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Old 06-11-2015, 08:27 PM   #1
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Question rv newbie

Hello,

I'm new to owning an rv and I got myself a "fixer upper" it's a 32 foot 1994 Fleetwood Coronado. I have several questions that may seem basic to everyone here but are not in my area of knowledge. So I'm sorry if I bounce around as I think of things that need to be done that I don't know how to do or where to start if it's something I know I can do once I figure out the source of the problem.

I will be living in it full time with my girlfriend and her toddler.

The motorhome came with a big orange folder of information from the manufacturer. But the only thing that I haven't seen is a chassis manual. The tires seem a little bit low to me so one thing that I need to know is what the PSI of my tires should be. Normally it would say the PSI rating on the sidewalls of the tire but all mine say are "max psi is 110 under load."

Right now my tires are at 70 PSI. Do I need to add more or is it fine there at 70?

The previous owner of the RV never plugged it into shore power and told me he's unsure if it's safe to do so or not.

Also, I have no idea what kind of transmission my motorhome has and the reverse works.... When it wants to. One day it will catch and go into reverse. Other days, it will feel like it is catching but when I give it gas it goes no where. I've read that is a very common problem for transmissions that are on a 454 engine. How much would the fix for that be at a shop? I know different shops have different rates but I'm looking for an average rate so I know what to expect when I take it somewhere to get fixed or do it myself.

Is there anyway I can do a check before plugging it into shore power? Or do I just plug it into shore power and flip the breakers on and hope for the best?

To my knowledge the LP system isn't working (from what I was told by previous owner) how would I go about checking the LP system? The gauge on the tank says empty but I don't want to spend the money to fill it and find out that it has a leak.

Since neither the LP or shore power systems have been tested, it should go without saying that I'm not sure if the fridge and air conditioners work or not.

I would try running the generator but neither the manual start button works or the remote in the cab works. Maybe I'm lacking the amount of fuel needed to get it to the feeder line? I hear no sounds at all when I press the button. It's a onan 7kw generator.

How would I go about trying to get that started up?

I'm on a limited budget and cannot afford the outrageous prices that rv repair shops charge just to look at something. I swear it's a scam because I've never heard of any other kind of a shop that charges someone 200-500 dollars just to look at something without even doing any work to fix a/the problem/s.

The main reason the previous owner has not hooked up the shore power is because the roof has a major leak in it because a giant 4 1/2 foot section of the rubber membrane has been ripped off. I plan on redoing the roof myself and saving a ton of money since it's unfathomable for myself or anyone else to have to pay 800+ on super cheap luan 1/4 inch 4x8 plywood when I can pick up 8 or 9 sheets of it at Lowes for 11$ a sheet for a sturdier pine plywood of the same thickness and size.

The only issue that I'm debating over is a new membrane or using elastiometric roof covering that you roll on like a paint. I guess that it would be similar to the stuff that the rvarmor company sprays onto the roof at 220 per foot. Which also seems to be a problem because a 1 foot section at 30 feet long will cost me 6,600 dollars and the width of my roof is just a little over 8 foot wide. It would be impractical to spend almost 50,000 dollars on a roof when if I had that much money I could use to put a down payment on a brand new 2015 motorhome.

Anyways, I'm rambling now over how mind blowing the costs are for simple repairs... My main point was that if it would be OK to use that stuff in place of anything else at a lower cost option. It's about 75 dollars for a 5 gallon bucket of it at Lowes. Says on the bucket that it's OK and safe to use on RVs. I just want a second opinion from people who have owned RVs for a lot longer and have more experience in it before I roll out a bunch of silicone sealant/sun reflectant over my roof.

So with that being said, I have been looking all over the internet on how to fix/solve/test these problems and to no avail, I've come to dead ends more times than I can count because it seems that people just throw money at the problem they have and let someone else deal with it. I'm more of a do it yourselfer. I've even went to another forum a while ago but it seems to be dead and no one posts there, it's had one reply with no help besides "post a picture for me to see and good luck."

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:52 PM   #2
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Welcome to irv2 Mark.
Here is a link that can get many answers for you. You can input your question in search.
Here is the master link where that one came from.
Your tires I think were Goodyear originally not sure what you have now but you maybe under inflated. You need tire inflation tables for tires but for now sidewall pressure will or a sticky on wall near drivers seat will have MFG's inflation for tires.
The shore power if you have 110 outlet some where at least that will help give you a start and will operate your converter if batteries are short which you can remove the battery ground cable to get 12v control boards working in coach appliances.
The fridge will work off the electric elements to cool that down, does not sound like you have LP gas to test furnace but can test the operation with out the heat.
When you do get LP operate your gas stove to get most of the air out of lines and other appliances will have to fire a few times to get air out of lines before they will operate on LP.
Gen will start of your house batteries if they are good or the 12v converter.
Your roof maybe the rubber roof of old or a sheet metal roof they used during that time period on some coach's.
Here is some information on roof's.
In my signature below are links to many more that may help you and this link will help you get around irv2.
Looking at that roof picture below rubber looks like on its last legs, new roof needed. ==== More on roof's.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:11 PM   #3
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Thank you. I will check those links out shortly. As for everything else you've mentioned I wouldn't be able to run the inverter until I replace all 3 batteries in the motorhome. I'm currently jumping it from my girlfriends car to get it started.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:12 PM   #4
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Exterior
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:13 PM   #5
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Roof damage
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:14 PM   #6
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I'll get some more pictures tomorrow morning so that everyone here will be able to better help me. It's a bit late right now to be taking pictures at 10pm.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:21 PM   #7
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Oh, I was wondering where I could find some new luggage compartment locks at for a decent price? I have all the keys to the motorhome except for the luggage compartments. The driver side I can open up with a screwdriver but I'm going to need to drill out all 4 locks so that I can have secure access to them besides having to mcguyver them open and closed.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:29 PM   #8
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Your converter does not need batteries just the 110 from house disconnect the battery ground cable until you can check them out, maybe toast.
RV Upgrades or CW, even E Bay for parts.
I would put a tarp over roof for now do not need water damage inside coach.
I do not need any more pictures links I gave you will point out what problems you may have. If you have cover you may be able to do roof yourself as some others have done, owning a motor home you have to be a DIY type of person.
Some locks you can reverse the key and lock housing will come out of lock latch.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:46 PM   #9
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You have a lot to read I would get roof covered and 110 into coach so you can use lights and go from there.
Take your time winter is a ways off.
As far as trans and motor need to check oil levels maybe get a 12v battery charger on your chassis battery and see if it will hold a charge than maybe try on the house batteries. Any idea how old they may be?
When ever you work on batteries hook up the battery positive cable's first than your negative cable, either the chassis or house batteries.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:59 PM   #10
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I have no idea. I haven't really checked them out because that's the least of my worries at this point. I was just told that they dont hold a charge and I can't start the RV on its own power. The positive lead to the chassis battery seems to be missing or mislocated. The only batteries connected right now are the 2 home batteries that won't hold a charge. I've tried letting the RV run and charge the batteries but I'm still left using jumper cables to get it running, even with the aux start switch being pressed and key turned.

I'm hoping to get the roof done in the next couples of days before it rains again. Hopefully I can get the new plywood and the elastimetric coating early enough in the day to knock out the project in a day. I currently have a tarp over that section of my roof. There has been some water damage on the inside but it's been limited to only that section and the forward cabin next to the driver's side window. I've already ripped out the cabinets that were affected. I'll reline the ceiling once I have the roof completed. No point doing anymore to the interior until the roof is fixed or I'll forever be replacing the ceiling and walls. Floors have been replaced by a laminate so carpet isn't an issue.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:59 PM   #11
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Reading your first post again your learning pretty fast as to dealers or repair shops doing work for you, you say you can do roof yourself that's a plus and every thing else will be a plus once your done fixing what needs it.
Good luck in your new lifestyle.
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:21 PM   #12
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Thank you. I'm looking forward to enjoying it. I would love to get solar setup one day and go "boondocking" as everyone calls it. That's why I'm here asking questions, to make sure it's enjoyable for everyone (and to make sure that I don't fudge anything up.)
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:16 AM   #13
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Well, Dude, looks like you bit off a big chunk of this. I think roof is priority one. You are one right track for a temp solution. You will want to cover that temp roof with EPDM someday. For your size coach the EPDM shouldn't be much over $600.

It kinda looks like you are gonna need batteries. Costco and Sam's have good battery deals for both engine and coach batteries. If you are going to be tied to shore power, you don't need the coach batteries. You may also get some decent engine batteries at O 'Riely or AutoZone - just make sure they are new, not several years old.

Checking out LP should be easy. Soapy water on all couplings will show a leak. Stoves are just flares on the end of the pipe.

I spent my college career living in a 1940's vintage travel trailer. It wasn't glamorous, but it can be done. In fact, if somebody said I could do it again, I'd be first in line. Good luck and hope to see ya down the road.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:52 AM   #14
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For anyone confused about what type of roof coating I was asking about, this is it.

http://www.gardner-gibson.com/produc...jack-5530-1-30

It say's the list of applicable applications for it's use on the front of the bucket and that it's good for up to 10 years on those applications. I was going to "paint" it out about 2 or 3 coats to try and get at least 30-60 mil in thickness. Which seems like a bit much but I wouldn't ever have to worry about a tree limb snagging and tearing anything. I was going to look at getting the 700 series of that but upon reading more about it, the 700 series isn't waterproof.

As far as batteries goes, that's going to take a while to gather the ones I need. They're a little over 100 dollars a piece for the deep cycle at it's cheapest around me and that being at Walmart.

As far as my roof goes, I'm looking for something a little cheaper than a new membrane. Ideally a new one piece EPDM membrane would be ideal if I didn't just spend all the I had on this RV but, I live in central Florida and it's starting the rainy season since summer is now here and I need to get it done before the rain destroys the interior. A tarp will hold for now but it isn't a very sound solution for the high winds in the storms here and the amount of heat that is free to pour into the RV is intolerable (105 on a "good" day). As I'm sure anyone that has lived in Florida for any length of time would tell you the same thing.
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