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Old 06-12-2018, 12:29 PM   #29
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Wow!!! Nobody mentioned a pull thru. If possible a pull thru would be my choice.


As far as concrete strength is concerned, 3000lb concrete is irrelevant when talking about cracking. Control joints are all that will effect weather or where it cracks. I would recommend not using fiberglass reinforced concrete but rather wire mesh to stop the seperation of the slab when it does crack and it will... either directly under where proper construction joints are placed or in the ablsence of, anywhere it wants to.


Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:32 PM   #30
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Wow!!! Nobody mentioned a pull thru. If possible a pull thru would be my choice.
Yep, I wish I could have done that. My son lives in the country at an intersection. After 20 years of using an old converted small barn for his workshop and other things stored in a building that could come down with a big wind, he built a new one for everything. 80'X110' with a dividing wall down the center One half of the south half is for his motorhome and trailer. He pulls in on the west end with trailer and pulls out on the east end. @ 78' long he still has plenty of room at both ends. Full hookups inside with sewer dump and a heated floor. We have always been a little competitive, but to protect our coach from the Wisconsin winters, we go to AZ in Oct and return in May.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:17 PM   #31
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Yep, I wish I could have done that. My son lives in the country at an intersection. After 20 years of using an old converted small barn for his workshop and other things stored in a building that could come down with a big wind, he built a new one for everything. 80'X110' with a dividing wall down the center One half of the south half is for his motorhome and trailer. He pulls in on the west end with trailer and pulls out on the east end. @ 78' long he still has plenty of room at both ends. Full hookups inside with sewer dump and a heated floor. We have always been a little competitive, but to protect our coach from the Wisconsin winters, we go to AZ in Oct and return in May.
Looks like 'Crasher' wins that competition.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:48 PM   #32
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It's always easier (and safer) to pull in and back out.
Why do you believe that it is "safer" to Pull in and Back out?"
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:34 AM   #33
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One size does not fit all situations. Pulling into a street is safer than backing into the street, so backing into the garage makes sense.”..If you cannot get turned around before having to pull into the street.

If you limit the discussion to strictly getting into the garage (no obstructions outside) then pulling in is obviously easier than backing in as you can see what you are doing as you get into the obstructed garage ...especially if it’s pretty much straight in. ASSuming you have not turned the steering wheel, backing out is check for something behind, put it in reverse, and back out without turning the steering wheel.

Granted many situations are not that simple. My approach to the garage is at a 30° angle making backing in very difficult...fortunately I need the door on the side that pulling in accomplishes. In my situation and probably most, where the motorhome ends up when backing out is not as critical as when pulling into the garage so pulling in is easier.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:40 PM   #34
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Wow!!! Nobody mentioned a pull thru. If possible a pull thru would be my choice.
Did that. First RV "garage" was actually just a 48x70 roof between our barn and our covered arena in Oregon 14' clearance and angled driveway to get in/out was challenging for our 43' Ellipse w/tag, much easier with our previous 36' Tropical.

Second RV garage in Lake Havasu City AZ was 20x60 with 14x14 roll-up doors on each end. This allowed us to drive in or out from either end. However as things tend to fill up space, even that got tight. Concrete floor and driveways.

Third (and I hope last) RV Garage in Prescott AZ is in a 60x60 footprint building, the RV part of that is 36x60, insulated and heated. 14x14 doors on each end to drive thru, and 10x10 doors for the truck and boat to drive thru. I've got 50A power in the middle of the building on both sides so no matter which way I drive in, I can connect power easily without having to run it under the coach. Concrete floor, gravel drive for now. Standard 3000psi concrete, no issues with concrete, both concrete floor garages were saw cut into ~ 10' squares. Of course now with RV, truck (F250Crew cab), boat and tractor in there, even that's getting full!

With all 3 RV garages, the coach gets brought up to the house to load/unload.

You never, ever have enough space!

And FWIW I second painting lines on the concrete to guide driving in and parking.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:28 AM   #35
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Build it pull through.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:15 PM   #36
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:21 PM   #37
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We just completed are RV Port 6/2018 for a 40ft fiver. It is 40 x 30 on a 40 x 60 lot. We didn't want to go up and down steps to the patio so built a raised deck and have a mobile walk way to put in place when we are there and remove when we take off. It is a balancing act to make sure you place the poles outside the slides. We had a friend build a RV port next to his garage and forgot about his slides so could not put them out when it was parked because of the pole placement. We do get high winds in the area so had it spec'd for 30% over code for the area. We used IRP's (insulated roofing panels) keeps the RV cooler in the summer and great sound insulation as well as protection during hail storms. It also prevents bird nests as there are no nooks and crannies for them to get into vs the w-pan roof some of my neighbors have. We didn't have the option for a pull thru so back in but if the option is available pull thrus are very convenient.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:22 PM   #38
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