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Old 01-07-2015, 07:48 AM   #15
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Jim, you don't use any kind of salt killer then...just water? The Salt-Away claims it can help prevent future rust, so I guess it leaves behind some type of inhibitor.

What part of MB are you in?...our place is in Minnedosa, north of Brandon.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:48 AM   #16
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Just to address the second part of the question, ie. corrosion: you need a rust converter primer after things get dry.


Rust converters were invented by Loc-Tite. They originally sold it as "Extend". It's still around, but now everybody and his brother makes a version.


What it is, is a polymer chemical (plastic in other words) that uses iron oxide as a catalyst. Pour the liquid on a piece of copper or brass, aluminum, whatever, and it just sits there. Let it touch anything with iron and it activates to form a plastic film. The film becomes a part of the metal surface, not just a coating like paint. The film prevents air or water from reaching the metal at all, so rust cannot form under the film. It's truly amazing stuff.


No, I do not sell the stuff, but I use it a lot. The USAF and FAA had us use it on some of their equipment back in 1983. I was amazed and convinced. Good stuff.


If you are enduring those kind of corrosive environments, you should get some of this treatment and spray (or brush) a rust converter primer on all of the undercarriage components. It will not affect anything with no iron or steel in it, and will not hurt any paint already there.


It is intended as a primer, so it is not as durable as a finish coat of paint, but it certainly beats doing nothing. You can paint it, of course, but by then you are probably tired of messing around under there.


One note about the liquid: if the container is contaminated at all, the entire batch will be ruined. If you get it in a bottle or jug (it's always plastic), pour what you need into another container and work from that. If you dip a brush into the liquid, brush it onto steel, then dip back into the liquid, that batch will be contaminated. You can continue what you are doing, but that batch will start to react, and by tomorrow will be unusable.


Too much information? Sorry about that. but it might help.


Tom
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:19 AM   #17
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No Tom, not TMI....good info and I do plan on spraying something the entire undercarriage this spring when temps allow. Even WD 40 has a new stuff called "Specialist corrosion inhibitor". I read an independant test on a firearm forum testing 40+ products exposed to a salt spray and the Specialist was at the top.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:27 AM   #18
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Here is that test:
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared : Day At The Range
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:04 PM   #19
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X2 on the Salt-X product, works great ! Used it for years for
boating as well as fishing tackle and cars in winter.

Salt-X = The best salt and salt corrosion fighter!
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
Jim, you don't use any kind of salt killer then...just water? The Salt-Away claims it can help prevent future rust, so I guess it leaves behind some type of inhibitor.

What part of MB are you in?...our place is in Minnedosa, north of Brandon.
I'm at Portage la Prairie, about an hour south east of Minnedosa.

I realize I came across negatively on this salt - rust issue, which wasn't my intent. It's just that in our part of the world, our vehicles are in the salt constantly through the winter. By the time it's warm enough to be able to do something about it, the damage has already been done.

The point I was actually trying to make is that the only way to reduce rust damage from salt is immediate action. Once the rust begins, it's too late to solve things with a simple rinse, using chemicals or not.

I'm going to look into Tom's suggestion of using one of the good rust converters.

Jim
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:22 PM   #21
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I didn't pick up any negativity, I do know y'all are in the thick of the stuff for 5+ months and it has to be exasperating. No way to treat your vehicles unless you have a climate controlled shop/building with drains, and even then you would be spending a lot of time in a rubber suit.....not fun, nor practical. Some type of treatment in the "off" season might help....hard to tell in such harsh conditions.

Been through Portage La Prairie a bunch, but have never actually seen the town...need to put it on the "list.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:09 AM   #22
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While I use Salt Away on my FL boat, especially flushing the outboard motor before long term storage, I wonder of the effectiveness if using it on open surfaces. Salt is water soluble and a good flush with tap water along with a brushing to get rid of the road film should be all you need. Under carriage is a whole other matter. If it didn't get prepped, primed and painted properly during manufacture (think automotive, not RV), you are fighting a loosing cause.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:24 AM   #23
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Cj, consider any undercarriage....nooks, crannies, folded metal seams, a multitude of fasteners, etc. I am not confident that just a fresh water rinse gets in all of those places, so I will be at least doing the Salt Away on my undercarriage as soon as possible. Then in the spring spray on some kind of rust inhibitor. I don't have any rust now other than what I would consider normal flash rust, so I want to keep it that way.

You are right, once rust gets settled in and working it's a losing battle,,,,been there done that on my Class B.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:39 AM   #24
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Herb thats a hell of a good idea. You cant possibly get into all the nooks and crannys with a pressure washer, its to hard to control the wand upside down. Put the sprinkler underneath at let it flood the area for as long as you need. Good thinking!
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