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Old 03-14-2013, 03:59 PM   #15
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Not sure I would suggest 3 engine starts/stops as bearings/cam would still not have oil to them that way. Most likely engine will start with 2 or 3 revolutions, then let it run verifying it shows oil pressure etc. Agree with checking Engine/Trans oil levels BEFORE starting. If it was me, I would drain the engine oil before anything and put a new oil filter on it.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:39 PM   #16
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Do not start it or drive it. The gas untreated will develope a varnish when heated by the engine. My son had a Honda Accord that had sat for a year. It started right up,ran until it got hot and then quit. It never started again. When we tore the engine down the valves, piston rings and other parts like the injectors were covered with sticky varnish. The valves had stuck and bent. I was a mechanic for 40 years and I would suggest that you have it towed to a good shop and have them drain the tank and fill with fresh gas before it is cranked, change oil and filter also.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:47 PM   #17
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Do not start it or drive it. The gas untreated will develope a varnish when heated by the engine. My son had a Honda Accord that had sat for a year. It started right up,ran until it got hot and then quit. It never started again. When we tore the engine down the valves, piston rings and other parts like the injectors were covered with sticky varnish. The valves had stuck and bent. I was a mechanic for 40 years and I would suggest that you have it towed to a good shop and have them drain the tank and fill with fresh gas before it is cranked, change oil and filter also.
This is the best advice in this thread. I have over 35 years of automotive service experience and agree with this post, it'll cost a little up front but can save a lot of heartache and expense in the end. With today's fuel formulations, two years of untreated fuel is too long to expect it to perform properly.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:10 PM   #18
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It may actually be good that it had a full tank. That can help prevent moisture and rust build up. Also, being a 2003 it should be fuel injected, which is also good.

I would put in a fresh battery and crank it over.

When my father in law died he had a 1973 Caddy sitting in his garage, with a full tank of gas. We let it sit there for four years without touching it. When we finally put a new battery in it fired right up and we drove it 165 miles home.

Also sorry for your loss.
Sorry for your lost

I agree with fastcat, but before start up I would change the oil, add fuel conditioner to remove moisture and a bottle of Marvel Oil it would help restore fuel line and pump.
My worried are more with the water line, water pump, appliance ...... And I also agree it would be a good idea to have an expert advise .
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:18 AM   #19
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Your going to sell it so you want to maximize return and minimize cost for those returns. Have you just tried charging the batteries? There are many minor and unrecognized loads on modern coaches that can discharge batteries in as little as 4 months.
I see all the good advice given but I have a moderate size boat and have had occasional scheduling problems that resulted in it sitting with 150 gallons of fuel in it for over two seasons. Without resorting to the good advice given, both engines and the gen-set have forgiven me and performed admirably.
Changing the fuel filter might be a good idea, at least have a spare on hand. Check all fluid levels and crank it over. With a little luck the oil pressure will catch up to the fuel pressure and both will be reasonable when it lights off.
An unaddressed concern for a buyer may be the age of the tires, >6 years is pretty risky in summer temperatures at highway speeds. This you do not want to remedy, let the buyer assess the value, just make sure the pressures are proper.
rhusak responded quickly and accurately, get it running and if your decision is to sell then sell it running.
May the gain of your life shared with your husband exceed the loss of his companionship.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:31 AM   #20
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An unaddressed concern for a buyer may be the age of the tires, >6 years is pretty risky in summer temperatures at highway speeds. This you do not want to remedy, let the buyer assess the value, just make sure the pressures are proper.
Normally I'd say this is wrong advice, but since it hasn't been moved for so long it might be the right thing to do. Not running the tires and not getting them hot enough to release the chemicals that keep rubber pliable will cause lots of problems.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:09 AM   #21
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Lets see, a full tank of gas sitting for 4 years would be in better condition than a Honda Accord sitting for a year that may have had about a 1/4 of a tank of gas. This is what probably accounted for the varnish on the valves. I had a 454 with carburetor engine in a motorhome that sat for 5 years with a full tank of gas (35 gals. because of dual tanks) that was driven for 50 miles with no ill effects. Since you will be moving it to a service center to have it checked out anyway, I would just drive it over since the drive would probably be a short distance. There is no sense in incurring a huge debt that you may not be able to recover because after all, you stated that the sale price is real low.
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:40 AM   #22
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Let's see, drain and refill a tank of fuel or replace an engine. I think I would drain and refill even if I had to hire a mobile repar truck to come do it.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:01 AM   #23
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Sorry for your loss, I must ask if you have relatives or grown children that could assist? I know I keep my son appraised of all our daily activities just in case something happens and I don't see the sun again. However having a full tank is good, I maintain our MH with a full tank at the beginning of the Winter and then start it every month letting it idle for 5 minutes. Hopefully you have some good trusted friends or relatives that can help rather then strangers that could take advantage of your situation. Not all are bad people but there are plenty to go around even in our RV World. My prayers that all goes your way and friends will help. Cincinnati, USAF (Ret 89)
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:19 AM   #24
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One option might be to actually siphon some of the gas from the tank and compare it to fresh fuel. Old gas that has started to oxidize looks darker and smells more varnish like. Could be a quick and easy way to assess if you have anything to worry about. Also for some of the learned ones around here, are there not fuel additives that you could put in now that would help with any potential varnish formation? Give the existing fuel a bit of boost as it were.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #25
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It should run fine...but be carefull.

You want it to crank for awhile, check the oil first, if black change it first.

If oil filter is vertical have it filled with fresh oil

Check tranny fluid level.

Next, when you put the key in turn it instantly, you want it to turn the engine before fuel pressure builds up.

If it fires turn the key OFF AT ONCE!

Wait one minute and do it again, do this about there times.

You are insuring oil pressure in all bearrings.

Now start it WITHOUT TOUCHING GAS PEDAL.

The computer will run fast idle then slow engine as it warms up, the goal is to keep engine RPM low until warmed up to insure oil everywhere it should be, this just due to long storage time.

The computer will compensate for poor fuel, it should run okay as long as there is no water in it.

If it needs a smog inspection the old gas needs to be driven out or removed, can be sold off as "lawnmower gas" if it needs to be removed, local gardeners can syphon the gas out for the gas, or they can pay you a couple bucks a gallon for it.

We use harvested fuel often, usually when someone puts gas in the diesel tank, converter and computer does not like it but the lawnmower does not care.

You do not want to start/stop the engine. This action will not allow the oil pump to pick up oil fast enough and cause more starvation. If you want to build oil pressure before the engine starts, hold the gas pedal to the floor and then crank the engine. The PCM will go into a flooded engine mode and not cycle the fuel injectors. Crank the engine for 5-10 seconds and this will be more than enough time for the oil to prime. 5 seconds would likely be more than enough. I know this is true with Ford chassis and would have to imagine that this would be true with GM chassis also.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:15 PM   #26
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I have used PRI-G on stale gas and I think it worked well.
(Like other magic in a bottle, I really don't know if I would have had a problem with the gas if I didn't use it)
Anyway, I agree with a local Mobile RV Repair to help you. Check/change battery, Oil and filter change can't hurt. Then mix more than enough PRI-G for your tank size with a gallon of fresh fuel and add to the tank and run it...

Here is an article on PRI-G .. PRI-G is available at Camping World and West Marine. I now use their PRI-D in my diesel tank.
http://www.priproducts.com/pdfs/Flye...20CONSUMER.pdf

Hope this helps...
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:35 AM   #27
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I really appreciate all the help. Right now the estate lawyer holds the keys to the RV. I was hoping to get them back to try to get it running but so far now luck. I assume they just want to get rid of it. I did order an additive for the gas tank and have a new oil filter and oil ready. My stepson says he will come over and help as soon as they give me some go ahead.
We only made one long trip and other than that just short trips around town. It only has 3200 miles on the odometer.
From what I can understand they had an offer for $18,000 as it sits. They are trying to force a quick sale on me.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:51 AM   #28
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Need to do some research, get the rig appraised. Just a quick look in Indiana listings, depending on exact model and equipment, prices are considerably above the $18,000. Lists usually in mid 30's to upper 40's.

Lowest I saw was: 2003 Coachmen Aurora 3610 | Whiteland, Indiana | Mayes Remarketing
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