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Old 08-06-2016, 10:43 PM   #1
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Residential Fridge Install

And so it begins. The time has come for my Dometic NDR1062 to be euthanized. I can't say we were ever that close. It never performed as it should. I bought the motorhome 2 years ago, so I did give it a chance to grow on me. I changed the thermistor, added some roof top vent fans and also put the fridge fan inside the box to help keep the fins from icing over. I guess it was not meant to be. Sooooo today I removed it. It was fairly straight forward. Once I got it out of the opening I disassembled it (removed the not so cold pack and doors) and took it out the front door. I did need to remove the Co-Pilot chair but did not have to remove my screen door.
The replacement fridge is a Haier 10.1 2 door unit. My space was limited since I already have a cabinet with drawers next to the fridge and a furnace on the bottom. The Haier is almost the exact same size as the Dometic. Tomorrow I will add some rigid insulation board to the sides of the compartment where the old batt insulation was installed. The opening for my fridge (width) is barely a 1/4" wider than the fridge itself. There is more room once I get it inside the cabinet (couple inches on each side) to breath. I have a couple questions I could use your help on.

1) I would like to leave the gas line that I removed from the Dometic burner in case the next owner wants to use it (poor soul) for an RV fridge. Is there a way to cap this line since it has a flared fitting or do I need to find the other end, remove it and install a plug?

2) My Dometic had an icemaker so I have a water line. I closed the valve for the icemaker water line under the sink but should I worry about having a water line that's not connected to anything? Again since it's plumbed for an icemaker I thought I would leave the line in place.

Sorry about the pics being sideways. Can't figure out how to fix that.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:14 AM   #2
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Couple more questions.

1) How are you guys dealing with the vent in the side (back of fridge) and the roof vent? It would seem to make sense to leave the roof vent for hot air from the fridge to rise and exit. I kept my 12v fans (3 of them) in the roof vent. I think I'll add a thermal switch or an off/on switch to operate them.

2) I also want to keep the side vent so I can remove it to access the back of the fridge where the AC plug is located. Should I put some insulation on the cover and some screen to keep bugs out?
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:55 AM   #3
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I bought a brass cap, applied a little pipe dope, and sealed the gas line. Mix a little dish soap and water in a spray bottle and squirt it on the fitting. You'll see lots of bubbles if it isn't sealed. You can do the same with the water line. I left both vents in place. I also want to be able to access the back of the fridge and I wanted air to be able to move around the fridge compressor. It also goes back to your reason for leaving the gas and water lines. If a subsequent owner wants an RV fridge, they'll need the vents.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:44 AM   #4
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I closed my top vent off with spray foam after running wires through to the roof area for solar install. a thin piece of insulation board across the bottom and then spray foam from the top side. Easily removed for future access if necessary. Side vent is taped off across the vents then a piece of insulation board on the back side. Removable to access back of refrigerator to plug in and change water filter. I glued insulation board on the outside wall as well.
A residential refrigerator will have a flow of air across the coil in from bottom front then up the back and out the top. An open top vent may let some heat out, but it would also let heat out in winter from living area. Odors from outside could come in as well. Remember the residential refrigerator is not sealed in its opening as the original was, so closing the vents off is how to close off the inside from the outside.
There seems to be so little warm air flow,that its not noticeable in the summer (even then the warm air is at the ceiling and drawn out the open vent or right into the return air if ac is on ). It may be an advantage in the winter.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:20 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by will stevens View Post
I closed my top vent off with spray foam after running wires through to the roof area for solar install. a thin piece of insulation board across the bottom and then spray foam from the top side. Easily removed for future access if necessary. Side vent is taped off across the vents then a piece of insulation board on the back side. Removable to access back of refrigerator to plug in and change water filter. I glued insulation board on the outside wall as well.
A residential refrigerator will have a flow of air across the coil in from bottom front then up the back and out the top. An open top vent may let some heat out, but it would also let heat out in winter from living area. Odors from outside could come in as well. Remember the residential refrigerator is not sealed in its opening as the original was, so closing the vents off is how to close off the inside from the outside.
There seems to be so little warm air flow,that its not noticeable in the summer (even then the warm air is at the ceiling and drawn out the open vent or right into the return air if ac is on ). It may be an advantage in the winter.
On my Haier there is not a grill on the bottom front for venting like some of the residential fridges I have seen. There is also no exposed coils in the back. There is an opening in the back at the bottom of the fridge. I'm guessing that's where the fridge vents. I would love to close off my vents to keep the outside air (and spiders) sealed off but once my fridge is installed in the cabinet with some trim there will be very little (if any) conditioned air from the coach getting inside the opening where the fridge will sit. Seems that would create some heat build up for the fridge on hot days.

BTW is it possible for a moderator to fix my sideways pictures? When I open the pictures in my downloads they are not sideways. Why does this occur and how can I prevent this in the future?
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:33 AM   #6
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Question, with the wall vent open is that not like leaving your window open letting hot and cold air in?
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:57 AM   #7
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Question, with the wall vent open is that not like leaving your window open letting hot and cold air in?
Indeed it is. If I'm not able to trim the cabinet to seal the outside air from entering the coach like it was with my RV fridge I think I should seal the vents.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:41 PM   #8
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Will your Haier run on a modified sine wave inverter? Thanks, HarveyP
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:54 PM   #9
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Will your Haier run on a modified sine wave inverter? Thanks, HarveyP
Not sure. I plan on installing a 1000 Watt PSW inverter with a 2000 Watt surge capacity dedicated to the fridge. The inverter will also have a built in power transfer. When running the gennie or on shore power it transfers off the inverter. So far, using my Kill A Watt Meter I have not seen the start up amps go over 2.5 and the Watts surge higher than 250. After 1 second it drops to 66-78 watts and the amps are .66 to .78.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:04 PM   #10
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Some progress today.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:14 PM   #11
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Since I was working alone today, I brought my motorcycle lift to help me raise the fridge up and slide it into a very tight opening. I have about 1/8" on each side. I do have a 1.5 inch gap on the top I need to address with some trim.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:54 PM   #12
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I left my roof vent open.....it's no different than if you had the Dometic in there. I sealed the outside (side vent) with foam. I found a small inline water filter at Home Depot and installed it behind that outside vent, for the ice maker, making it easy to change.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:58 PM   #13
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Looking good. I sealed off the roof vent but not the back vent. I like being able to get behind the fridge that way.

My fridge is run off a 2000 watt pure sign wave inverter. On the first motorhome in which I added an electric fridge, I was able to position the inverter underneath the fridge so I was able to plug the fridge directly into the inverter. On my current Newmar, the batteries are way in the back and so is the breaker panel box. So I tied the inverter into the breaker panel, connecting it to the circuit that powers the outlet for the fridge. This also powers a couple other outlets in the coach, which has proven to be quite handy, especially when I need to charge my laptop while traveling or dry camping, and don't feel like turning the generator on just for that.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:21 AM   #14
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What brand/model inverter are you considering?

Your install looks great.
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