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Old 04-14-2011, 04:57 PM   #1
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rubber roof edpm reseal

when you reseal with the roll on rubber roof product, is it necessary to remove the side rail mouldings from the top of the coach front to back, or can you just roll on over the existing roof without removing any hardware?
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:22 PM   #2
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It really depends on a couple of things. How much of an area are you covering, what product are you using for the job, are you removing any of the old roof. I have used several different products over the years and now prefer only eternabond for most small jobs. I always sealed around the edges with Dicor lap sealant after the patch was done.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:33 PM   #3
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Burmashave:
If you mean the roll-on like Liquid Roof, my neighbor and I did the roof on my previous ( 30ft 1990 GeorgieBoy). We removed the a/c covers, and taped along the top edge of the awning rails. He did the edge of the roof from the rails to about 4 inches onto the roof- using a ladder. (We removed the tape before the liquid dried to get a smooth edge.) I started at the front and covered the roof back to the rear ladder. As I finished around each air conditioner I replaced the cover. With 2 of us working it took most of a day. Cleaning and preparation is important.
You can spread the work out by only mixing enough to do part of the roof, it does have a "pot life" and starts to thicken after about 4-5 hours. It is very thick and you need a strong drill and mixer shaft.
The Liquid Rubber looked good, was easy to clean and sealed the roof well. I did not have any leaks in the old roof but it was showing wear. I traded the MH about 2 years after applying the liquid and it did not show any wear or cracks...
Also, the solvents in the Liquid roof cause the old roof to bubble and wrinkle for a day or two after you apply it but the roof tightened up very smooth after a few days.
hope this helps
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:17 PM   #4
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that is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks very much!
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:00 PM   #5
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burmashave- I ordered my materials from Pro Guard, also called them with questions and they were very helpful. One caution, the coatings are not recommended for ALPHA cream color EDPM RV roof.
Service Bulletin
Also articles and instructions on that website...

Most RV rubber roofs are made by Dicor or Alpha.
There are several videos on youtube about applying/mixing liquid Roof.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:24 PM   #6
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I just finished my roof, and did pretty much what Hooligan did. I bought mine from EPDMCoatings.com when it arrived it was in cans from Pro Guard. I coated my roof because it had black mildew spots all over and the caulking was cracked and mildewed. I removed all the old caulking and re-did. I didn't remove the AC covers, but painted as far under as I could, and around all vents. I did notice that in working with the caulking that the rubber looked like it was still pliable, so I'm confident that the coating was a good choice. I also painted around the perimeter. The Liquid Rubber cures at 55 and above. The weather I started the coating in was just 55,and didn't really improve much for the couple of weeks, so it took a while to cure. The cure time doesn't appear have adversely affect the coating. The coating is thick, like Honey a real PITA to to work with. I used a 3/4 inch Knapp roller which didn't help but was recommended. I have noticed a couple of areas where I may have not got a good coat on, so I'm going to put a second coat on. I bought 6 gallons of the coating, a 4 gal can and two 1 gal cans. I used one of the 1 gal cans to start with painting around the vents and perimeter and what was left on the rest. I had about 2 gal.s left of the 4 gal, which I put in the freezer when I was done. Hopefully the coating in the freezer is still good. I'm going to use a roller with a 3/8 knapp and hopefully push the coating around a bit easier.

btw I removed the molding/rail that holds the awning, because we didn't see the two screws holding the awning. I would recommend not removing it. The length of rail makes it difficult to work with unless you have help.

Larry
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:45 PM   #7
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My experiences were similar to the others.

I did it because my roof looked like crap, more black than white. It did not leak or anything. I used liqwuid roof. I bought 6 gallons, used 4. Edges firsat on a ladder, then the bulk of it with a roller.

Finished roof looked great.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:55 AM   #8
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thanks for the detailed instructions and advice. I have a 36' er, so it seems 4 gallons should be enough for me too.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:43 AM   #9
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I used the liquid ''rubber roof'' stuff that I ordered from the adverts in the back of my FMCA book I get every month. 500 bucks to do up to a 34 foot roof for the complete kit. My roof was ten years old and I had a couple of ''phantom leaks'' that I just could not find so I did the whole roof and solved the problem. I did mine all by my self and the hardest part is the cleaning of you roof before you paint the stuff on it. Tapeing off is the next hardest and ''not painting yourself into a corner away from your ladder'' is the last hardest thing. (there is a story here and I will tell it later)


The roof seems to work well and it looks really nice with no more ''streaks or chalking'' as I can see. Time will tell as to the actual ''Quality'' of the product but, as the guy said that fell out of the airplane......''It looks real good right now''................

Ten cents for this valuable information please. You can pay me the next time you see me.

The name of the company is Minnisota RV Roofing
www.rvroofing.com
Nice folks to work with.
877387 6511

Lets all pray for our service guys and gals.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:44 AM   #10
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always buy an extra one...better to have more than wait for a new one to ship.
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