure on the front top of the fridge so it can't move - without damaging it. Have had it in place for 2 plus years without incident. Good luck, your installation looks great!
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:22 PM   #22
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I did bolt my Samsung down at the bottom, but it still felt loose at the top, so I forced a layer of the thermo-pane insulation between the top of the fridge and the ceiling. I got it in there pretty tightly, so it never wiggles at all now. That was two years ago.


Just a thought.


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Old 08-08-2016, 10:23 PM   #23
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Noserider
I had a similar issue supporting the top of my fridge. I ended up getting a piece of 1-1/2" angle aluminum. I attached one side of it to the top of the fridge using 3M double-sided outdoor tape. The vertical piece I screwed into the existing trim above the fridge. This places pressure on the front top of the fridge so it can't move - without damaging it. Have had it in place for 2 plus years without incident. Good luck, your installation looks great!
Are your screws installed from the coach interior side into the trim above the fridge? No room on mine to do this from the back side. Good idea. Thanks
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:25 PM   #24
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I did bolt my Samsung down at the bottom, but it still felt loose at the top, so I forced a layer of the thermo-pane insulation between the top of the fridge and the ceiling. I got it in there pretty tightly, so it never wiggles at all now. That was two years ago.


Just a thought.


Tom
Thanks Tom. I thought about wedging something in there for support.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:26 PM   #25
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Check out my install. If you need any other pictures, let me know.
Bob
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Thanks Bob, I'll have a look at your thread.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:15 AM   #26
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Noserider
I had a similar issue supporting the top of my fridge. I ended up getting a piece of 1-1/2" angle aluminum. I attached one side of it to the top of the fridge using 3M double-sided outdoor tape. The vertical piece I screwed into the existing trim above the fridge. This places pressure on the front top of the fridge so it can't move - without damaging it. Have had it in place for 2 plus years without incident. Good luck, your installation looks great!
If you needed to remove the fridge which I have no plans to do unless it quits, you would need to break the bond on your 3M tape correct?
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:30 AM   #27
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The screws are installed on the front of the trim. You can mount the angle aluminum towards he back or front depending on how much room is in front. If you need to get the fridge out, it will come with it - there is no need to remove it or the tape.p I also strapped it down at the rear. The front is is critical to have firmly secured as the fridge will definitely work loose with road movement over time if it is not. The fridge can be easily removed by removing the front screws and those at the rear bottom - if it is ever necessary. The combination of the aluminum and tape holds it extremely well. Good luck,
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:27 AM   #28
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I've had my Haier in for approximately 3 years. I'll attempt to describe my experiences.

MSW inverter: I run it on a MSW 458 Xantrex inverter. It runs good but I find it runs colder on inverter. I just adjust the fridge to a lower setting when on inverter. The fridge runs good on inverter and campground electricity.

Vents: I sealed the 2 outside vents with foam. Caution: The plastic covers warped when foam dried. Had to cut relief slots in foam to straighten them out.

Gas line: Home depot has a cap to seal propane line. Don't have part #

Venting the fridge: I opened the side clearance approx. 3/4 " to allow air flow. I also hole sawed 3 each 2" holes in top of cabinet that protrudes into the inside of coach.

Securing the fridge: I installed 3 aluminum angle irons flush with the front cabinet. 2 on the top at outside edges and 1 at bottom left side. After sliding in I secured to cabinet front face. In the back I installed shims under the open back and secured to the floor.

Securing door for travel: Before sliding into cabinet I stapled 2 each heavy duty velcro at correct height to match the fridge and freezer door with each being long enough to grab and stow out of the way when camped.

Any questions you can send me a PM as I don't want to hijack the OP's post.
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