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Old 07-23-2012, 02:59 PM   #15
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but my experience came from owning a FLeetwood with the first generation rubber roof (soft stuff) which is probably what the OP has. It's already bubbling and moving around.
The roof on my '96 Southwind wasn't soft and loose as you describe, but I sold it in 2002. Maybe if I had kept it longer? At any rate, our experiences differ.

I agree there is no point in re-coating a surface that is loose or gummy. It has to be firmly adhered and fairly clean, i.e. no mold or scale.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:57 PM   #16
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Wow, that was pretty educational for me. I am about in the exact same situation as the OP. 1996 Pace Arrow, 12K no history other than the original buyer put 8K on it, sold it in 2006, the next guy put 4 K on it and has no ideal what the original owner did or didn't do. He does know he didn't do anything other than use it just a couple times a year. My question to the OP is did you just use household cleaning material to clean it up in the first place or did you go to the RV Store (Camping World, etc.) and purchase roof specific product, did you use an aggressive brush, or a softer type brush? I am about to to the same job as you did and of course have the same concerns. Any tips you can give would be appreciated.
Probably will get better advice after I post what I used . I used a soft long bristle poly brush on a pole, same one I use for washing the sides of the coach. For cleaner I started out with liquid Ajax and water, in some real grundgy areas I used some 50% diluted Purple Power. I would have loved to use Simple Green but somewhere I read that was not so good. I'm not recommending this method just answering a question .
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:28 PM   #17
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Simple Green is a potential problem only with soft aluminum - it can cause pitting if left in contact too long. It works fine a roof, whether EPDM, TPO or fiberglass. Add some bleach to help cut the mold too.

You probably read about [not] using Simple Green to clean radiators.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:13 PM   #18
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Here is the Liquid Rubber site. The photos of the roofs being re-coated will give a better idea of what a rubber roof looks like when it is well worn...
EPDM Coatings | Liquid Roof | Liquid Rubber - Residential and Commercial Roofing for roof leaks

The simple green works well for cleaning rubber roofs. Look at any cleaner you use to be sure they do not contain petroleum distillates or citrus cleaners. Until you decide whether or not you are going to re-coat the roof, you might avoid using a protective coating...
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:41 PM   #19
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Manufacturer recommends to clean TPO roofs with mild detergent and rince well. Took my 05 Expedition to a dealer in Vernon BC for cleaning and noticed bubbling in roof when I went to pick it up. Guy had cleaned it with petrolium based product. Not much help from the dealer, I coated the seams with more Dicor and it has been fine. They stretched the fabric with the cleaner and it does flex with the temp. I clean my roof with a soft bristol brush and mild soap now myself.
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:49 PM   #20
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Probably will get better advice after I post what I used . I used a soft long bristle poly brush on a pole, same one I use for washing the sides of the coach. For cleaner I started out with liquid Ajax and water, in some real grundgy areas I used some 50% diluted Purple Power. I would have loved to use Simple Green but somewhere I read that was not so good. I'm not recommending this method just answering a question .
Purple Power will remove paint and etch some metals. I used it to clean a computer monitor and it removed some of the plastic and made it sticky. Which told me it was way too strong to use straight or even diluted 50/50.
Awesome concentrate (Dollar Tree) used full strength will etch glass.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:44 AM   #21
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Will probably get some bashing from folks, but this is what I did to my previous 30ft 95 Fleetwood Flair and it was very cost effective and lasted 3+ yrs until it was sold.
My roof started leaking soon after we bought it and my first time on the roof I made the mistake of barely touching the skylight and put a 6 in. hole in it.
I went to Home Depot and got a roll of roof repair tape. It is the same as eternabond tape except it has an aluminum finish not white. I covered the skylight in it and used it along the edges (covering maybe 1/4in. of the metal molding) and any spots that looked questionable. Once on it will never come off, just like eternabond but at less than half the price. It's used to seal the seams of moblehomes and works great. I sealed all vents, antenna, seams, etc. with Dicor self leveling caulk. I then bought a 5 gal bucket of KoolSeal elastometric coating (again at Home Depot), it's white and flexible, and put 3 thin coats on with a roller. The roof was like new and I never had a problem again. We immediatly took a 6 week trip across the USA, Canada, and up to Alaska (over 13,000 miles!) and never had an issue. It went through deserts, low branches, snow and ice, and hail stoms without a hitch. We sold the coach 3+ yrs later and it still looked and sealed great after 30,000 miles and being parked outside in the Florida sun. The best part is, I did it all for less than 100 bucks!
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:18 AM   #22
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Bashing? I wish I read this before clicking the submit button on Amazon, I just ordered a roll of Eternabond! LOL!
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:46 AM   #23
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I also get the FL. mold on my 13 year old roof. It still looks as good as yours.
I have only used a 1650 PSI pressure washer the last 3 plus years on it.
Do it twice a year. About a 1-2 hour job.
No soap or any brush scrubbing done.
No leaks ever from it. Looks good for another 5 years or more yet.

Camping World is now replacing them for less then 4K. Not much more then a new set of tires.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:33 PM   #24
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I'm surprised how often I hear about pressure washers being used. Cannot argue with success, but that is a little scary to me . This forum is great, what a wealth of info
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #25
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We bought a 92 Eagle, the roof was dirty and checkered also. It wasn't loose but I think time had just worn it down.

We scrubbed it down good, found out it was the type of roof that had to have the primer on it before the liquid rubber.

We removed AC units, skylights, and vent covers, they were in poor condition. There had been leaks in several places, many at the skylights.

I ordered all new skylights and vents, except fridge. We put on the primer, quite a job, taped off the sides first. Let it dry for about a week as it was rather cool then. Then we coated with Liguid Roof and we have a good roof. It washes off nice and is hard and solid. No leaks and very pleased with it. It hasn't been on a year yet but we are happy with it so far. We spent around $700 for coating and primer and much more on new skylights.

We will see how it does, it is kept under cover so that helps, its in Texas under a tech shield and metal roof. If it doesn't hold hubby and I will replace the rubber roof, it will be quite a job but doable and way less expensive then having it done.

If you need to order the excellent adhesive available to glue things down sadly it only comes in gallons. I did order it as I had a couple of spots to glue.

I expect ours to last many many years.
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