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Old 06-23-2015, 09:19 PM   #1
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RV ELECTRICAL PLUG at home?

After fighting adapters and GFI recepticals, I am considering installing 50 amp rv box on side of garage sticks and bricks residence. That way It will have a dedicated circuit. Who has done this and what should I be aware of? Pros, Cons? Rough idea of cost? Permit required?
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:25 PM   #2
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After reading many horror stories about improper installs, I would say make sure that the electrician knows that it is for an RV. Don't assume that he will know there are differences between that and a standard connection such as a dryer or electric stove. And even then I would first check it with a meter before using it.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:28 PM   #3
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I had a 30 amp outlet put in my garage. Don't remember the exact cost since it was part of some other electrical work done. I can't store my coach at home. the 30 amps gives me enough power to run one AC unit which is enough to keep the coach cool and run what ever else we need while we load up or clean up. Glad I had the outlet put in. Sure is handy.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:43 AM   #4
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Here is a web site with how to do it and what you will need...

RV Electric

I installed a 50 amp outlet at home for the coach, works great....

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Old 06-24-2015, 08:56 AM   #5
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Here is a web site with how to do it and what you will need...

RV Electric

I installed a 50 amp outlet at home for the coach, works great....

Dave
Great link, dj. I didn't know that 30A was 110V, and now that I do, I'm going to change the outlet from standard home outlet to 30A in a box.

Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:57 AM   #6
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You'll have to make sure you have that capacity in your electrical panel. My 30A service would have cost me about $175 with me getting the pedestal box and wire. I got by cheaper by doing the grunt work myself, leaving the electrician to just make the connection and stamp his OK on the job. If you hire an electrician, I agree that you should make sure he is familiar with the system you need.
Having service at home is great - you can keep the system charged, work inside with heat or AC, troubleshoot, etc.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:09 AM   #7
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The 50 amp 4 wire service is a no-brainer because it is an electrical standard 220 volt connection (2 hots, a neutral and a ground). It is the 30 amp 3 wire connection that is confusing for some because on a 3 prong dryer or welder connection it is 2 hots (for 220 volts) and a ground whilst for an RV it is one hot (for 110 volts) one neutral and one ground.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:16 AM   #8
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I have a 30 and a 50 - got an electrician friend to complete the hook up to a breaker in my shop. And, YES, the electrician MUST follow the proper wiring for RV or it could damage a lot of stuff (a friend did that very thing)
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:19 AM   #9
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After reading many horror stories about improper installs, I would say make sure that the electrician knows that it is for an RV. Don't assume that he will know there are differences between that and a standard connection such as a dryer or electric stove. And even then I would first check it with a meter before using it.

Best advice you'll ever get. If an electrician configures it as a residential 50amp 220vac dryer/oven outlet instead of a 150amp 120vac outlet & you plug in your coach, you'll FRY 🔥 much of your very expensive electrical & electronic equipment.

If mine, the first thing I would buy to fully protect my new baby from ALL electrical hookups wherever I am is a Progressive Industries HW50c.

Recently, on another iRV2 forum, someone was overnight visiting a friend. He plugged into his garage outlet. Neither he or his friend knew that you don't plug a coach into a 220vac outlet used for welding! Expensive lesson.

So, two cautions: 1. RVs don't like 220vac residential wiring; & 2. Protect it with a PI unit.


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Old 06-24-2015, 09:20 AM   #10
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Great link, dj. I didn't know that 30A was 110V, and now that I do, I'm going to change the outlet from standard home outlet to 30A in a box.

Thanks.
The breaker protects the wire as well. Typical 15 amp circuits in a house use 14 gauge wire. To up grade to 30A circuit (receptacle and breaker) - the wire will need to be upgraded as well to 10 or 8 gauge depending or length of wire (25 or 50 feet).

If you are only changing out the outlet, why bother? Use the 30A to 15A adapter on the end of your cord.

My thoughts,
Brian
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:29 AM   #11
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The breaker protects the wire as well. Typical 15 amp circuits in a house use 14 gauge wire. To up grade to 30A circuit (receptacle and breaker) - the wire will need to be upgraded as well to 10 or 8 gauge depending or length of wire (25 or 50 feet).

If you are only changing out the outlet, why bother? Use the 30A to 15A adapter on the end of your cord.

My thoughts,
Brian
The wire from the sub-panel to my outlet is 10Ga, but I didn't think it through enough. Wire from main panel is probably 12, and can't be changed. Looks like I continue using the adapter.

thanks!
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:37 AM   #12
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After reading many horror stories about improper installs, I would say make sure that the electrician knows that it is for an RV. Don't assume that he will know there are differences between that and a standard connection such as a dryer or electric stove. And even then I would first check it with a meter before using it.
powderman
A 50A RV receptacle is the same as , (and is wired exactly the same as), a residential or commercial or industrial 50A receptacle.
However a 30A RV receptacle MUST be wired to provide ONLY 120VAC ... whereas 30A dryer or electric stove, (or welder), receptacles are usually wired to provide 240VAC.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:38 AM   #13
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The wire from the sub-panel to my outlet is 10Ga, but I didn't think it through enough. Wire from main panel is probably 12, and can't be changed. Looks like I continue using the adapter.

thanks!
Since you have a sub-panel, what is the rating for it, i.e. what is the size of the breaker in the main panel that feeds it? Chances are that it is not fed with 12 gauge wire and it could have the ability for you to uprate the outlet that you are considering. For example, if you have a 30 amp sub-panel (which is small), it is probably fed with 10 gauge wire and if you don't have a large load on it, you should be ok.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:38 AM   #14
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Best advice you'll ever get. If an electrician configures it as a residential 50amp 220vac dryer/oven outlet instead of a 150amp 120vac outlet & you plug in your coach, you'll FRY �� much of your very expensive electrical & electronic equipment.
I haven't looked at the connectors in a while, but isn't the standard 50A RV outlet a 50A 220/240 connector? That connector has 4 prongs, allowing the RV to get 2 x 50A of 120V out of it...

I'd think the danger would be plugging the RV into a 240V 30A/50A "dryer" outlet with 3 prongs, which might be confused for a 120V 30A RV outlet.
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