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Old 04-03-2012, 03:18 PM   #57
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And why is this better than bleach?
Bleach is toxic. Hydrogen peroxide will break down into water and oxygen.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:28 PM   #58
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Bleach is toxic. Hydrogen peroxide will break down into water and oxygen.
Though highly effective, chlorine is certainly problematic. However, since it is typically used in a very diluted form to occasionally "shock" an RV water system, the benefits seem to outweigh the risks.

Also, since chlorine can ruin carbon block and RO filters, to me, there's not much reason to use it that often.

I use bleach to shock treat my water holding tank twice a year. After that all my water passes though a sediment & carbon block (+ UV filter soon). Drinking water goes through an RO system.

After personally experiencing the 1993 Milwaukee Cryptosporidiosis outbreak, I'm erring on the side of caution.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:44 PM   #59
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we have a ro system, I put the storage tank and filters in a void space behind my wet bay panel. then ran the supply line up to the sink faucet.
the effluent drain simply is diverted over board through a tube that drains on the ground or I can attach pvc hose to it and water the cg trees while we make water for coffee and tea

everything is easy to get to for inspections and filter change outs.

this is the second system in this rig, the last one sprung a leak after i dropped it, while it was removed for me to do some upkeep work in the aft aft bay area
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:59 AM   #60
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I agree with TechWriter Bleach is toxic and reduces the life of most types of plastic by removing the compounds that make plastic pliable. Something else to consider is that RO's produce 1 to 3 gallons of waste water for every gallon they produce. This will eat up your water supply if you are dry camping and your pump will run more often. You can run the waste water back into your tank if dry camping.The waste water is OK to recycle it will just reduce the life of the system. The other thing to consider is that RO's require a certain amount of pressure to operate unless you get one with a built in pump. If you are using a pressure regulator it may affect the RO's performance. I would check the minimum pressure requirement most need 50 to 60 psi.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:43 PM   #61
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I agree with TechWriter Bleach is toxic and reduces the life of most types of plastic by removing the compounds that make plastic pliable.
TechWriter (me) said the 1st part, but not the part about chlorine damaging plastic.

Your RV plumbing system uses pretty much the same material as your house's system, probably PEX in most cases. Bleach will no more damage your RV's plumbing than your home's.

The bleach (i.e., chlorine) damaging plastic plumbing probably originated with the Spencer 2003 class action lawsuit against duPont over polybutylene plumbing: Polybutylene Plumbing Class Action Notice

If you have this stuff in your RV or house, then don't use bleach. Otherwise, don't worry.

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Originally Posted by Matchayan View Post
Something else to consider is that RO's produce 1 to 3 gallons of waste water for every gallon they produce. This will eat up your water supply if you are dry camping and your pump will run more often. You can run the waste water back into your tank if dry camping.The waste water is OK to recycle it will just reduce the life of the system.
Yes, a couple of us already mentioned this method.

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The other thing to consider is that RO's require a certain amount of pressure to operate unless you get one with a built in pump. If you are using a pressure regulator it may affect the RO's performance. I would check the minimum pressure requirement most need 50 to 60 psi.
50 - 60 psi works just fine.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #62
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My biggest objection to ROs is the water they waste. Many parts of the country is running short, or is already short, of water. Imagine what would happen if everyone, or even just a large number of people, were to use ROs? Recycling the waste water by routing it to the fresh water tank only increases the hadrness of the water going into your plumbing, creating more water spotting, soap scum, calcification, etc.

People exaggerate the dangers of ion exchange softened water. Contrary to popular belief, most people on low sodium diets will not be affected. Those who are can use potassium chloride to regenerate the resin bed (not an option for me because my potassium levels are high due to medication I'm on; fortunately, my sodium levels are low due to the same medication). Personally, the taste of ion exchange softened water doesn't bother me; I rarely notice it (but then, I'm not a water snob; as long as it is wet, nothing is moving in it, and it doesn't taste too strong, I'll drink it without even flinching; simple filtration is enough to make most water drinkable).

A small RO system for drinking and cooking only wouldn't be too bad. anything more is overkill and either wasteful or counter productive.
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #63
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Then what was the point of using the RO filter?
That one I will answer, In a properly installed R/O system the R/O water only feeds SOME of the RV's water systems. For example the kitchen sink, but not the bathrooms (As an example) thus you do use the "Impurity concentrated" water for non-consumption purposes such as hand washing and toilet flushing. and use the purified water for drinking and cooking.

This is one of those "in the box" issues..
{one water system for the whole house} Two water systems one filtered.


The underlined text is "in the box". You need to think Outside the box (Italics)
In some cases, there is even an additional faucet in the kitchen just for R/O water. So even dish washing can use the non-filtered water.. In other cases all the cold water in the kitchen is filtered. (Which is how I'd do it if I did it)

What do I do.. Britta.
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