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Old 06-07-2011, 01:13 PM   #1
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Runs but Won't Move

we have a 2001 Ford F-53 chassis with a V-10 w/ less than 20K miles that just recently pulled out of it's Winter home and found it did not wan't to drive out as easy as it normally would (My first thought was the brakes were hanging up a little bit from sitting) We were able to get it to the end of the driveway, now I put it in gear and it does not move I did not see any evidence of any lost fluid anywhere( Even where it sat all winter) the tires were not hung up. It feels like it is not even in gear although the backup lights come on and the camera activates in reverse then I did notice Transmission fluid dripping from the dipstick hole until I shut it off and it drained back in the Transmission. has anyone else experienced this ? It worked fine when we parked it. Hopefully not a major issue


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Old 06-07-2011, 01:35 PM   #2
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My Son's (used to be mine) 92 Airex shift cable bird caged (broken) and it would not shift. The cable was no longer available from ford. We replaced it with a marine shift cable, and all was fine. Look under the coach and see if the shift lever is moving.

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Old 06-07-2011, 01:39 PM   #3
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My 1994 Chevy 1/2-ton does something similar to that when it has sat for weeks on end.

What happens is that I turn the key, it fires right up. I don't do the warm up thing too long and just put it in gear. There is a like a 5 to 10 second delay before the truck moves.

What I'm guessing is that tranny fluid drains out of the gearbox/clutch assembly somewhat during the long layoff. When there is enough fluid (and thus pressure), it THEN drives the gears and the truck moves.

I'm guessing that you may be low on fluid.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:40 PM   #4
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Most likely the fluid has drained out of the torque converter and overfilled the pan causing it to foam and come out the dipstick. This will rectify itself by restarting and let it idle for 5 to 10 minutes then check the fluid level and if full try to move it.

However if the fluid is milky then the cooler in the radiator has failed and the transmission will need overhauled. There is also the possibility that a valve has stuck in the transmission valve body, which may free itself or it may need attention by a technician.

It is best to never let a vehicle sit for more than a month at a time. Driving 10 to 15 miles once a month keeps the fluids circulated throughout the respective components and keeps seals lubricated so they don't fail 100 miles after you begin your next long RV trip. Also it is a very good idea to run the A/C while you are doing your monthly drive even in the cold of winter as this will circulate the oil and keep the compressor from developing a leak. Many people will start the engine and let the coach sit just to keep the batteries charged, but this is not enough. It needs to be driven and will give you much better service if you follow this advice.

Good Luck and hope this does help.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:46 PM   #5
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Not saying this is your problem but I have seen a bad filter cause problems. Wonder if yours got hard from sitting up and is not allowing fluid to pass. Sure that others may have some additional ideas.
Good luck
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:24 PM   #6
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Don't know what kind of MH you have or transmission but if you have a park brake on the trans., it will need time to gain some pressure before it will release. Had this issue with a '95 Winny, but it would eventually release into reverse (it was parked in storage). Never could get by the delay even though it was random.

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Old 06-07-2011, 02:57 PM   #7
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As I recall the parking break is a set of brake shoes around the drive shaft that sometime freeze up. You want to verify if the emergency brake is off.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:06 AM   #8
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Wondering, does the engine just freewheel like it's in neutrel or does it act like it's straining against the brakes being on? If it's the latter check the e-brake first.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:13 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by RJay View Post
As I recall the parking break is a set of brake shoes around the drive shaft that sometime freeze up. You want to verify if the emergency brake is off.
RJay is right. There is a a set of shoes and a reservior here. Check the fluid level also.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:46 PM   #10
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Just an add on to Automch's advice; check your trans dipstick to find out if the fluid is to be checked in park or neutral( should be printed on the stick) . Then idle for ten min in that possisson, then move shifter multiple times from rev to d to see if the fluid picks up, there should be a noticable drop in engine rpm when the torque convertor fills and loads up against the trans.
How is the fluid color/smell. If its black/or smells burnt, could be a real issue. $$$$
Hope that isn't the problem . Keep us posted.

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