RV Antifreeze Wont Pump Through System?

[SteveZ494]

I have a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder that I'm winterizing for the first time. I should note we were camping last weekend (almost 70 degrees in Western New York) and the water system worked fine.

I started by draining the fresh water and hot water tanks. After which I added about 7 gallons of RV antifreeze to the fresh tank and switched on the water pump. However, I get nothing out of any facet. Not sputtering, no any air; nothing. I added a few more gallons and visualized that the antifreeze level in the tank was above the level of the pump intake, but still the same effect. The water lines I can visualize (going towards the hot water heater) all appear charged with antifreeze, but for some reason I cannot get the antifreeze to pump through any facet.

Any ideas? I'm perplexed.

[free-to-roam]

unless you have a water heater by-pass valve, and, it is configured properly, you will be pumping all of your product into the water heater, and, nothing will show up anywhere else until the heater gets filled...
Everyone is different, but when e winterized, we always used a blow-out with air, did not leave a nasty taste in the spring, and a whole lot cheaper, never did have a problem with freeze ip, and used the blow out system for 20 years or more...Let us know what you find...
have fun...

[regvett]

Also if you have a water filter you need to remove it or it will remove the coloring in the antifreeze.

["007"]

Here are some instructions on winterizing. Pictures of by-pass valves to by-pass WH.
need to follow line out of fresh water tank to pump you may have a valve that needs to be opened.
Also close all of the faucets that you opened to drain water to low point drains and close low point drains.
You also have to close valve that you use when only using the fresh water as when you use without city water supply.
Welcome to irv2.

[CLIFFTALL]

Here is a link to your owners manual. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservi...OUNDER_GAS.pdf

It will help some but they are sometimes too generic.
You can also call FW to have them email your plumbing , electrical and furnace diagrams. 800-322-8216.

Cliff

[SteveZ494]

Thanks for the ideas. I DO have the hot water bypass valve position so to bypass the hot water heater. All facets are closed. Low point drains are closed. Water filter has no cartridge in it, however is tightly closed. (No body local had the bypass plate, so I know I'm filling up that canister.)

007 - I don't believe I have any value that switching between city water and water tank. I've drawn water from both sources without having to change any valves.

Thanks Clifftall for the link. I do have a rather general owners manual but I'll check out the link and perhaps take your advise to call for more detailed manuals.

I thought about just blowing out the lines since I have a compressor and I'm TOTALLY wishing I had at this point. <grin>

Ok..........still don't think we've got the answer yet. <sigh>

[genesimmons]

it might be that 7 gallons is not enough when trying to winterize through the main water tank

[CLIFFTALL]

Originally Posted by SteveZ494

007 - I don't believe I have any value that switching between city water and water tank. I've drawn water from both sources without having to change any valves.

You do have this valve. On my 08 , it's in the wet service bay where you hook up the fresh water hose. Look at page 07-8 in the manual link I gave you and see the lever marked by-pass.

Cliff

[SteveZ494]

Hmmmm. Ok..........yes...........I've used this to fill the water tank from this city water intake. However, I've never had to move this value to have the system DRAW water from the water tank (vs a city water source.)

Am I perhaps missing something here?

[CLIFFTALL]

Originally Posted by SteveZ494

Hmmmm. Ok..........yes...........I've used this to fill the water tank from this city water intake. However, I've never had to move this value to have the system DRAW water from the water tank (vs a city water source.)

Am I perhaps missing something here?

It's only used to fill the tank.

Cliff

[NLOVNIT]

I realize it's kind of a moot point now (save these hints for next year), but you shouldn't use any more than 5 gallons of the pink stuff to winterize, even if you've got all the extra appliances to do. We've got a fridge with an icemaker & a washer & it takes us 4-4.5 gallons. You don't put the antifreeze in the fresh tank (it'll take forever to get it flushed out of there come spring). Instead you disconnect the inlet hose to the pump & shove it in the bottle of antifreeze. This way you're not even involving the fresh tank & you'll spend a lot less money on antifreeze.

Purchase a winterizing kit (available at any RV part supplier) & it'll save you having to unhook the inlet hose next time.

We also put an empty water bottle in the filter cartridge holder (after taking out the filter). It takes up space so we don't use as much of the pink stuff filling it - not that it's all that much.

Lori-

[CLIFFTALL]

I have been trying to assist here but I am truly at a loss as I live in Fl. and have never winterized , however I always thought that you use this to " suck" up the pink stuff.



Cliff

[NLOVNIT]

That's a winterizing kit & will suck up the pink stuff (when the valves are turned the correct way). Sans that, however, one can disconnect the pump inlet hose & get the same results.

Lori-

P.S. Way to rub it in Cliff. You know it spit snow here today.

[CLIFFTALL]

Originally Posted by NLOVNIT

That's a winterizing kit & will suck up the pink stuff (when the valves are turned the correct way). Sans that, however, one can disconnect the pump inlet hose & get the same results.

Lori-

Now. That's experience. I would follow Lori's advice. Those Ohio girls know a thing or two about winterizing.