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Old 06-06-2012, 07:03 PM   #29
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I have the same problem with my 2003 Pace Arrow. It is equipped with an Intelletec EMS and shows the front compressor shedding. The EMS is supposed to shed the compressor whenever the total amps reaches 30. (mine is a 30 amp coach). It's interresting to read about the start capacitor but like yours, mine runs for a short time before cutting off.
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:15 PM   #30
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That is because the starting capacitor gives the extra "kick" to get the compressor going otherwise it will try to start then "give up", then try again.
The first service tech that looked at my unit said that the circuit board was "gone". I thought about it and figured that a circuit board couldn't carry that much amperage. The second tech said that my compressor was seized. He wanted to replace the whole unit but couldn't find one in the area. I asked him to try replacing the capacitor. He protested but since he allready had the cover off, he agreeded. He didn't have one on his service truck (he was the airconditioning specalist). He had to get the store to send him one out. When installed - all worked and is still working. I think he was pissed off. It would have only cost me $60.00 more for a new unit but I didn't want the water seals etc. disturbed.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:09 AM   #31
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Thanks again for all the comments. Here is where I now am on this project. In the order of most likely the culprit.......1) bad Overload Switch. 2) bad "compressor running capacitor". 3) bad PTCR device/starting capacitor. Since all of these are up on top of the MH, I decided to call the ONE local RV service place to inquire if they make "on-site" AC service calls.........and to my surprise, they do! They have a FEMALE with 23 years of experience that does it! She is coming next Friday, I'll keep you posted on what she finds. Rook
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #32
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Is the compressor ACTUALLY running? The sound of a "locked" compressor motor may sound just like a "running" compressor. If it is in fact "locked", it would then make sense that it is a thermal protector on the compressor motor that is cutting it out after a short time...Just a thought?
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:09 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plummit View Post
Is the compressor ACTUALLY running? The sound of a "locked" compressor motor may sound just like a "running" compressor. If it is in fact "locked", it would then make sense that it is a thermal protector on the compressor motor that is cutting it out after a short time...Just a thought?
Yes, the Compressor is ACTUALLY running. Rook
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:26 PM   #34
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Bad news!

Well, after waiting for over a week, the RV AC tech came today. It cost me $163.09.....and no fix! She replaced the compressor start capacitor and for about 5 minutes, we thought that fixed it.....but not! Then at my suggestion, she checked the overload switch and it measured "open", it's supposed to be normally "closed". And, according to the diagnostic chart, that can cause exactly my AC's symptons. Unfortunately, my overload switch is one of those that is inside the compressor and cannot be replaced! To correctly fix it you have to replace the complete compressor! DRATS!! ....or a complete new AC system and that looks like another $1000.00 expense!

Now, I'm thinking about maybe devising a "work-a-round". This is what Dometic diagnostics says:

5.8 OVERLOAD PROTECTOR
An overload protector is a component that will open the AC volt circuit to the compressor if the compressor overheats due to an electrical problem. Some compressors have the overload protector built inside the compressor.
This type, if defective, requires a complete compressor replacement.
Most compressors have the overload protector mounted on the exterior of the compressor casing. To check this type of protector, turn the air conditioner circuit breaker OFF. Make sure that the overload is at ambient temperature and measure continuity across its terminals. If open, it should be replaced. A weak overload protector in the electrical system will cause the compressor to start and stop rapidly or short-cycle. This situation would be difficult to test. An exact replacement overload protector should
be used whenever a replacement is required.

The diagram of the compressor circuit shows the "normally closed" overload switch connects a blu wire from the control box to the "common" connector on the compressor. Sooooooo.......if I put a jumper across the overload switch that should fix it .....right? I am aware that I would no longer have any "overheat" protection on the compressor. But I still have the 20 amp breaker as a protection device. Okay.....comments welcomed. Rook
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:19 PM   #35
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Duo Therm Air Conditioning Units on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

15K Dometic, $568.00, plus shipping. Installing a new unit is not that hard, if you have an able bodied helper.

You have never said how many amps the compressor pulls. If it is pulling excessive amps, the compressor will over heat and it needs to be replaced.

Ken
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:13 AM   #36
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Hey rook , sounds like it is low on freon, which is causing overload/thermal protection switch to trip . Sounds like you don't need a whole new system, just a unit charge.

You can't get a good accurate amp. Draw reading on your compressor when it is not fully loaded due to low charge.


Your tech. Should recover freon that is currently in the system. Install a low and high side tap into lines, pressure with nitrogen check for leaks.
Bleed off nitrogen, pull a good 29.29 vacuum in system. Then add proper amount of freon into system to correct specs on freon amount.


That would be cheaper than replacing compressor or whole system.



When your system is fully charged check amp. Draw on your compressor, to be sure that compressor is not already damaged, due to overamping compressor.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:31 AM   #37
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If you can get a unit at the above price - go for it and save headaches and "hidden costs".
If the switch is inside the compressor then there isn't really a safe workaround.
I understand that the current airconditioners are sealed units and can't be recharged. If so there is another cost to try and possibly fail.
Buy the new unit. It will be cheaper.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:08 PM   #38
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The $568.00 is not the full story......there is the ceiling assy, $84.00, shipping $118.00 and installation costs. Total of about $800.00. I'm now getting quotes from various places and plan to just replace the whole thing! (it's 14 years old). Hey......., it costs $$$$ to live FT in a MH!!! Rook
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:02 PM   #39
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Try to find one closer to you and save on the freight. You can also get a unit that possibly will reuse the existing ceiling assembly...That is the whole story.

By the time you have a tech install the taps and recharge the unit, you will be at $400 plus on the repair. It does not make sense to dump half the cost of a new unit in to an old unit that has no warranty.

My wife helped install one unit and I installed another one by myself and I am 64 years old.

Ken
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:28 AM   #40
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Update

Status update.......

My decision to REPLACE the front AC has uncovered several additional problems. First, the direct replacement unit from Dometic is no longer compatible with my existing 4-button duo-therm thermostat and not compatible with the control box in my rear AC unit! That forces one of two solutions. 1) A new top unit, remove and install the old control box from the 14 year old bad unit into the new unit, using same 14 year old 4-button thermostat. Total cost including extra labor, $935.55. 2) A new top unit, new ceiling assy including new control box, new 5-button thermostat and also remove old control box from back unit and install new control box. Total costs $1159.55. After thinking it through, I'm going with option #2. Rook
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:19 AM   #41
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Additional info.......the actual trouble with my front AC causing "short cycling" was a "cold intermittent solder joint" on the Compressor start relay on the Control Board! I do not regret replacing with a NEW AC because the Compressor on the old unit was beginning to make a funny noise (14 years old) Rook
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