Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-17-2016, 07:44 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
Lightbulb S-cams rusted poor braking clunking

Last trip I felt the brake power a bit off and noticed I was getting that loud clunking noise more often.

I tackled the fronts first, this is a 2000 with less than 50,000 miles.

Shoes looked great, the main spring was badly rusted, the cams were completely rusted and not capable of turning, the pivot or hinge pins were rusted.
the cams also had flat spots.

got the part numbers from FL, called Napa had them the next day, less than $10 a wheel for the kits.

I popped the main spring removed the shoes, used a small wire wheel on a drill to clean up the the contact points on those.

Replaced the hinge pins & sleeves lubed with high temp grease.

Used wire wheel on the Scam itself, they were tight up/down in/out.
Grease the s-cam Zerks and auto adjust arm.

two new springs on that side of the shoes, next the main spring that was a bit tricky but doable with help holding things in place.

Next new cams, they DO NOT get grease on the roller bearing surface only the edges in contact with shoe.

Take a look at old & new parts.

I rolled down the RV lot a bit stopped hit the self adjusters 6 times hard.

No more noise, stops on dime.

Hardest part was the wheels, I used a hand truck to get them moved around I also used it for the brake drums.

The front drums are about 50#, the rears maybe 80#, the hand truck saved my back.

I think this greasing of the cams & other bake parts should be done on some sort of regular maintenance schedule.

Total time 90 minutes a wheel

Note on the rears the book says to lock out the emergency brake, called caging, not a big deal.
But a shop said just leave the engine running to maintain air pressure for 45 minutes or so while changing the parts out, that worked fine.
I had the sets of wheel chocks on. 4 jack stands and an extra jack when doing the rears.
2 jack stands for fronts
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0186.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	303.5 KB
ID:	116691  
__________________

__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-17-2016, 09:20 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Bigd9's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Bluegrass State
Posts: 3,263
Great write up! Thanks. But 90 minutes for each wheel? Does that include removing and installing the wheel? If so you are indeed good Shoot anymore it take me 90 minutes just to get my tools out!

I see you used a hand truck to move the tires around. I bought a truck tire dolly years ago and that is the best invention ever. I can lift, move, rotate the tire to align the holes, and slip it on easily.
Attached Images
 
__________________

__________________
Good Luck, Be Safe and Above All, Don't Forget To Have Fun
Pete
2006 Fleetwood Discovery 35H, being pushed by a 2009 Honda CRV
Bigd9 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 09:36 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
yes 90min includes taking tires off/on, I had a helper.

That tool is great, but the hand truc really wasn't bad (and I had one)
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 09:54 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Bigd9's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Bluegrass State
Posts: 3,263
What did you use to get the lug nuts off?
__________________
Good Luck, Be Safe and Above All, Don't Forget To Have Fun
Pete
2006 Fleetwood Discovery 35H, being pushed by a 2009 Honda CRV
Bigd9 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 10:03 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
33mm deep socket (off amazon)
3/4 drive 24" breaker bar with a 5' pipe extension for first turn to get loose.
I also smeared a bit of grease on the threads first, so the rest of the turns were easier.

After I finished I just made all the lugs tight with the 24" breaker bar.

I'm going to drive a few miles up the road to a truck stop and have them hit them all with an impact.
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 10:25 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
jergeod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 328
As a bus mechanic for many years using grease on brake parts is a no no. If you use anything it should have been NEVER SEIZE. Never seize will not melt as grease will, even high temp grease. Brakes get alot hotter than people think.
__________________
George & Jerri
06 GT 340TSSE
USMC VET.
jergeod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 10:27 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,051
Great work Jimbo. The first year I owned my coach I drove it to Freightliner Gaffney to get it serviced and attend Camp Freightliner. On the drive there I started experiencing the symptoms you described. The brakes seemed to be working fine but right before it came to a complete stop I would feel something give and clunk. Freightliner found rusted S Cams and the like. Freightliner in Gaffney in my opinion is very fair and honest on their labor charges. Really hard to find a shop like that. That being said it was no small task to complete that job so my hat is off to you for tackling that and getting it done. I don't have the tools or the work space to complete such a task but it's great to see owners such as yourself taking care of business. I would say you saved $1000 or more depending on which shop was doing the work and they may have cut corners where you know exactly how everything looks now. Great job!
__________________
2002 Newmar Kountry Star 3669
Freightliner 300HP Cummins
Towing 2005 Jeep Liberty & 2010 Tundra W/Remco DD
noserider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 10:29 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
Quote:
Originally Posted by jergeod View Post
As a bus mechanic for many years using grease on brake parts is a no no. If you use anything it should have been NEVER SEIZE. Never seize will not melt as grease will, even high temp grease. Brakes get alot hotter than people think.
My error, I did use high temp never seize, the grey/silver stuff
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 10:32 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
Quote:
Originally Posted by noserider View Post
I would say you saved $1000 or more depending on which shop was doing the work and they may have cut corners where you know exactly how everything looks now. Great job!
Thanks, $1,000, now I can tell my wife to pick restaurant tonite
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 01:30 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
jergeod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 328
Thumbs up great job.
__________________
George & Jerri
06 GT 340TSSE
USMC VET.
jergeod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 03:33 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 13,045
Greasing the S cam is mentioned in the maintenance schedule for my Spartan chassis. I forgot the interval now though.
With air brakes you don't need to drive it to activate the automatic slack adjusters, just pressure, (Spartan says 100# pressure) as it works on travel distance of the push-rod. Bendix Air Brake Handbook
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 03:54 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,518
Correct you don't need to drive it, I drove it few hundred yards to seat everything, remember the lugs weren't torqued to 450 at that time.

Not sure about Sparten, but everything I read and studied on U-tube said no lube
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2016, 06:10 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
FIRE UP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 4,620
Nice work Jimbo,
I did the same exact thing, a couple of years ago. I did not replace any parts due to the fact that mine were grungy and ugly but, serviceable. I did pretty much almost everything you did in cleaning things up, making sure the springs were serviceable and all other related parts. I then put a dab of grease (yes Grease, high temp stuff but, non the less, GREASE) on the specific contact points.

NO, grease was not spread all over the place, ONLY where it was important. I might add, that operation was done, like stated, two to three years and, several thousand miles ago and all is still working flawlessly.

Now, as for breaking them loose, if you're going to continue to do this kind of work, I'd invest in an outstanding tool that I and a few others have purchased on here. If you haven't heard or seen of it, it's called a Torque Multiplier. Now, that term can be applied to a couple of versions. The one I bought off Ebay is a crank type that's geared 75:1 and I can sit on my butt and, actually break free, all 10, 33MM, 450 lb. lug nuts, WITH ONE ARM!!

It's a great tool. Absolute ZERO strain in using it. If I were to use it in reverse, that is install those lug nuts with it, I could actually break the lug stud with it. But, for re-torqueing them, I purchased a 150-600 lb. Proto, 3/4" drive Torque wrench. I got that off Ebay too, for $75.00 and it also works flawlessly.

As for handling those 160 lb. tires and wheels, I use the tool that's shown above. That tire/wheel dolly is priceless in that situation.

Anyway, when it was all said and done, I re-adjusted the slack adjusters and, my brakes also stopped that 27,000 coach on a dime. And, WITH NO CLUNK.
Scott



__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
FIRE UP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 09:09 AM   #14
Member
 
corprimo's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 80
Exclamation How urgent is this?

I've had a "clunk" from front end when coming to a stop for a while now. We're heading down the "Highway" from AK to Portland in 5 days. If my problem is the S cams, do I need to tackle it before this trip or can it wait until we get down to Oregon? How hard is it to pull the brake drums - do they have to be knocked loose with a BFH?
__________________

__________________
New to us '04 Journey 36 with 330 Cat will be towing a '14 Sonic 1.4 liter turbo 6 spd. '05 Dodge 3500 Cummins, '09 Subaru Outback, plus a few other toys that help us get around in Alaska.
corprimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
rust



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winnebago Rusted Windshield Bob&Pat Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 43 12-30-2015 02:01 PM
How rusted is too rusted? Alle007 Vintage RV's 13 09-21-2015 11:28 PM
Hadley Air Horns Rusted - What To Do? Nomad Mike MH-General Discussions & Problems 27 08-31-2015 09:07 PM
S Cams Catcoach Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 11 06-22-2015 12:12 PM
shop for rusted out windshield and jacks oldpa Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 1 05-07-2014 03:59 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.