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Old 06-12-2015, 09:09 AM   #15
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You could have a 4L80 trans or a turbo 400 How many gears on the indicator. Get the trans hot and ck fluid level in park when running may be low on fluid. Thats where you start. The genrerator wont crank unless you have good batteries. Get some new batteries at walmart there about the cheapest. You're going to have to start with the basics.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:22 AM   #16
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I'm not sure. I'll go check here in a minute. I know I have park neutral overdrive drive 1 2 and I think that's all on my tree. I'll go double check here in a minute. I just got back from Lowes and got that roof coating. I'll come back with a later post about it and how it's holding up. It's not bad on price for 85.00 per 5 gallon bucket. Which should be way more than plenty enough for me to coat it to the thickness I want it to be.

I'm also going to go with 1/4 inch OSB board instead of regular 1/4 pine plywood. Even the oak has become more expensive since I last looked at it last week. Either that or I was looking at the wrong sheeting while I was online. I can get the 1/4 inch 4x8 OSB for just under 6 dollars per sheet compared to being charged 22 dollars per sheet for standard plywood. As long as it's sealed out to the old EPDM termination bar on the sides and about 3-4 inches past the front and rear fiberglass overlaps I don't see a problem with any swelling of the OSB. Plus it's a little more forgiving in terms of flexibility so it should hold up well enough.

As far as the batteries go, that's something my girlfriend and I were just talking about before you posted. On the next payday we're going to invest in some new batteries so we don't have to keep jumping it. Hopefully I'll get all the batteries hooked up proper as well.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:22 PM   #17
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OK so a quick response to dsr's question to help me with my transmission.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:28 PM   #18
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And as far as my tire concerns goes. This is the only inflation information on the sidewalls for all 6 tires. I flipped the image upside down so that it could be read without tilting your heads. :sly: but as you can see, it seems to be under inflated? I'm not sure. I found the sticker for the tire pressures next to the drivers seat mounted on the wall and it all says 70. It really doesn't look right to me though. It looks like too much drag on the road and is going to suck down more gas this way and wear the tires out faster. It would seem so to me but I'm not an RV expert here.

The tires are no name brand tires. Just general tires so the information listed for the name brand tires are of no use to me.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:33 PM   #19
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I looked at the master link that was given to me but I'm not to familiar with wiring diagrams and I didn't see one that looked anything like how I need to get my batteries wired up. So if someone can take a look at the pictures and tell me what I need to do to fix this problem with the chassis battery not being hooked up that would be great so that I'm not having to jump from the house batteries every time I need to start the engine.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:35 PM   #20
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:36 PM   #21
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Sorry for having to post so often. I am on the mobile application and I don't know how to put more than one picture at a time. But this should be the last one until I have any more questions.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:32 PM   #22
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The top battery looks like your chassis battery and its missing the ground cable to the chassis frame, people would disconnect the ground cable while in storage to save battery charge.
Battery looks fairly new so if you find ground cable hook up on that bare negative post on battery. I see a ground cable on that center frame between batteries if you trace out may have a loose end that needs to go to your chassis bare neg post.
With shore line plugged in take a reading with your volt meter and see if you are getting a charge of about 13.9 on meter.
Your house batteries maybe OK check the wiring terminals for corrosion and clean up if there is some than spray with the red battery terminal paint for protection.
Do cleaning if necessary one term post at a time Also disconnect the ground cable of the battery your cleaning so no voltage spikes feed to your control boards or run the risk of burning out the control board.
Anytime you need to change a battery disconnect the ground cable first and when installing the new battery connect the positive cables on battery first than its neg cable, to protect spikes from destroying your circuit boards..

Your tires read 110 psi measured when cold if your coach is empty inflate to at least 100 psi if the old tire can handle the added pressure.
At least you will be able to move coach. Can't read a MFG date.
Your double " D's" one is overdrive, like said before check fluids.
You may find when rolling the roof paint the rubber rolling around the roller because rubber looks dry and ready to crumble, you need to wash roof to get black off as said in one of the links I gave you.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:44 PM   #23
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That post is actually the positive terminal. The battery needs to be dusted off a bit. But it's not a problem since the terminals are clean. I didn't have much room with my tablet to take a picture of the whole battery system so I just broke it down into 3 parts. It looks to me like all the grounds are connected to the chassis with a bolt and washer on that center utility piece just under the new radiator fan. I think that it's more clearly visible in the first or second picture.
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Old 06-12-2015, 06:00 PM   #24
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Like I said disconnect the neg grounds before hooking up pos cables you may have a battery switch breaker that will disconnect the pos leads.
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Old 06-12-2015, 07:49 PM   #25
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I'm asking more along the lines of where that positive lead is located so that I can reattach it to the engine battery. It seems to be missing(?) And I see 3 negs on each house battery and 3 pos on each of the same but only the couple negs on the engine battery. Sorry if there was any confusion.
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Old 06-13-2015, 03:09 AM   #26
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I see the pos cable missing, you have to dig into the cables, you may only have one pos cable feeding to a distribution panel feeding other locations.
Some thing like this:


Unusual the battery pos disconnected you have to trace your cables has to be a loose pos some place.
Most cables will be pos red and neg black as far as how many its up to MFG, CHASSIS battery one ground to frame and other to fuse buss location.
I gave you that link to use this is the result for 1994 FLEETWOOD CHASSIS BATTERY CABLES.
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:12 AM   #27
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What you do, is take 1 cable off the left lower battery + post ( pick the one that reachs the top battery).

Now with the cable off and taped up, turn the key. If you get nothing, you have found the engine battery + cable.

Put it on the top battery + post. It may still not crank, because that battery is dead, but at least you got the cables right.

If that works out, get a Wal-Mart battery, the same size, to replace it.

Now it should start.

While your looking at battery cables, see if there is one laying loose, could be the generator cable.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:05 AM   #28
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Awesome thanks, I actually didn't think of doing that. That makes a lot more sense then trying to look at wire diagrams online that don't look anything like how it's setup now.
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