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Old 06-13-2015, 12:29 PM   #29
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The cables on lower batteries should stay where they are the diagrams will show you, you have two different battery systems and they are not connected together other than the ground cables to chassis frame.
Read this you will see what I mean. If you do not want to read the links you will just find yourself in a deeper hole, the info is there just need to follow.
First diagram shows your house battery system you see no chassis battery.
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Old 06-13-2015, 02:15 PM   #30
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I'm not to sure what you are trying to show with all the graphs and pictures, BUT, the OP has a battery with NO positive cable on it.

What purpose would that battery serve?

The only explanation, would be that someone moved one of the cables ( possibly the starter wire ), from the upper battery, to the lower set. That puts everything on 1 battery bank.

I say set, because I see a cable, running from + post of one lower battery to the + post of the other lower battery. That, makes sense, as a house bank.

I am trying to help him, separate the systems.
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Old 06-13-2015, 02:36 PM   #31
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Yes, exactly. Sorry I think I may have asked my question improperly and not getting the answer I was hoping for. I wasn't saying the diagrams were useless or anything. They will serve their purpose, after I figured out where my starter/chassis positive is at. Then I can wire the batteries accordingly to the diagrams after I located it.

I'm sorry for all the mix ups.
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:13 PM   #32
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Here is a thread with same type old battery set up you have and pictures of battery cabling.
Find your starter and trace back to where ever it goes and hook cable to the pos of starter battery.
You will have a starter relay in the path to pos battery post when done.
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:03 PM   #33
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Thank you.

I've started the placement of the 1/4 OSB on my roof today. I'm actually surprised that I didn't have to remove anything other than the old, rotten rubber membrane. The only thing between the membrane and the roof frame is 3 sheets of veneer. So that's making doing the job easier. All I've had to do is move the air conditioners and vents, fans blah blah blah. Sweep and I have a clean area to just screw down the OSB straight to the metal roof supports. At a stand still right now to charge my battery for my drill. Other than for that it's looking real nice right now.
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:44 PM   #34
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Good for you the weather is dry, hope your taking pictures people love to see rebuilds and progress being made.
You will have something when done and knowledge of your MH.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:54 PM   #35
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I have a few. There were a couple times that I forgot to bring my tablet with me to take pictures. But I managed to get the whole roof cleaned up and all the old rubber off and all the old dried out/rotten veneer off the roof and all the OSB down in one shot today. I was taking more video more than pictures but I can take still shots from the video I've started making. Although the video tutorial I was making didn't go as I planned due to me accidentally leaving my tablet at the house after I came back to recharge my cordless power tool battery pack. I'll give a run down of how I did it to help other class A owners to be able to do this on their own if they wish to do so. The only videos I've seen on YouTube of how to do a roof are class C and utility trailers. There was one person I seen that put up a video of a class A roof but he never finished his project so it's not very in depth. It's mostly just him babbling for 20 minutes... and no one likes to watch that.

In the meantime until I'm able to compile all the videos into one, here are some pictures of the work. (Still need to cut out 3 vent holes tomorrow and caulk up the screws and cut off the edges then it's ready for sealing up! )
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:01 PM   #36
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The only tools I've needed to do this are:

Cordless drill
Cordless skill saw
Flat bar
Hammer
1-5/8" screws (attaches wood to metal 100ct per box at Lowe's)
Tape measure
Stiff 3" putty knife
Pen
13mm socket
Ratchet
Long reach philips head screw driver
Wire cutters/stripper

That's about all I've needed. I was thinking of buying some adhesive but there's nothing for the adhesive to attach to since it'll eat up the Styrofoam.
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:47 AM   #37
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You have a 4L80 transmision. Make sure you ck level ht in park.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:08 PM   #38
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Thanks. That will give me something to do while I wait for my elastomeric roof coating to dry and cure some.

Which by the way seems to be doing well so far as far as the interior temp is concerned. On it's first coat, it's already dropped from 105 down to an even 90. And that was just on a real thin coat that I let get tacky so that I could slather on a thicker second coat. I'm probably going to guess that it will at least cool down to the outside temp by the time I have to go back.

Progress is going great so far with me being the only one doing the whole job. I'm surprised at how it's turning out for my first time doing the roof of an RV.
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:30 PM   #39
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OK so I did what twin suggested and I come up dead in the water just scratching my head. I was able to trace back one pos wire back to a relay in my control panel to the "coach chassis" relay. I have 4 relays in there and only 2 of them are marked "coach chassis" and 2 other pos wires run to the back of the chassis. I'm assuming one for my gen and the other for my jacks.

I used my volt meter to get a DC rating of all my batteries, the top left has a voltage of 10.6 and the lower 2 are holding at the same at 6.3. Which obviously I need to just buy new ones but at the moment I'm strapped on cash.

Anyways, back on topic before my mind wanders any more. I took one lead off at a time and attached it to the open pos on the upper battery, went into the cab, turned the key and got no response from any wire being moved. The only response I was able to get was with the wired exactly how they are now, with all the load of the interior DC lights and the starting of the engine on the 2 lower batteries. It doesn't make sense to me that there would be an open pos on a battery. I can't seem to figure this out. I have been trying to learn more about how car/marine/solar batteries work in a series as banks to maybe get a handle on how it's set up right now. My problem is that I'm just not understanding how it's all currently set up and why. I'm not sure how else to explain it. Is there a factory engine bay/compartment wire schematic available for my rv? Or any information available on my rv about the relays and how they interact with each other so I can just unhook all of the batteries and rewire it proper?
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Old 06-18-2015, 05:13 PM   #40
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You could try to input "SEARCH" on one of the links I provide your year coach and model and engine start to see if it will feed you some diagrams to follow.
Maybe just input the starter circuit itself.
Your reading similar voltages I was on a DP I had to rewire the battery systems.
Auto stores sell chassis wiring books and chassis parts that may help for your year chassis I use to have one for the Ford chassis' of old.
This is what I came up with if its a Chev P30.
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:21 AM   #41
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Thanks. I refined my searches and found a lot of diagrams that are specific to the questions I had. I ended up just looking up information for a 1992 instead of my year of 1994 and found a plethora of information for OEM electrical schematics that look identical to my motorhome. The 2 year difference shouldn't be an issue. If it becomes one then I can adjust accordingly.

By the way the re-roof I did went wonderfully! It hasn't rained yet but it's now all one "solid" piece. The front cap and rear cap is all interconnected with the rest of the roof and I eliminated the need for the old termination bars entirely. Just hoping for some rain to make sure it's watertight.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:07 AM   #42
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It was rumored years ago that some libraries stock auto manuals. Might be with investigating to save a couple of $$


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